The Vagrant Gypsy Life

Day 7 Sunday Sept 5, Rio

My first brush with bad weather in Rio. Woke up to the sound of the wind blowing the windows shut. After breakfast, walked up to the beach. Had to turn back due to the wind a block away. The wind was so strong that it was blowing sand up the road.

Went for a walk around Lagoa Rodrigo do Freitas. A 7.5 km trail around a lagoon. I had a nice walk around the lagoon, passing the Jardim Botanico and getting to see various neighbourhoods in a different light.

Had lunch at the Hippie de Feria at Ipanema, a fair in a square in Ipanema. Artisans, painters, lining up the square with some lovely handicrafts, paintings; brushing shoulders with vendors selling trinkets, T-shirts, jewellry; of course, there was a food stall too with cuisine from the North east.

Returned to the hostel to a restful evening.

Dinner was a gyro from the local shop. It was a change to not have fruit juice and snack for a meal.

Day 8 Rio

My luck with the good weather was apparently over. Another rainy /cloudy day in Rio.

One of the many fellow rovers, working at the hostel for board had a day off. We had planned to spend a lazy day at the Parque Lage. Of course, by the time we left the hostel, the group had grown to 6. Allen is a suave charmer and managed to get 4 girls to join us. I knew the city best of all of us and ended up acting the tourist guide. Starting at the Candelaria, I took the girls and Allen on a tour of the city centre, pointing out buildings of interest – Camara Municipal, Biblioteca National, Museum of fine arts, Convento St Antonio, Teatro Municipal. The bus ride to Parque Lage took us through more neighbourhoods. It was quite fun fielding questions from Brasilians about Rio!

Parque Lage is enchanting. A mini-jungle in the city, a block away from the lagoon, it has an aquarium in a cave, a waterfall, lovely little paths. Overlooking the park is the ever present Cristo Redendor. Spent 2-3 happy, peaceful hours walking, sitting and enjoying the greenery and the monkeys leaping from tree to tree.

Walked back to the hostel along the lagoa. Views of the city at night. I enjoy walking around a city at night – it has a different vibe. The lights, of course, make a difference.

Dinner was at a self-service organic place (New Green?). Good food by the kilo. 36 Reals for a kilo, which is a fairly good bargain in Rio.

Being my last night in Rio, I was convinced by the girls to go out with them and another group of folks from the hostel. Folks who know me will surely realise that it took a lot of arm-bending for the girls to get me to go out with them. A coconut at the beach at 10:30 is not an experience one has often. Finisged the night at some bar where they played rock music and reggae. Home and in bed at 02:00! I’m certainly living it up.

Day 5: Sept 3, Rio/Niteroi

I woke up early and took the bus to the city centre. My attempt at speaking Portuguese elicited a smile and a shake of the head from the pretty conductor (In Brasilian buses, you enter through the front and pay a person who is in charge of taking money, giving change and letting you through a turnstile. You eventually get out the door at the back). Fighting through the morning traffic in Copacabana, Flamengo, Botofago etc, the bus made it to the city centre in about an hour!

I started my wandering at the Sao Bento monastery. Made my way around the city centre, watching the poor employed productive citizens of Rio out and about the busy lives. (It is hard work being me at the moment. I feel as if I have to enjoy for all those poor, hardworking people and also my friends far away.)

Brasilian elections are at hand. People handing out flyers all over centro. The folk don’t really wait to let you finish saying “Nao, obrigado”, but shove the flyer in your hand and look out for their next victim. Lula’s protege seems to be leading the polls and looks like a certainty for the next President.

I was struck by the fact that Romario and Bebeto are standing for elections or are supporting some candidate. Deputado.. I have no idea what that means. Parliament, maybe? (Bebeto and Romario, for my non-football speaking friends, are two strikers who were part of the 1994 world cup winning Brasilian team. Bebeto became famous for his iconic celebration after scoring a goal in the semifinal against the Netherlands. Romario and another player joined in. The three of them mimicked rocking a baby, as Bebeto dedicated his goal to his 2 or 3 day old new-born. I remember seeing the game and couldnt understand what they were doing!)

Stopped by the tourist office and there was nobody there! I wonder if this is why the folks of Sao Paulo tease the Cariocas. I was directed to the tourist office upstairs where again I was thwarted by the absence of anyone manning the fort. I finally managed to stop a young lady and ask her how to get to Niteroi in a combination of broken Portuguese and Spanish. Armed with a map and instructions in hand, I head down to the ferry terminal.

My main reason to head to Niteroi was to visit the museum designed by Oscar Niemeyer, and the great view of Rio across the bay. (The equivalent for us in Seattle is the view from Alki). The panoramic view encompasses Pao de Azucar, the neighbourhoods of Urca, Flamengo, Botofago, Sta Teresa, Centro and the statue of Cristo Redendor looming over the neighbourhood. It was a very pleasant 20 minute walk along the coast. There are of course beaches along the way, with people playing football, sunbathing, enjoying life. There were also some construction workers taking a siesta during the mid-day break. Very pleasant 23 deg weather with a light breeze. Very enjoyble walk.

Got back to the hostel and took it easy the rest of the evening. The only time I headed out of the hostel was for an hour long walk around the neighbourhood. I havent seen the neighbourhood at night much yet!

Photos: (you don’t need a facebook account to view them)
Niteroi
Rio

2 consecutive posts! It is good to have free internet access at the hostel. It also helps that everyone is out to party on a Sat night, leaving us old folks with unhindered access to the computer!

Heading out of Rio on Tuesday. Ilha Grande, Paraty, Trinidade and Sao Paulo …

Day 6: Sept 4, Rio

The weather forecast for the day was sunny, and a high of 37 deg C. After a decade in Seattle, I wasnt sure I wanted to deal with it, and took to the hills. I spent the day getting to & back, and hiking in the Tijuca national forest.

Floresta Tijuca is the biggest jungle in the middle of a city. I got there around 11:30. Getting there was a wee bit more complicated than it should have been, but I managed to flag down the wrong bus. More stabs at Portuguese. I love listening to Brasilians speak Portuguese. It sounds extremely musical. All the more fun because I dont understand it. I am sure the conversations wouldnt sound quite so poetical if I were to translate it to the mundane details of life.

I spent the afternoon hiking. Went up a hill; it was meant to be a medium hike. I am not sure whom they had in mind for there were parts I felt I were a mountain climber. Lovely views from the top. View of the city, shrouded by forest. After that I went on a fairly flat hike to a waterfall where a couple of families were having showers, taking photos and having a picnic. A nice day spent in a beautiful setting. I was alone for long periods of time that I couldn’t really believe that I was only a bus ride away from the crowded bustle of the city!

2 posts in 3 days. It can only go downhill from here….

Day 1 : Seattle/Charlotte Monday Aug 30

3 frantic days of packing, cleaning and moving before the apartment was empty and clean enuogh to allow me to hand the keys over to the manager. Amazing how much work there was, especially when I got to the last stages! I felt like a rabbit who is separated from his carrot and could only cover, at any one go, half the distance between it and himself!

Uneventful flights from Seattle to Charlotte and from Charlotte to Rio. Being a pseudo-Brasilian does work sometimes. A flight attendant was assured that I was Brasilian and talked to me in Portuguese a couple of times before she would accept otherwise.

Day 2 : Rio, 31/08

The international airport at Rio was much smaller than I expected. Of course, I have to remind myself that the reality of Brasil may not quite match up to the one of my dreams.

After checking into the hostel run by an Aussie married to a Brasilian, I went out for a long walk along the beaches of Ipanema and Copacabana. Middle of a working day and the beaches were bursting with life. I was glad I had my shades on as I walked on, casting an avuncular eye on the kids and the teenagers making out and a far from avuncular eyes on some of the other comely figures. A beautiful day, clear blue skies, a beautiful beach and quite a bit of eye candy made it a very nice start to my trip. I did have the occasional George Kaztanza moments where I decided to pull in my gut – didn’t want the Brasilian men blaming me for turning their women off men!

I couldnt also help thinking that I was bloody well born in the wrong place. I should really have been born in Rio! I think (one of) the Gods surely got that wrong!

I was ready for a quiet night at the hostel; that was till I got back and ran into a bunch of people going to Lapa for a Samba concert. Got back to the hostel at 3:00 the next morning. A very enjoyable concert in Lapa, the party quarter of Rio. The place seemed like a museum of curius artefacts when it doesnt host concerts. And oh boy, Brasilians have double joined hips or some kind of machine that allows them to move them in a seemily impossible manner!

Day 3 : Rio, 01/09

After breakfast, went for a stroll and a swim at Ipanema. 8 am and there were people out swimming, jogging, playing football, volleyball and sunbathing. It must surely be nice to live so close to the beach. It is quite enjoyable to walk along the beach and listen to the sound of the waves. I am determined to make the morning walk a daily event while I am here.

I was invited by 3 folks working at the hostel to join them on a short day trip (a local, and two backpackers who work at the hostel in exchange for accommodation.) Metro to Centro and we start the afternoon off at a Confeiteira that has been open since 1894. A snack that melted in my mouth, a fruit juice and a chocolate surely is the lunch of the gods!

A short walk found us at the Metropolitan Catedral. Quite an interestng structure, which can house upto 20,000 devotees. After that a tram ride led us up into the neighbourhood of Santa Teresa. Once the neighbourhood of the rich, now home to artists and the bohemian crowd, it is one of my favourite parts of Rio. Old Beautiful buildings, narrow cobbled streets and a few spots which offer lovely views. (Parque do Ruinas)

An early night. Was in bed and asleep by 21:00!

Day 4: Rio, Sept 2

Started the day off with another walk on the beach.

I form a theory as to why people in Rio are so laid back while I walk. Surely it is the weather, the sun, the beach and the beautiful scenery on offer. Maybe the folks from warm climes like life too much to get riled, go to war, etc.

I take a few minutes to watch children ages 4-5 playing football. Some of the children could play! No wonder Brasil is good at the game. They start so young, it is in their blood!

Went on a tour run by a voluble Brasilian, with a few people from the hostel. Tour started at 10:15 and I got back to the hostel at 18:30 after a packed day! We started off by driving around a few neighbourhoods. Then a short trip to a waterfalls in Tijuca, which at 37.5 sq km is apparently the largest forest land in the middle of a city in the entire world. Of course, on a tour, you only see a little of the place. I resolve to go back for a hike. It is cool and there is a nice breeze.

A 20 minute ride and 220 steps later, it is Cristo Redendor at the top of the Corcovado mountain. The statue of Christ with wide-open welcoming arms is surely one of the most visited spots in Brasil! The views from the monument of the city are all-encompassing and jaw dropping. It was a lovely day, though there was a bit of a haze.

Lunch was at Santa Teresa. Rice, beans and a fruit jiuce! Yum. I don’t think I will ever get tired of fruit juices; suco de frutas naturales. Kerala does extend its influence beyond its boundaries…

After lunch we went to see Jorge Selaron’s mosiac steps in Lapa. He had the steps leading up from Lapa to Sta Teresa covered in tiles, many of them brought from other countries. His assistant rattled off many names and showed me the tile they got from the Taj Mahal!! I wonder how they procured it. The moustachioed eccentric artist showed up soon enough in a red hat and a red Tshirt. He allowed himself to be photographed with most of us tourists. Seemed quite an interesting character who has seen a lot of the world! A Chilean who played tennis and lived in India in his youth, he has made a favela in Rio his home. I liked his paintings too. If Rio had been at the end of my trip, I would have brought some home with me!

I wonder how long I will keep up the regular blog entries….

I must down to the seas again
To the vagrant gypsy life
To the gull’s way
To the whale’s way
Where the wind’s like a whetted knife
And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing rover and quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trip’s over

My year as a nomad is around the corner and I wait with bated breath. (I prefer to skip a chapter and not think of the hours that I will have to spend cleaning tomorrow).