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Kicking Back on the Kerala Backwaters

Saturday, February 7th, 2009

After our last post, we headed to Periyar, a wildlife sanctuary. We took a “jeep” (actually a Mahindra) safari and spotted a cobra, a huge tiger back spider, lots of langur monkeys, and some Malabar giant squirrels (don‘t laugh, they really are huge). We were disappointed that we didn’t see any wild elephants, especially because we saw so much evidence, i.e. fresh dung, that we knew they were nearby.

Our next stop was a homestay on a rubber plantation. The family who own and run the plantation also host tourists for stays in their guesthouse. Aside from learning about how the latex is harvested from the trees, we were also treated to some amazing meals in their house. The food in Kerala is quite different from the north and uses a lot of coconut milk.

The homestay was the first real downtime we’ve had since we arrived, but our next stop was even better. We boarded a houseboat to cruise the backwaters of Kerala. These boats are patterned after traditional bamboo rice barges, but they are all luxury inside. As the boat cruised through quiet canals with views of rice paddies and coconut palms, we were tempted with meals of fresh caught seafood by the on board cook. This experience was by far the most relaxing, decadent thing we’ve done here. The Kerala tourism slogan is “God’s Own Country” and now I have to agree.

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Tea for Two

Monday, February 2nd, 2009

We’ve been offline for a while, so I’ll just take a few lines to catch up.  During our long layover in Mumbai, we caught a movie.  Bollywood makes more films than Hollywood, so the cinema is serious business here.  We opted for Slumdog Millionaire in English, but it was also showing in Hindi as Slumdog Chorapati (think I got the spelling right).  It was strange to be watching the scenes of Mumbai  on the screen while actually being surrounded by it.  It’s a very clever story, so I hope it picks up a Oscar or two…

After the chaos of north India, we arrived in Kerala with, as the Lonely Planet guide aptly puts it “a sigh of relief.”  The south is very different – less crowded, more organized, slower paced, more friendly.  There’s a lot to see in Cochin/Kochi, including quite a few churches that set up when the Portuguese, Dutch, and finally English traders came here starting in the 1500s.

Kerala elected a communist government in the 1950s and has kept it since then. There is also a mix of Christian, Muslim, and Hindu religions here, along with quite a bit of healthy capitalism, which creates a very unique brand of what our local guide called “Tata” Communism.  After an intense conversation with him about how it all works (and it does seem to working well here), he left us with a great quote, “Philosophy doesn’t bake bread.”

From there we headed to Munnar, famous for the tea plantations high in the mountains.  The scenery is beautiful and the tea and cardamom plants make the whole place look like it was landscaped.  This might be my favorite place in India so far.  Here’s the view:

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