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learning to bargain

Thursday, April 5th, 2007

            We’re leaving Indonesia/Bali, but our Asian section of our trip is just beginning. Of course, things are very different here compared to NZ and AUS, which were both typical first world, western countries. For much of the rest of our trip, we will be immersed in cultures that are completely different from what we are used to. It will require (and already has) quite a bit of adjustment on our part, but I’m looking forward to India and Southeast Asia.

            We’re still not sure where we’re going after we leave this area of the world. There’s a possibility we could be here for the rest of our trip. We’ve also discussed flying to Istanbul in Turkey, crossing the Bosporus into Europe and making our way north through eastern Europe, towards Scandinavia, before flying home. This week, Paul got us thinking about a North Africa trip, starting in Cairo, Egypt and working our way west, through Tunisia, Libya, and Algeria and ending up in Morocco. I hadn’t given much thought to that section of Africa, but, compared to the rest of the continent, those countries are stable and safe, and the trip sounds like quite an adventure. It’s something we’ll have to think about and look into further.

            I think we’ll be going to Nepal. Anna’s mother wasn’t too keen on it, having read the State Dept warnings about the instability caused by Maoist insurgents, but most of that has died down since the Maoists entered the Nepali parliament. Also, on her way to Bali, Anna’s mother spoke with a mountaineer on his way to Nepal to climb in the Himalayas, and he said what we’ve heard before, that Nepali insurgents don’t target westerners and tourists, because tourism is one of their only economic strengths. Nobody wants to slaughter the golden goose.        

            The next big decision, then, is when to go. Should we see India first, and then visit Nepal, or should we head straight for Nepal and then see India. The trouble is the weather. In May, India and the low areas of Nepal get very hot, like 45 Celsius, which is something like a billion degrees Fahrenheit, I’m not exactly sure. After the heat, in June, the monsoons begin, starting in the south and working their way north. Should we use April to see southern India and head for the Himalayas when the heat hits in March, or should we go straight into Nepal when we know the weather will be nice and do what we can of India later, leaving when we get too miserable? It’s a tough question, but like most of the rest of our dilemmas, it doesn’t really matter what we choose. We’ll be happy either way.

            In Bali, we got our first taste of haggling, which I find both fun and exhausting. Walking through the markets, a person is accosted by vendors from every direction, all saying, “come inside, take a look, I give you cheap price.” Two days ago it rained for much of the day, so sales were way down for the vendors in the Ubud market. There were bargains everywhere, because the people needed to sell something just to have enough money for the day. The average daily income in Bali is 30,000 rupiah, which is about 3 bucks US, so most people are extremely poor anyway. Sometimes it seems a bit crass to haggle over $1 or $.50, but that’s how things are done. Those dollars add up and the vendor won’t agree to a price if they aren’t making enough. The strongest tactic that a person has as a buyer is to walk away. We usually offer our final price, and if they vendor won’t accept, we walk away. About 9 times out of 10, they vendor will say, ok, ok, and we’ll get the price we asked.

keeping busy

Wednesday, April 4th, 2007

            Bali has kept us busy, even though we’ve stayed out of Kuta and we haven’t gone to the beach once. I’ve done about all the shopping and haggling I can stand for a few days and I’m ready to leave tomorrow, which is convenient, because we do.

            We took a cycling eco-tour today, which was much better than I’d expected. It was designed to give some insight into Balinese culture and Balinese ecology. We visited a plantation and our guide, Darma, showed us some of Bali’s native plants and told us their uses, be they medicinal or edible. We tasted some Balinese coffee and afterwards were in a small gift shop when one of the salesmen tried to sell us some. I told him we’d been in Guatemala recently and had bought some there, so we didn’t need any, and he invited us to compare the two. Unfortunately for Bali, Guatemala’s coffee is much better, although I didn’t tell the salesman this. Balinese coffee is bitter, too much for my taste.

            After the plantation, we hopped on bikes and coasted downhill for a while. We stopped and visited a Balinese housing compound, where generations of a family live together, aunts and uncles, grandparents and grandchildren. We’d visited Putu’s home (our previous tour guide) and it was interesting to see the contrast between his home and the more typical home we saw today. Putu’s family is dong well for themselves.

            Our tour finished with an enormous feast, with all of the best Balinese and Indonesian foods: smoked duck, satay, fried noodles, gado-gado, and peanut sauce made from real, fresh peanuts. The peanut sauce here is phenomenal. I could eat it alone.

            Us Minnesotans may like to pride ourselves on our niceness, but the truth is, people are just as nice and even moreso the world over. In Guatemala, we were invited into a stranger’s home for 10 days and treated like part of the family. In NZ, we subsisted on the kindness of strangers and here in Bali, the people are warm, friendly and easy-going. All day today, as we passed children and working people, they would smile and wave and say “hello!” to us. Minnesotans are nice, but we don’t have the market cornered.

bali: this time we’re ready for the tropics

Monday, April 2nd, 2007
As I stood at the top of Mt. Batur and watched the sun rise over Lake Batur, the Indian Ocean and several other volcanos this morning, I was thinking of my father, whose birthday was yesterday. We, meaning Anna and ... [Continue reading this entry]

an old entry I forgot to post

Saturday, March 31st, 2007

            When you land at an airport, clear customs and are trying to figure out how to get to a bed as quickly as possible, there’s something comforting about seeing a guy holding a sign with your (or ... [Continue reading this entry]

where women glow and men plunder

Wednesday, March 28th, 2007

    I keep thinking that for all the crap the rest of the (western) world likes to give the US for being the biggest polluters and consumers and going on our silly military adventures, they sure ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sydney

Monday, March 26th, 2007

    For a city, Sydney is a pretty cool place. I’m not all that much of a city person, and Lord knows Anna isn’t, but we’re having a good time here. I think we’ll be ready to leave ... [Continue reading this entry]

planes, trains and buses

Saturday, March 24th, 2007

            Travel days are always exhausting. You get to the airport hours before your flight leaves and the airport people ask you all sorts of semi-accusatory questions like “do you have any flammable materials in your luggage?” Me, ... [Continue reading this entry]

mmmmmm . . . pancakes

Thursday, March 22nd, 2007

            Today was a fine day. The rain from yesterday cleared and the sun was out for most of the day. We followed the west coast north, to Punikaki (my spellings of NZ town are terrible and I’m ... [Continue reading this entry]

last days

Wednesday, March 21st, 2007
As our last days in NZ are slipping away, we’re busy trying to make the most out of the time we have left without driving ourselves crazy. We left Queenstown yesterday and drove north through the Crown Range and then ... [Continue reading this entry]

hiking the Rees/Dart track

Tuesday, March 20th, 2007
Ok. It's been a while since I've written, so I've got a lot of ground to cover. This will be a long post. Click on the link below if you want to read it all . . . After I posted ... [Continue reading this entry]