A Jolly Good Trip

Happy New Year!

Fred and I left Etosha National Park and drove 6.5 hours north-east to Rundu, Namibia. The scenery was fantastic as we passed small farming villages, oxen pulling plows, and women and children gathered around pumps awaiting their turn to fill their container with water (I should have brought some of your pumps, Dan 🙂

In the town of Rundu, we settled on a Swiss-operated lodge ($51 US) on the beach overlooking the Okanvango River since N’Kwanzi was booked full. I was a little surprised when the manager gave us earplugs for the load noise which she advised would be coming from the big tent at the river only metres away (which it did until 4 a.m). There was also a written notice advising guests to stay on the cleared path, to not swim in the river, and to keep away from the long grass – all because of crocodiles and snakes.

After unloading our luggage into the room, we drove around looking for a wi-fi hot spot so I could upload my blogs. After about 6 stops (indicating either “closed”, “relocating” or “on holidays”) we finally found a friendly business that would allow me to plug the internet cable into their computer cable. The owner asked about our travels and indicated that he was interested in starting a tourist business to Angola. I asked him whether we could cross over to Angola and he just smiled and laughed. So much for the idea of seeing Angola – this time.

We ended up speaking at breakfast with a couple from Windhoek, Namibia who were travelling to Vic Falls that day. We decided to change our plans and drive first to Vic Falls, Zambia, and then come back through Botswana.

What we anticipated would take us 6 hours ended up being a long, 10 hour drive. We went through at least 3 Namibian police checkpoints (at least they were courteous and polite) as well as a Disease Control point where we had to exit our vehicle and step onto a squishy platform to disinfect our shoes while an official sprayed the lower perimeter of our vehicle.

Once at the border with Zambia, it was another test of patience. What a procedure – first, we had to stand in line and pay $50 US each for a Visa. Next, we had to get stamped through customs. Then, we had to pay $30 US for Third Party Car Insurance and sign more paperwork. Fourth, we had to pay $20 for Vehicle Emissions, fifth – $15 US for Road Services, and finally, $15 for Council money. All this required time, paperwork, and money (of course) as well as dealing with one official to the next. We seemed to have all our paperwork in order since the couple we had breakfast with had left an hour before us and were still doing the necessary paperwork when we pulled away, 50 minutes later.

We noticed a considerable difference travelling through Zambia as opposed to Namibia and South Africa. It definitely appeared poorer and there were very few vehicles on the roadway, however, a lot of female pedestrians were walking along the road, balancing jars, sticks, or laundry on their heads. Men or boys were walking roadside, directing their small herd of cattle or goats.

Because of the political situation in Zimbabwe, we decided to see the falls from the Zambian side. We arrived in Livingstone, Zambia at dark with no prebooked accommodations. Using our guide book, we initially tried Jolly Boys Backpackers with no luck (booked up). They called Fawlty Towers for us and luckily they had a room left. I think this was our most bare-bones accommodation yet on this trip (twin beds, shared washrooms, no fan/air con, stifling hot, $30/night). We lasted through the night then switched to Nygone ($70 with private bath, air con, tv, etc).

We drove to Victoria Falls, one of the “Seven Natural Wonders of the World” and admired her for a couple of hours. Very spectacular and the spray was much appreciated in the 35 degree humid temperatures. We walked around the market area and were bombarded with Zambians trying to sell us everything from carvings to beaded necklaces. I think there must be a water shortage on the Zambian side, too, since I don’t think those fellows have showered in a month!

After having lunch at an “authentic” (but touristy) African restaurant, Fred went for a nap while I enjoyed a 2 hour New Year’s Day ride through a National Park, alongside the Zambezi River, and over the manicured lawns of the “Royal Livingstone”. There was just one couple riding with me (a white couple from Botswana), who I found very interesting and they shared a lot about their culture with me. I rode a tall, sorrel thoroughbred cross who fortunately, didn’t like the thorn bushes either and saved my legs from getting totally ripped up in the thorns (I decided to ride last minute so didn’t have the time to change).

January 2 we left Zambia enroute to what the couple from Botswana told us was the worst border crossing in all of Africa – Kazungula (Zambia) to Kasane (Botswana). The crossing is made worse because it has to be done by ferry. Luckily, our timing was perfect and after more paperwork, we departed on the 10:30 a.m. ferry. At this location, 4 countries meet – Zambia, Zimbabwe, Namibia, and Botswana. Finally, we were in Botswana.

Until next time,

Lisa n Fred

EXCERPTS FROM THE NAMIBIA SUN — DECEMBER 24, 2008

as reported by Fred:

I thought you might find the following excerpts interesting.

TWO SENTENCED TO 30 YEARS FOR RAPE

The front page headlined the sentencing of two rapists to 30 years in prison. It seems that the two men, age 23 and 24, broke into a home and raped a 15 year old girl. The girl testified that the men did not turn on the light but that she recognized their voices as local men in her village. One man raped her once and the other raped her twice. They held a knife to her throat and threatened to kill her if she uttered a sound. Afterwards, her screams woke her grandfather who asked what had happened.

The girl identified the two suspects and the father gathered several neighbours and they set out after the culprits. They confronted one of the men at his hut but he broke through the wall and escaped. They apprehended the other man but he too escaped while being escorted to the police station. Both men were arrested a few days later.

Only one of the accused testified on his behalf and he told the court that his friend invited him along to visit a girl. His friend had sex with the girl while he waited in another part of the room. The court refused to believe his testimony and the judge called the victim a good and reliable witness.

The judge convicted both men on three counts of rape including the occasions that one stood guard while the other raped the girl. He sentenced them to 15 years on each count of rape but made two of the 15 year sentences concurrent with another. The final sentence for each totalled 30 years in prison. One of the accused had dismissed his lawyer after the trial began and the other was un-represented.

MAN TO SERVE 5 YEARS FOR THEFT OF COWS

In this case, a 45-year-old Namibian man pled guilty to stealing two of his neighbours cows. He was sentenced to 20 years imprisonment by the judge. The judge commended him for admitting his guilt and for pleading guilty and decreed that 15 years of the sentence would be suspended providing that the man is not convicted again during that time period. The final term to be served for the crime is five years. The newspaper reported that the man has five children.

CELL PAL

There are two full pages of this ten page paper devoted to personals from people who provide their cell phone number. They ask respondents to either call or text message them if they are interested. Some examples which include their text message spellings:

Hi, im Lena, a 29 y age lady, HIV positive looking for man anywhere in Namibia. I hve only one son. Call …

I am Ras, 22 black and gay and looking for boys just to have fun.

This is your boy Denzel looking for girls from de age of 12 to 14. Contact me only from 7 to 12. Luv Denzel

I am 24 years of age looking 4 a sugar mummy. Must be independent with a place of her own. Any interested mummys call me. Please no jokes or miscals. She must be 30-48.

Sugar Mamy u ar working and hv yo own house. What you want is a man. Now is yo chance for a fresh boy of 23 yrs. If you are ready to have a brilliant boy lyk me, just call. Be ready 4 HIV test.

I am 30 yr lady who is HIV + and I have 2 kids. I am interested in a man who wants a serious relationship and marriage between 35 and 45. Only serious man plz.

Hi. its ur boy nelly. I’m 2 hot and im lukn 4 hot chicks. If u r hot, call me at …

Hala hala ladiez! Diz ur boy Kronic!! Think ur up to cht with Knonic, call. Ladiez strickly.

I am Mercy and am looking for cute, sweet but independent guys age 24 to 28. If you are looking 4 a princess, look no further. No perverts!

I am woman 40 yr looking for man 50-58 who did not get married, is not smoking and non drinking, must believe in God and be gowing to church. Ask for Alleta.

29 yr looking for sugur mammy to be my love. Mast work, have own pls. Age 33-40.

This is your boy Rey looking for girls between 13 and 15. fone me at … love Rey Wolf.

Wassup girls this is ur boy Calvin seeking hot ladies. If ur up for it, call.

Im a 22 year old guy looking for a rich and sexy sugar mummy from 29-35.

Soul-sistas! Its ya gal Ceye 18 yrs yung, luking 4 cool gals who are outspoken, bubbly and love to live the fast life. Age dnt matter bt no minors pleez. Dumb blonds r welcum 2. Gals only. Happy holidays.

Whts up al u butful galz if u thnk u cn hndle me thn gve me a call. Only galz 15-17 nd no miscals.

AUNTIE NAMGY ADVICE COLUMN

Another page of the Namibian Star is devoted to Auntie Nangy, an advice columnist.

The column includes advice about what to do with cheating boyfriends, husbands, wives and girlfriends, what virginity means, which type of condom to use, how to avoid period sickness, whether or not to get married, how to get a boyfriend to marry her, how to get pregnant, whether this guy really loves her (he cheats), and how to get a boyfriend back from her best friend.

A BULL ELEPHANT CHARGES LISA!

Lisa and I had a great time in Etosha National Park in Namibia. We saw all kinds of animals including zebra, giraffe, lions, black rhinos, hyenas, baboons, and birds. The animal I most wanted to see, however, was the elephant. We drove around a lot and took a night safari but there were no elephants to be seen. I was very disappointed to find out that we had missed seeing four elephants at the watering hole at our camp by only half an hour.

When we left Etosha heading for Zambia, I even said to Lisa that we might tour all of Africa and never see an elephant. She was far more optimistic and said that it was just a matter of time. She even predicted that we would probably see elephants on our drive through the Caprivi National Park on our way to Zambia.

When we entered Caprivi National park, we immediately saw the road signs warning us about elephants crossing the road and indicating that the speed limit was 80 km per hour (as opposed to the usual 120 km per hour).

We drove through the park for two hours or more but saw no elephants. There were elephant dung piles and there were broken and uprooted trees all along the road for the entire trip (sure signs of elephant activity). But still no elephants.

Just as we neared the end of the park, Lisa spotted a bull elephant coming out of the bush two hundred yards ahead. I stopped the car about 50 to 60 yards away and turned off the engine. The elephant had small tusks so we assumed that it was a young bull male. It seemed agitated and somewhat nervous and watched us intensely as it moved back and forth amongst the trees..

He seemed to want to cross the road but was reluctant and perhaps afraid. A 4-wheel drive vehicle passed on the other side and he retreated back into the bush a few paces. Both Lisa and I took photographs from the car. Because he was on my side, I had the camera ready to photograph him as he crossed the road.

When he did make his move, however, he trotted across quickly and I could only get a blurry picture of his backside. He stopped on the other side and I drove up beside him. He was standing in the bush about 50 yards away looking back at us. I turned off the engine and Lisa took another photo of the young bull.

He was partially hidden by some branches so I suggested to Lisa that she get out of the car to get a clear picture. She opened her door and moved out to the front bumper to take her shot. The elephant watched her and then suddenly, he bent his head down and began to charge! I heard Lisa yell “Oh shit!” and she wheeled around the open door and leaped into the car yelling “Let’s get out of here!”.

From my view, I could see that the elephant only faked his charge. He took two or three steps and stopped. That was enough to get Lisa moving so she didn’t see that it was a feint.

I have to say that I had no idea that Lisa could move so fast. She was around the door and in the car is less that a second. She said later that she had the camera ready to take a shot and was looking through the viewfinder when she saw the bull make is aggressive move towards her.

I was also sure that the bull was charging and I have to confess that when he made his move, I threw the gear shift into neutral and reached for the key to start the car. Lisa was already in the car before I could get my hand on the key. By then, however, I knew that the elephant wasn’t coming.

I must say that this has been the funniest incident that has occurred on this trip. I couldn’t believe how fierce that elephant looked or how fast my wife can move.

It was made even funnier when Lisa reminded me that it was I who suggested that she step out of the car to take a better photograph. She claims that she was “set up” and that this is the last time she is going to listen to me. I’m sure I won’t hear the last of this incident.

She also said that she was surprised that I didn’t drive off and leave her there. Of course, I couldn’t have done that since she was in the car before I could even start the engine 🙂

Anyway, we saw our first elephant and it made a lasting impression on both of us. Lisa also has a good story to tell her students when she gets back in the classroom.

Just as a footnote to all of this, we met some Afrikaners at Gecko Creek Lodge in South Africa who told us about their good friend who was killed by a bull elephant. Their friend was a Park Ranger and conservationist and he took some tourist on a bush walk when they were attacked by a bull elephant. He sent the tourists in one direction and he tried to lead the elephant away from them. The bull caught up to him, however, and trampled him to death.

These animals are clearly dangerous and we have learned to stay in our car from now on.

HELLO TO OUR FRIENDS AND FAMILY

A number of our friends have asked us if we are tired of travelling since we have been gone almost four months. The answer is no, we are not tired yet — especially when we hear about the kind of winter Ontario is experiencing. We don’t miss the cold, driving on winter roads , winter clothes, scraping our windshields etc. Lisa doesn’t miss putting on “teacher clothes” and makeup everyday.

However, we do miss friends and family and I miss my magazines and newspapers: the KW Record, the Globe and Mail, The Economist, and Time Magazine. I suppose I’ll just have to make due with the Namibian Star until May 2009.

By the way, I also miss kicking John Leroux’s butt in pool every Thursday night on what Lisa calls our “mandate”. And I miss beating Toby Tombros in golf each time we play and hammering Darrell and Miles each and every week by 10 to 15 strokes. I look forward to all of these simple joys when we return in the Spring.

Cheers,

Fred