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Saturday, August 6th, 2011

I was hoping to post every day during Kirchtag, but I’m falling behind.  I’ve just been too busy soaking up the atmosphere.  More people fill the streets each day.  The entire oldtown area is filled with snack food stands and “gastgartens” that serve sit-down food.  They are packed in next to each other and any spaces in between are filled with beer stands.  Right now in Villach, you are never more than 20m from a beer, which is a good thing because it could take you a while to navigate the crowds to get there.

Speaking of crowds, I’ve never lived in a place that had a big festival going on like this. It’s incredibly convenient when you want to get home after being out at night.  A few nights ago it started to rain and we just popped back into our apartment to wait it out.  Everyone else was scrambling for umbrellas or spots under the beer tents.  The flip side is that it is also pretty difficult to get anything done in town this week.  It takes me about twice as long to walk to the grocery store because I have to make my way through crazy crowds of people (yes, the music, dancing, and beer start in the morning!).

We haven’t been able to get to our garage all week, so we left the car at Eric’s work parking lot.  The entrance to the garage technically was left open, but realistically there is a spinning ride on one side and a wurst stand on the other.  The crowds overflowing from these two make it impossible to get to.  We don’t really need to go anywhere, but I am a little disappointed that we didn’t get to use the pass for car to go in and out of the festival area.  It was quite an effort to find the right office at the townhall, explain where we lived, where our garage was, ask for a pass, and give them our license plate number – all in German.  I was pretty proud of myself, but it turned out to be unnecessary practice.

I mentioned the rides above, and I should note that these are not just little carousels for the kids, but a bunch of huge spinning and flinging things that throw you around in every direction.  They seem like a particularly bad idea for a bunch of people who just spent hours drinking beer before getting on them, but what do I know?  They all seem to be having a great time.

Many of those same people who are eating, drinking, and dancing here are dressed in traditional outfits.  I was told before the festival started that a lot of people would be, but I didn’t expect so many.  More than half the crowd is kitted out in Tracht, which is the general name for the Lederhosen, Dirndl dresses, and other types of clothes that you probably associate with the Alps.  Last week we headed to a shop and got out the credit card (this stuff is expensive!).  The clothes we bought hung in the closet for the first half of the week as we worked up the courage to go out in it.  In reality so many people are dressed up that you look a little funny if you are not.

Here we are all “tracht-ed up”:

Mmm mmm good

Wednesday, August 3rd, 2011

Tuesday was soup day at Kirchtag. What kind of soup?  Kirchtagsuppe, of course!  It’s a creamy, heavily seasoned soup with 3 kinds of meat – chicken, beef, and pork. It’s served with a slice of bread called Reindling, which is sweet and almost like a cinnamon roll with raisins. The secret seems to be in the combinations of herbs and spices that are used, and everyone has their own recipe.  Six of the local restaurants served up their best versions at a tasting contest with some of the local dignitaries.  I tried a couple of them at lunch with some friends, and there were all pretty good.  I might have to learn to make it someday.

The festivities are ramping up in intensity and frequency each day.  More soon!

Here is some of the crowd enjoying the soup.

Roll out the barrels

Monday, August 1st, 2011

Kirchtag week has started!  Over the last few days, our town has changed drastically.  Every few hours a new tent or canival ride seems to spring up as the last minute rush to finish preparation continues.  Some of the areas and activities don’t open officially until later in the week, so there is still a lot of prep work happening everywhere.

Sunday was the opening day, with a few beer and food stands in the main square.  The mayor (or Burgermeister) tapped the first keg with a big wooden mallet.  With that the oompah music started , and really hasn’t stopped since.

The first day was mostly for local folks and there were many people dressed in traditional clothes or ‘Ttracht.”  Each day during the week, more and more events will take place, building up to the big Kirchtag next Saturday.  I’m writing this Monday and there is now a market and more food stands open.  The market has everything from a blacksmith making traditional pots and knives to bake stands selling the most amazing looking cookies and pastries.

This was my first beer (of many to come) of Kirchtag!

Tree days to go…

Friday, July 29th, 2011

Actually, that’s three days to go.

There are just 3 days left until the festival called Kirchtag starts here.  While many towns in Austria have Kirchtag celebrations, the one here in Villach is the largest.  From what I’ve been told the whole town becomes one big party with many visitors from Italy, Slovenia, and elsewhere in Europe.  The streets close to traffic and there will be music, food, carnival rides, and lots of beer.  There will also be lots of traditional markets, crafts, recipes, and costumes.

One of the main music & food area will be just outside our apartment, so we are both excited about the fun and concerned about the noise.  The kickoff is this Sunday, but many preparations are starting already.  We woke up to a new addition “growing” in the town square today.  Here’s the Kirchtagsbaum going up:

Me Gusta

Friday, July 22nd, 2011

My last few posts have been about places we visited with my parents.  On the surface to our guests it could seem like we’re living one big European vacation (not the Chevy Chase movie), but I think they started to get a sense of what it’s really like to live here on a day to day basis.  We really are getting used to it.  The everyday errands like getting groceries and paying bills are becoming more routine.  We know all the brands that each supermarket carries and have figured out what you can and can’t get here.  We’re learning all the German names for everything from ginger (Ingwer) to bathroom cleaner (Badreiniger).  I also found a dictionary app for my mobile phone that I’m not too proud to pull out at the grocery store when I’m stumped by a new label.

Most things that we want are fairly simple to find, even if it takes trips to multiple stores.  However, I can say with some certainty that there is no Jello in Villach. Some weird clear, flavorless gelatin for use in tortes?  Yes.  But good old instant cherry or lime Jello?  No.

We can live without that, but something we’ve really been missing are black beans.  In California we had many types (regular, low salt, extra spicy) to choose from as well as multiple brands, and our fajitas here have been lacking that little extra side dish.

A few weeks ago we were in Vienna and stumbled onto a strangely out of place Mexican market.  We stocked up and are rationing them for now until we find another source.