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Tayrona park

Thursday, July 7th, 2011

Day 287 Wed 15/6

The taxi (a jeep) from Taganga to Tyrona took about 2.5 hours! Picking up folks in various hostels, stopping to allow folks to withdraw money and then a stop at a local shop. Tayrona park is pretty expensive – the entrance is about 35,000 CoP and lodging and food more expensive than outside.

We arrived at entrance around 12:30 – 1pm and started our slow trek to Cabo de San Juan, stopping for photos, lunch and ice creams enroute. The girls and I were joined by 3 Italians living in Ireland.

Tayrona wasnt in my original itinerary, but I am glad that the girls managed to convince me. Paradise doesnt quite cover it. Lovely beaches with a nice trail connecting them. The only problems are the mosquitoes and that one cannot swim at all the beaches as some of the currents can be quite treacherous. There were signs warning people not to become part of the statistics of the number of people who have drowned trying to swim at a couple of beaches.

Arrecife offered the first set of cabañas, hammocks and tents for visitors, but it was expensive and the nearest “swimmable” beach 20 minutes away. We decided it was well worth the effort to walk another hour to get to Cabo de San Juan. We braved the heat and the humidity to trudge along. However, by the time we got there, it was too late for all of us to have the choice of sleeping in hammocks. The girls took the only 2 hammocks available and the guys took two tents, with Darrio and I sharing one.

Shower and time for dinner. We had crackers, tuna and some fruit. The cheese and meat that the Italians carried with them from Taganga looked pretty bad after 6 hours in the heat!

Neither Darrio nor I got much sleep. It was too hot to sleep with the flap closed and the mosquitoes made life unbearable with the flap open. We even tried the beach, but not much helped. I managed a couple of hours of sleep around 3 am.

Day 288 Thu 16/6

The day was spent swimming, resting at the beach, going on a couple of short walks and chatting with folks. It was a nice, relaxed day. The girls managed to procure a cabaña for the night and the view from their cabin was well worht the price they paid for it. They invited us all up for a look and to watch the sun go down. However, lighting and thunder were our companions that evening, but still offered stellar views. We looked out into the ocean knowing that Mexico was on the northern end of Carribean on lines we could draw from where we stood!

Slept well on the hammock, the mosquito net proving quite useful! The only bite I had was when I had to get out of my hammock to pee in the middle of the night.

Day 289 Fri 17/6

More time in the water and the beach and it was time to say goodbye to the girls. The Italian lads were heaidng back to Tayrona as well, since they were short on time. It is never fun to say goodbye to people whose company one enjoys, but it is after all the life of the traveller: after 10 or 11 days, it was time to part ways. The girls were going to spend a couple more days at Tayrona and then head to La Guajira, the peninsula.

Hike back to the parking lot where Jose was waiting for us. We had to run the last few kms or so to make it just in time.

Had dinner with the lads and headed to bed at midnight, prepared for the 5 day trek that I had been looking forward to since I had read about it during my research well over a year ago!

Taganga

Thursday, July 7th, 2011

Day 285 Mon 13/6
Breakfast and it was time to start the marathon journey. I had stayed away from overnight journeys in Colombia since the Colombian buses are nowhere as comfortable as the ones in other South American countries I have been to, bar the ones in Ecuador. This time, there wasnt much of an option unless I wanted to spend a day in Bucaramanga. However, following the advice of a local that there wasnt much to hold a visitor there, I decided to brave the overnight journey. The girls were headed to Tayrona park and we decided to continue all the way to Taganga.

The bus ride from Barichara to San Gil was short and I fell asleep. After a wait of an hour, we boarded the bus from San Gil to Bucaramanga. The windy road makes it one of the most dangerous roads in Colombia, while also one of the most picturesque! The cañon (I forget the name) was breathtaking and my photos did it no justice! Arrived around 6pm at the bus terminal in Bucaramanga and decided to take the 10:30 pm bus to Santa Marta. The torrential downpour discouraged us from exploring the city and we spent the time at the bus station, eating dinner and Cynthia sharing photos of her trip to Mexico.

Day 286 Tue 14/6
The bus was full! The ride was comfortable and I slept well, with interruptions, however. We reached Sta Marta around 7 am. By the time we caught a taxi to Taganga and settled in at the hostel, it was time for breakfast. Shower and off to the beach. Taganga was once a laid back fishing village. It no longer bears much resemblance to that! It is full of tourists, which is surprising since the beaches werent that pretty! I spent the day swimming and relaxing with the girls on the beach. Such hardship lying on the beach!

The only thing of note was that I arranged my hike to Ciudad Perdida (the lost city), home of the Tayrona people for a while, before they left it. The Spanish never made it there, but the people left it when the conquerors arrived to nearby villages. I was lucky – the price of the trek would go up by 100,000 CoP (about 60USD) in a day or two as the high season were to set in, to coincide with summer vacation for the school-children.

Colonial gem – Barichara

Wednesday, July 6th, 2011
Day 282 Fri 10/6 An early breakfast at a hostel right across the street (where we cursed ourselves for not staying there), a walk around town and we were off to Barichara. Franck and Becky meant to get on a bus ... [Continue reading this entry]

San Gil

Wednesday, July 6th, 2011
Day 281 Thu 9/6 Breakfast was at the French bakery. Then the 5 of us squeezed into a taxi for what should have been a 4 hour ride to San Gil. However, a truck had fallen off the cliff when the ... [Continue reading this entry]

Villa de Leyva

Sunday, June 26th, 2011
Day 274 Thu 2/6 Woke up early to go for a walk around Bogota. Also visited the ATM to replenish diminishing funds. Got a bus to Tunja in pouring rain from Portal del Norte. 2 hours to Tunja and a collectivo ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bogota

Friday, June 10th, 2011
Day 269 Fri 27/5 A long day that started at 5:30 am. Got to the bus station around 07:30 and had to wait till 08:20 for my bus. The ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pablo Escobar’s old haunt – Medellin

Saturday, May 28th, 2011
Photos of Medellin Medellin is the second largest city in Colombia and was the haunt of Pablo Escobar till he was killed. These days, it is safe and attracts a lot of tourists. I enjoyed my stay here and fell ... [Continue reading this entry]

Salento

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
260 Wed 18/5 - 262 Fri 20/5 I left early Wednesday morning. Well, at least, I left the hostel early. The bus continued the tradition of Colombian buses leaving late from the terminal. We left an hour late and made it ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cali

Wednesday, May 25th, 2011
257 Sun 15/5 - 259 Tue 17/5 Photos of Cali Got into Cali after a fairly comfortable 3 hour bus ride from Popayan. The taxi driver who drove me to the hostel tried to cheat me by asking double the price. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tierradentro

Friday, May 20th, 2011
250 Sun 8/5 & 251 Mon 9/5 Photos of Tierradentro I got on a bus from Popayan early in the morning for what was supposed to be a 5 hour journey. However, the elements were against us. There was a landslide ... [Continue reading this entry]