BootsnAll Travel Network



Declarations of Intent

August 21st, 2006

12:30 AM, 8/21/06

After what felt like 24 hours of travel but in reality was only about 16, I arrived at The Generator hostel in London. I felt as though I’d been on the move for 24 hours because of the 8 hour time change. On my overnight flight to D.C., I got…ohhh…about one hour of sleep. I was so delirious that I actually thought—for a moment—that the plane had managed to arrive three hours early. In fact, I had simply neglected the time chance. Oops. The D.C. airport didn’t provide any better sleeping conditions than the airplane. You know, they have those hard black seats…they’re even more uncomfortable to lay on than sit on. However, all turned out for the best because I totally passed out on the flight to London. And I really mean, “passed out.” None of that in and out of sleep crap. I was listening to an audio book and after about the first fifteen minutes, it’s a complete blank. The only thing capable of keeping me awake was food, which (if you can believe it) was actually good—yes, good. They had this egg omelet sausage thing and I actually wanted more. The girl next to me refused her meal (she seemed very cranky for the entire flight) and I considered asking her if I could have the extra meal. I decided against it though. Anyway, the London Airport was remarkable easy to navigate. There were signs for everything. I almost expected to see a sign that read “Greg, go this way to find the train to take you to your hostel.” I didn’t take any wrong turns and the only thing that took much time was the customs queue. And aside from turning in the customs form, the airport made the process remarkable easy. After getting my baggage, I found a hall with a sign over it that read “Nothing to Declare.” This surprised me since in New Zealand and Australia, the sign was more likely to read “Declare All Goods or Face Eternal Damnation.”
So it’s now just midnight here and things are pretty relaxed, so I’m probably going to go to bed. It took all of 5 seconds after stepping into the hostel to remember how much backpackers (and particularly the English) smoke. And seeing as it’s only my first night in Europe, I think I’ll retain some semblance of health before I resign myself to the black lung.

Tags: , , , , , , ,

Zombies in the Airport!

August 20th, 2006

Written at 8:30 PM, 8/20/06 in Portland, Oregon.

Airports remind me of graveyards. No—not in some sort of sick, morbid, fatalistic sense. They remind me of graveyards because of their atmosphere of dark, quiet solemnity. I am currently in the airport waiting. I have roughly another two hours before my flight boards. Packing and preparations went relatively smoothely, and I seem to have only forgotten one thing (at least that I’ve realized). Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , ,

The Songs of Travel

August 12th, 2006

In honor of the seven-day countdown to my departure to Europe, I’ve composed a little travelogue about—what else—traveling.

When that horizon sings its sweet melody of escape, all those wanderers, with their wandering ways, have to go. The melody sounds different for each wayfarer. Some hear the smooth lyrics of island songs, others the gentle beat of African drums. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , ,

Treking the Track

November 13th, 2004

Day 10 – Pichton to Queen Charlotte Track

And so we began our mighty tramp. We woke up around seven in order to have enough time to get our things together and get to the water taxi by 7:45. We’d gotten most of our gear together already, which just left showing and getting breakfast. After we did that, we walked over to the water taxi and caught the boat to ship’s cove where the tramp would begin. The boat ride took about 45 minutes and brought us through the bay. It gave me the opportunity to see a variety of birds as well as the scenery of the Pichton area. Once at Ship’s Cove, we were confronted with the rain forest-like path that ascended steeply upward. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , ,

Ready, Set, Hike!

November 12th, 2004

Day 9 – St. Arnaud to Pichton

With only a short drive before we got to Pichton, we set out early from St. Arnaud. The drive was brief and included only one intermittent stop in which we got gas at Blenheim. I bought some breakfast there but the lady working had no idea how to make any type of coffee and so even though I ordered a cappuccino, I only got black coffee. As we drove around the north part of the island, the roads became noticeably more crowded and the land quite a bit more populated. Pichton was a relatively small town that seemed to mostly revolve around its role as a Ferry port and jump-off point for the Queen Charlotte track and other resorts in the bay. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , , ,

Drive Drive Drive

November 11th, 2004

Day 8 – Franz Josef to St. Arnaud

Having gone to bed so early, Tory and I were both astonished when we woke up at the relatively late time of 8:30. We were both so utterly exhausted that we’d slept well over nine hours. After a typically brief breakfast, we packed our bags in the car and set out towards the unknown. Truth be known, we had not the slightest idea where we would end up this day, only that we wanted to make it about half way to Pichton. We’d already been forced to change our rental car reservation to allot us enough time to do everything and go on the Queen Charlotte Track. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , , ,

On Ice

November 10th, 2004

Day 7 – Franz Josef Glacier

It was another early morning for Tory and I as we awoke for our adventure on the glacier. We donned several layers of clothing and set out for the spot where we would be meeting the bus. Before we could board, however, they gave us coats, rain pants, and cramp-ons. We met an older couple there who was unusually talkative. Their names were Glen and Margaux. Margaux had this strange way of talking to you in which she would always say your name when addressing you. We talked with them for a few minutes before boarding the bus. The bus ride took us back in the direction from which we’d come. After only about 20 minutes we were at the parking lot where the trail to the glacier began. The path out to the glacier took us over the remains of where the glacier was only a few hundred years ago. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , ,

Glacial Preparations

November 9th, 2004

Day 7 – Te Anau to Franz Josef

Consider how tired we’d been, we got a relatively early start towards Wanaka. Traveling to Wanaka required us to do the only backtracking of our whole trips on the South Island. We knew that we wanted to get to Franz-Josef to do some glacier hiking, but it was still undecided whether we might do a full-day or half-day. I entertained myself on the drive to Wanaka by looking at the New Zealand guides and writing on my computer. When we’d arrived in Wanaka and it was only noon though, it seemed we should continue on, for we were making good time. So, scratching the plan to do a day hike in Wanaka, we continued on up the West Coast, where the weather grew increasingly dismal and progressively rainier. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , ,

Kayaks and Sandflies

November 8th, 2004

Day 6 – Te Anau to Milford and back.

Without a shower and with minimal breakfast, we rolled out of the YHA at 5:45am to await our transport to Milford. We were the first to be picked up. A woman named Steph was our driver and would be guiding us for the whole day. After us she picked up an Austrian couple and a French girl named Matild. It was still quite dark out when we pulled out of Te Anau. We drove along the same road we’d taken on the way to Hollyford Road the previous day. Along the drive Steph told us tidbits about Fiordland and Milford Sound. After traveling beyond the Hollyford road, the landscape began the change. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , ,

Mountain Paradise

November 7th, 2004

Day 5 – Queenstown to Te Anau

Still feeling some of the leftover effects of the beer from the previous night, we got up late at the Queenstown YHA and prepared to go to Te Anau. We were unsure exactly how our next few days would go, but kayaking or a cruise around Milford Sound was likely. As the jump-off point for trips into Milford, Te Anau was the ideal place for us to spend our next night. As we left Queenstown, the road grew curvy and was increasingly high. We were passing over the magnificent Southern Alps. Read the rest of this entry »

Tags: , , , ,