The Vagrant Gypsy Life

Day 48 Saturday 16/10 Lagoa/ bus to Foz

It was a stressful start to the day as I had to call and cancel my credit card. It took a while. The thief who stole my money was also a devious son of unwed parents! He took down the number of the credit card and put it back. Unfortunately for him, I was keeping a close eye on my transactions since I figured there might be a chance he might have done the very thing. He also was stupid to use it at the hostel, so the owner is on his track. I hope the sky falls on him 🙂

Took it easy the rest of the day. Went for a short walk, and then to the organic fair at the square. Lovely food. I do take the markets in Seattle for granted. I have missed that here in Brasil. Floripa is about the only place that I have been able to have some vegetarian food! I bought some granola, nuts and had a suco verde (green juice) – I have no idea what they put it in though they made it in front of me.

Spent the rest of the afternoon lounging at the hostel, chatting to my fellow travellers, playing some pool and relaxing. Getting psyched for another long bus ride!

Day 49 Sunday 17/10 Foz

Another 14 hour bus ride. It was a bit uncomfortable, but I was lucky that the seat next to me wasnt occupied. Being short has its advantages!

The hostel provides a free pick-up service, although it is but barely a km away. Who am I to complain with a 14 kg backpack?

The ride to the Brasilian side of the falls took about an hour. The entry fee was a bit steep, and there isnt a lot to do on the Brasilian side without breaking your piggy bank. The only free options are the bus rides and a 1 km hike to Garganto del Diablo, the devil’s throat, the most impressive of the waterfalls. It was also my first look at Argentina, as the falls are shared by Brasil and Argentina.

There are multiple falls on the way to the Devil’s throat. The falls are spectatuclar. Step aside, Niagra! It was hard to see the bottom of some of the falls, since the mist from the fall covered them! We all got very wet. Luckily I had anticipated the mist, taking my raintcoat with me and had also taken care to wrap my wallet in plastic.

Got to the hostel after spending 2-3 hours taking in the splendour of the water and the sound. Ah, the mighty roar of water! I love the sound of the water hitting the rocks below as it plunges down 100s of meters! I also enjoy the sound of waves, especially the sound of waves as they die against cliffs. I hope that no psychoanalyst reads my blog, for I am not sure I want to know what it means 🙂

Ran into some folks I had met in the hostel I stayed in Floripa. A chat with my fellow travllers, a nice dinner at the hostel and it is time to go to bed, late by my standards, but hey, it is after all my last night in Brasil . “And all I ask is a merry yarn from a laughing rover and quiet sleep and a sweet dream when the long trip’s over”

Rio de Janeiro:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=248024&id=685148522&l=d43552c2e1
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=253759&id=685148522&l=f9527f8729
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=251252&id=685148522&l=85e6b975eb

Ilha Grande:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=272611&id=685148522&l=21df0ffb43

Angra dos Rios/ Trindade:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=278054&id=685148522&l=9f387f830f

Sao Paulo:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=278049&id=685148522&l=4fb9fd3506

Pantanal:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=279334&id=685148522&l=6b617f90e9

Brasilia:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=280533&id=685148522&l=fa5c859cab

Lencois/Chapada da Diamantina:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=280538&id=685148522&l=4440281ea8
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=282068&id=685148522&l=2eb69bba5d
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=281000&id=685148522&l=5445bc9511
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=280996&id=685148522&l=1ed5c4fc05

Salvador, Bahia:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=282066&id=685148522&l=174281fdd1

Ilha Santa Catarina:
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=283876&id=685148522&l=e2d26ade7e
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=284067&id=685148522&l=185a90acb8
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=284513&id=685148522&l=764493afa4
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=285087&id=685148522&l=28476e7807
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=285080&id=685148522&l=7cbabd8947

Foz do Iguacu (Cataratas do Iguacu)
http://www.facebook.com/album.php?aid=285689&id=685148522&l=1fe621cc70

Lagoa Conceicao to Costa da Lagoa

Barra da Lagoa, Hike from Barra to Praia Galheta and Praia Mole

Lagoinha do Leste

Joaquina

Florianapolis

Day 42 Sunday 10/10/10 Lagoa da Conceicao

As soon as I checked in at the hostel (30-odd minute bus ride from the bus station to Lagoa through a scenice route), I headed out to hike to Costa da Lagoa, a fishing village north of Lagoa Conceicao. It wasnt as much fun as hiking in Ilha Grande, because most of the trail goes past houses. Most of the houses I passed were big and rich. Santa Catarina is one of the richest states in Brasil.

After about 45 minutes, I ran into into Bruno, a Brasilian history teacher out with his family. His grasp of English, while better than my grasp of Portuguese isnt quite enough to carry on a conversation. We spoke in Spanish. We talked a lot about India. He brought up Caminos de India, which was a tele novela in Brasil. Brasilian actors and actresses played Indians in the soap opera. He asked how reality matched the portrayal of Indians in the series; he especially wanted to know about the caste system, arranged marriages, the poverty. While I was talking to him, it struck me that I am a cliche! An Indian engineer working in the US in IT. We said our goodbyes when we got to the village and I headed back, after a snack.

There was some festival at the city centre and I was lucky enough to catch a performance by the local orchestra for free. Followed that with dinner (moqueca de peixe).

Day 43 Monday 11/10 Barra da Lagoa, Hike to Praia Galheta and Mole

It was a beautiful sunny day and I, of course, headed to the beach. After about 30 minutes on the beach, I headed on a hike to Praia Galheta. It was extremely windy and I was all alone on the trail. I looked down at my shirt a while later and found it was inside out. My first thought was the wind managed to turn my shirt inside out! Beautiful views from the top of the mountain made braving the wind well worthwhile!

Galheta is a clothing optional beach. I didnt know that till I ran into a nude guy. I was quite taken back. The enquiry “How’s it hanging, dude” would have been taken as quite literally and superflous. However, the women on the beach apparently hadnt read the notice which said that Galheta was a clothing-optional beach. Sigh!

Day 44 Tuesday 12/10 Lagoinha do Leste

Another beautiful sunny day and I headed out on another hike. 3 days, 3 scenic hikes, 5 beaches. Dinner was acai com banana. The night found me tired and in bed early.

Day 45 Wednesday 13/10 Florianapolis

Since it was a cloudy day, I was lazy to get started and spent quite some time chatting with the folks at breakfast. The weather wasnt that great, with looming clouds and overcast conditions. I decided to spend the day in the city centre, which is 40 minutes away. Walked around city centre and booked my ticket to Foz. A delicious Japanese dinner at the hostel, followed by jazz concert at a local cafe. Enjoyable company, pleasant music wrapped up quite a lazy day.

Day 46 Thursday 14/10 Eating in Lagoa

My luck with the weather came to an abrupt and rainy end! I spent a restful day reading “The bishop’s man” and eatig a lot! Had lunch at a fantastic vegetarian restaurant. Dinner was acai, followed by a concert at the same cafe (Emporio Mineiro) where I devoured a torta de maca.

Day 47 Friday 15/10 Joaquina

The weather was much better and I spent about 4 hours walking – an hour hiking to Praia Joaquina over sand dunes. Climbing up sand dunes is a lot more work than it looks! I got back to the Lagoa in time for another tasty lunch at the vegetarian restaurant. Followed that by a chocolate cake at the Emporio Organico.

Floripa was the first place in Brasil that I found veg-friendly and had so many organic stores! I am sure Rio and Sao Paulo have their share, but I didnt run across them. It helps that Lagoa is so small!

Day 39 Thu 07/10

The bus ride to the airport is long and winds through areas I wouldnt otherwise have seen.

The flight leaves late, and they dont really bother updating the passengers about the reason for the delay. Arrive in Sao Paulo an hour after the scheduled arrival time. Sao Paulo is a shock to the system/ about 15 deg C and rainy. It was around 32 C and sunny when I left Salvador! The bus from the airport to the metro has to fight the rain and the traffic. I dont think I can complain about traffic in Seattle anymore after seeing the traffic in SP! But then of course, we dont have 19 million people!

Day 40 Fri 08/10

Having spent some time in Sao Paulo on this trip, I didnt plan on doing much. Spent a good 2-3 hours meandering through streets from the hostel to the centro, taking in neighbourhoods I had missed and some sights that I hadnt gotten around to the first visit.

Had dinner with Amanda, a native of Sao Paulo. We start at 21:00 which is close enough to my bedtime! Get back to the hostel past midnight. I quite expected to see my shoes turn to pumpkin!

Day 41 Sat 9/10 Sao Paulo

I hadnt been to many museums on this trip! Rectified that by spending most of the day in two musuems – Afro Brasilian museum and MOMASP (Museum of Modern Art), both in the Ibirapuera park. I had for company an artist from Buenos Aires, Pablo. We converse in Spanish and English as Pablo is about as comfortable in English as I am in Spanish!

The MOMAP was less than impressive, while the Afro – Brasilian museum was excellent! It had an exhaustive history of slavery and abolition of slavery. The pattern of African “immigration” to Brasil was interesting as well. Some of the paintings and photos were brilliant! It must be good to be talented!

Head home to face the prospect of another 12 hour bus ride to Florianapolis, called Floripa by all who are too lazy to sound out two extra syllables!

Day 36-38 Mon – Wed 04 – 06/10 Salvador, Bahia

Three days in Salvador. It isn`t pretty; it is dirty in places, it has the reputatation of being dangerous, many of the buildings look rundown. Yet, it has an energy that lures people back. It also is famous for its music and dance. Not to mention the Carnaval!

My second time here in Salvador, and I enjoyed my time again! My normal mode of travel is to get up, eat something and keep doing things till the evening when I am so tired that I plop into bed. On this trip, I am deliberately slowing myself down. To that end, I decided to take it easy in Salvador. Visited Pelourinho, Mercado Modelo, Barra over the 3 days and nights. Tuesday night though is street party night! There is a street party every Tuesday night in Salvador. Free music, 4 stages set up all over Cidade Alta in the old city centre, dancing. I danced on the cobblestoned streets of Salvador last night! In flip flops too. There were alot of us, dancing and following a band of drummers.The drumming was energetic and the dancers elegant. I cant dance without looking like I probably have a bee down my clothes, but that didnt stopme this time. Well past my normal bedtime when I got to the hostel.

The other highlight of my trip was the dance show at Teatro Santana by Balé Folclórico da Bahia! They play every night except Sundays and Tuesdays. What a show! I dont quite have the words to describe the show.

Flying to Sao Paulo on Thursday. 36 hours by bus and two hours by plane. Both cost the same! How I wish they had a good railway system.

Photos of Salvador

Day 30 Tue 28/9 Seabra/Lencois

A rough night in the bus. Didnt sleep well. Way too uncomfortable and the bus felt like a commerial freezer! Reached Seabra an hour late at 09:00, but it suits me since it means that my wait for the bus to Lencois will be shorter. There is nobody else in the bus station but myself, the people who work there and a few flies to keep us company.

Lencois is a really pretty town bordering Chapa Diamantina. A shower, a walk around for an hour and then it is time for bed at 20:30!

Day 31 Wed 29/9 Lencois/ Chapada Diamantina

After talking to my roommate, I decide to join him on a tour. We join 11 Brasilians on a tour to Cachoeira do Fumaca. We drive to Vale do Copao, a pretty village with a huge alternative air, and then hike two hours to the waterfalls. It is way too early for there to be much water, but the canyon is breath-taking! Lunch at the top is an apple and a mango. After a two hour hike down, it is time to have some sugar cane juice! It has been ages since I have had any and it tasted like nectar! Refreshngly cold and squeezed right in front of me. It cost a whopping R1.5!

Then off to anothe waterfall to swim a while. It is refreshingly cold. An hour of swimming, taking photos and it is time to head home.

I have dinner with a retired banker from Rio, who is interested in Ayurveda and asks me quesions about India. He didnt speak any English. We conversed in Portuguese and Spanish! I had Muqueca de Peixe, a typical Bahian dish. It was utterly delicious! I am by now used to how waitresses and waiters react to my broken Portuguese. A nice day to wash away the memories of Brasilia.

Day 32 Thu 30/9 Lencois/ Chapada Diamantina

I am all alone at my Pousada, run by Patricia and Rodrigo, and their adorable two year old. I decide to go on another tour – Morro do Pai Inacio, Gruta Lapa Doce, Gruta Azul. The group of 9 had 5 people from the previous day`s tour. I have conversatons with the folk, but it is hard work!

Start the day off with a short hike to a lovely waterfall and more swimming! Off then to Morro do Pai Inacio for some grand views from the flat top of the hill. It is but a 20 min walk up to the top of the hill. The view is very rewarding and the guide has some amusing tales to narrate.

Lunch, a per kilo buffet, was a pretty basic affair and then we head out to Gruta Azul and swim at the lake nearby for an hour. The water is clear and there are plenty of fish to see. Gruta da Lapa Doce is a big cave and we walk in it for 45 minutes. Limestone rock formed into cave by water.

I have dinner with the folks from the tour. Nobody speaks English, and I have another night to try out my broken Spanish and Portuguese. It is the birthday of one of the folks and we sing Happy Birthday to him in 3 different languages.

Day 33 Fri 01/10 Lencois

I spent a lovely day, celebrating turning a year older. 2006, 2008 found me in Central Park and Salzburg, while I took the day off work in 07 & 08 and spent it alone in Seattle. Carrying on the traditon of celebrating my birthdays alone, I hike out solo to Ribeireo de Meio, a river where the slippery rock form a natural slide. I run into an Uruguyan couple on their honeymoon. We get talking and they invite me to contact them when I am in Montevideo. People, including myself, are so much more friendly and sociable when they are travelling and away from home.

Swim, slide, swim, dry out on the rock. Repeat. After 3-4 hours, even I got tired of the routine as more people show up at the Ribeireo. Off to Lencios, where I have an acai to quench my hunger. It is too hot to do much and I retire to my room to read my Lonely Planet and figure out how much time to spend in Lencois before heading out to Salvador.

Dinner is aracje, another typical Bahian dish. I wash it down with an orange juice and head to bed, exhausted after a lovely day.

Day 34 Sat 02/10 Lencois

I repeat Friday, except that I had a 3 hour hike before heading to Ribeireo. Hike, swim, dry on the rock, followed by Acai for lunch. The only thing that changes is that I try a tapioca pancake for dinner.

Head to the bus station to buy a ticket for Salvador

Day 35 Sun 03/10 Lencois/ Salvador, Bahia

6 hour long bus ride from Lencois to Salvador. I am too tired when I get to the hostel to do anything but lie around after dinner. Dinner at a per kilo place was the most disappointing fare since I have been to Brasil. I had been to Salvador and stayed in the same hostel 5 years ago. It looks as if little has changed, except that Natalia and Inbal, the owners have moved to Bogota.

Brasilia

Lencois

Chapada Diamantina day 1

Chapada Diamantina day 2

Ribeirão do Meio

Day 28 Sun 26/9 Brasilia

Brasilia central bus station (rodoviaria) is huge and confusing. Have to wait an hour for the bus. I watch the crowds. It might be the Central west, but people didnt seem very frienly here. They also have the annoying habit of throwing things on the floor around them and not in dustbins. Arrive at the HI hostel in Brasilia around noon.

After a shower, I head out as the intrepid explorer that I am.

Brasilia apparently is built for cars. There are no bloody pedestrian walk ways! I like walking and I dislike it when cities make it hard for pedestrians. A mark against the city. I tell myself that I am in the city to enjoy the architecture, mostly Oscar Niemayer’s creations. After wandering around for a while, I head to the food stall near the Torre del TV to have some Açai. This time it is natural, and the lady feeds me a big bowl! Off then for more walking – museum, Metropolitan cathedral all the way down to Praca dos Tres Poderes. By the time I got back to the hostel, my feelings for the city are not very kiind and I decide to leave the next day for Lencois.

Run into a very nice chap from Fortaleza who is in town for an interview for his master’s degree and have an enjoyable conversation. The only enjoyable thing outside the Açai and the architecture.

Day 29 Mon 27/9 Bus from Brasilia

I pack and head to the bus station to purchase my ticket. I find that I am R600 (USD 400) short. Someone stole the money from my bag when it was in the locker. I last checked it in Campo Grande and I have been tracking my expenditure. I think that the key to my locker must have fallen down from my pocket while I was asleep and a roommate had the audacity to use the opportunity to his benefit. The %¨%$$ bastard also stole my torch (flashlight). I am a bit sad, but it is too late to do anything and while I have a suspect, I have no proof! It spoils my day and doesnt help my memories of Brasilia.

I finally manage to purchase the ticket, but feel very tired. I have been very careful with my things and surroundings. Also been pretty careful with my money. I can only rue my misfortune. The loss of $ means I leave Brasil a week early; I’ll have to skip a 2-3 day trek in Diamantina. Oh well, c’est la vie.

My mood is improved by the helpful dealings of a couple of Brasilian strangers, one a very pretty lass 🙂 I remind myself not to be soured by the experience and comfort myself with the fact that it could have been worse! I only lost some cash. My documents are intact.

The bus left the station late cos someone had enormous amount of luggage. Then we got stopped for an hour by the Federal Police while they looked at documents of all the passengers. Twice this trip I looked dangerous enough to be stopped 🙂