Why I Didn’t Marry Heath Ledger

My flight karma has run out. I’m sure it’s my fault for bragging about our AWESOME seats on the trip to Oz. My return flight is COMPLETELY full and I couldn’t have picked a worse seat if I tried. As mean as I thought they were when I reviewed them, I REALLY wish I had some knee defenders now.

The people in my row turned out to be better than I thought they would be, but the woman sucked her teeth really loudly. I thought smacking was the most annoying thing in the universe, but the teeth-smacking takes the cake.

I’ve been Selected for a Special Security Screening, which is denoted by an SSSS on the bottom right hand corner of your boarding pass. Sounds like I’ve won something, huh? Not quite. That means I went through the normal security screening and pat down in Sydney, then I went though customs and a screening in LAX (as everyone does) but I also got another pat down and all of my belongings searched and checked for explosives traces. That’s cool. I’m a big fan of security. I still managed to get a much earlier flight, as I walked up to the gate and requested standby 20 minutes before the flight left. Allrighty. Then I got to DFW and there was ANOTHER flight leaving about 20 minutes after I arrived. Cool, maybe I’ll get lucky and get standby again. I went to the desk and they informed me that I needed to be screened, searched, patted down and explosives screened yet again. How was I to pick up anything suspicious in the air between Los Angeles and Dallas? I’m not exactly terrorist material, so I still don’t get it. But despite the excessive screening, I made the earlier flight. My bags didn’t, but me arriving in places without my gear has become the standard for this trip. Luckily, I live about 20 minutes from the airport and I can pick it up later.

Sadly, this marks the end of my journey and this blog. I had a wonderful time in Oz and am already planning my return trip to Wwoof around the country, just as soon as I make it to Antarctica, Kilimanjaro and teach English is Southeast Asia for a year. Not that I’m ambitious or anything. Just a nomad.

– Carrie

What do you do with your last day in Oz? If you’re me, you go surfing. I’m hooked like a crackhead. I didn’t get up much on this run, but it was the greatest way to spend my last few hours. Now I’m bruised all to hell from the board, but I have a pretty decent January tan. Not many other people were getting up either, and I think I had the bad part of the beach (based on the fact that no other surfers were close by). I LOVE that I looked like I knew what I was doing with my Rashie and my Board Shorts. The water was INSANELY cold, as it was the entire time in Sydney. But now I’m confident I can attempt surfing anyplace I go in the world. That’s another check on the “Things Carrie Has to Do in Her Life” list. Yeah.

To get to the airport, I, of course, took the Manly ferry. It was cold and windy for a summer day, but I started the trip determined to sit outside and enjoy my last ferry ride in Sydney. My resolve weakened when the boat started rocking and I was splashed with spray from the harbor. Too cold for that. I went inside and shut the door. Immediately, a lonely old man began talking to me. I’m not sure what most people do in that kind of situation, but I let him talk. I have to consider it some sort of “pay it forward” for the day when I’ll be a lonely old woman talking to strangers on the ferry. In retrospect, I should have recorded every word that man said. He spoke rapidly and forcefully, as if he were trying to convey a lifetime of wisdom in the 30 minute ride. Most of his advice was sound, and well known:

Get your exercise. His old running coach told him over and over how endorphins make you feel better. That coach dropped dead at 80 from lung cancer.
Write letters to your family. They’re way more personal than receiving an email. Maybe I’ll start sending my Mom postcards from abroad. She could keep them in a notebook or something.
When everyone in your surroundings is well, you feel better. Take care of your fellow man and you’ll be rewarded with a clear conscious.
Keep a journal. Only write one line each day including the greatest thing that happened to you. Even if your day was crap.
Be careful about travel. After you’ve been traveling a few years, you can’t settle down to real life like normal people because it’s all too sedentary.

I have to agree with them all, particularly the last. Unfortunately for me, I already crossed that threshold. The man was hard to get away from. He followed me off the boat and down the pier. I was running late, but I just couldn’t be rude. I finally escaped with thanks from him and the knowledge that I can always go back to find him on the Manly ferry. You should always listen to people, you never know what you’ll learn.

– Carrie

As I think I’m a rock star about half the time, I was SUPER excited about our Sydney pub crawl. And one of the beautiful things about staying with a friend is that your wardrobe options are expanded beyond the things you crammed in your backpack. Heather had me looking like I belonged in the snazzy Sydney bars with a little help from her extensive clothing options. For the first time on the trip, I felt like a real girl.

We got dolled up and hit the town. I’m pretty sure I had more boys check me out in the 2 minutes we spent RUNNING to the ferry in skirts, strappy shirts and high heels than I did the rest of the trip. You can’t miss the ferry.

We started off the night at the Art Bar downtown. It was a really chilled-out place to meet up with friends and have some drinks. Some sort of party was getting geared up downstairs, but the bar was mellow. I know Hugo’s buddy got an ego boost telling the bouncers “They’re with me,” thus getting us past the security line. Elizabeth, Heather and I decided our best bet was to split bottles of Shiraz for the evening, so we got started. As far as I’m concerned, it’s always a good idea to get your booze in larger quantities. See the ONE GALLON Diver from Silky O’Sullivan’s in Memphis or New Orleans (if it’s still there).

Post Art Bar, we made our way to Darling Harbor to Bungalow 8. It became clear that splitting drinks was a fantastic idea, considering how long it took to get to the bar. The girls made our way a few doors down to another bar that has a reputation of being “exclusive.” They let us in. Surely Heath would be here, if anywhere. No Heath, but tons of Aussie hotties were in the house. Unfortunately, many of them had the bad sense to have their shirts unbuttoned halfway down their chests like some sort of Miami Vice throwback. Weird.

The boys couldn’t get in, so we met them downstairs.

Not really my normal scene, but it was a good time. It’s good to know I can fake snazzy enough to get in to the good bars.

– Carrie

The weather was a little sketchy for my last full day in Oz, so I didn’t get my “full on” beach day. We got up and had a yummy breakfast at the Barking Frog in Manly. Elizabeth took off to the city and Heather, Hugo and I headed out for a bush walk in the Sydney Harbor National Park. That makes for a pretty decent hangover cure. After lunch, I decided to take off my surfing training wheels (otherwise known as the foam board) for a 7’1″ monster of a fiberglass surfboard. Those puppies are as slippery as an eel. I finally now the real reason for Sex Wax (Hehe). It’s not just a funny name to laugh at, it’s to rub on your board so you don’t slip off. Hmmm. I did manage to get up a few times even though the waves were crap. Apparently that’s more than the girl who owns the board can say.

Want to know how to leave Sydney with a bang? Watch the moon rise from the top of the Harbor Bridge.

After a rushed dinner with Elizabeth at Circular Quay, I sprinted to the Harbor Bridge Climb in The Rocks. I can tell you now, if you’re looking for thrills or an adrenaline rush, this climb isn’t for you. It’s basically a photo op, but a very good one. But the views are spectacular. You can pretty much bank on getting the photo for your Christmas card next year. I also got an “I Climbed the Sydney Harbor Bridge” certificate to add to my collection of useless certificates like “Belaying Certified,” “Best Rookie Female Kickball Player,” and “Amature Mahout (elephant trainer), which was exciting.” I’m working on one hell of an I Love Me wall.

Before you begin your climb, you’ll have time to peruse the mandatory gift shop and photos of the bridge. Of course, that include celebrity photos with autographs. I found it interesting that they had pictures of Pierce Brosnan and Frankie Munez, but not of Paul Hogan. Hmmm.

North Sydney with Luna Park was by far the most stunning of the views with the creepy face and the pink and blue reflections on the water.

It was fun being in Harbor Bridge Climb Training and having my guide say “Oh yeah, you guys (the Razorbacks) had a really good year this year. That may have been worth the price of the climb in and of itself.

Here’s what you do. Stand at the back of the line. Listen to the guide’s commentary on the way up, then unplug your headset and enjoy the views without the distraction. They have fantastic stories, but you can listen to them on the way up and down.

At the end of the climb, everyone “jumps” from the 4 inch ridge back to terra firma.

I like that you can walk around Sydney at all hours with out much concern for your personal safety. That’s pretty rare in the United States. I left the bridge climb after 1 am and headed to the bus station. The bus back to Manly wasn’t bad, as traffic is minimal at that hour. Even though I was dead on my feet, I had to go see the beach at night one last time. Really, I have a thing about that. As always, it was spectacular, with only me and the gulls to witness. I think you should take any opportunity you get to see the beach at night. I can now pick out the southern cross. This is a big personal accomplishment, as I’ve always wanted to see the cross. Now I can check that off the list.

– Carrie

If traveling to Sydney on Saturday or Sunday, be sure to visit at least one of the city’s many markets. Paddy’s market in Chinatown offers the usual gaudy trinkets, while the upscale market in Paddington (on the grounds of a gorgeous historic church) provides access to loads of local artists, fresh produce, and trendy one-of-a-kind clothes. Today, I’m headed to The Rocks in hopes of finding some more original artwork. Afterward, it’s off to the nearby Sydney Fish Market where visitors can sample a variety of fresh delicacies, like mudbugs and prawns. Yummy. I can’t wait! Best – Elizabeth

Everywhere we go, the Christmas season is in full swing in Sydney. Beyond the traditional trees and trimmings, the summertime version of the holiday offers a few unusual treats, like a rolling Gelato stand pumping “We Three Kings” and the St. Mary’s Cathedral nativity scene, set in the middle of a skateboarding park. Love it! Happy Holidays – Elizabeth

You’ve got to love a city that actually has Emergency Beer Delivery trucks. But for a city built by rum barons, I’m shocked at the lack of Captain Morgan. I’m very sorry for the Aussies that they don’t have this nectar of the gods. Not that it would matter much, as drinks are really expensive and really weak. My advice would be to stick to beer or wine.

This week is the annual Sydney Week here in the harbor city. We got up at 5:00 this morning to hunt for the Hot Air Balloon Symphony launch, which was part of the festivities. We drove bleary eyed across town to the Parramata district for the lift off. I got out of the car to scale the hill to find the balloons and there they were through the trees. It was a really amazing sight to see the ten or so balloons taking off and tuning up the music. The music was pumped out of each balloon by speaker. At one point, they played the Australian national anthem. We followd the balloons like a pack of early morning ambulance chasers to the Westies area, a nearby low income neighborhood. People were flocking out of their houses with huge grins on their faces like kids on Christmas morning. There were two elderly women standing outside in their pink bathrobes and slippers and a man carrying his son in his pajamas.

We tore ourselves away from the balloons to head to breakfast and the markets. In Balmain, a gorgeous historic neighborhood, we dined on Green Eggs and Ham. They really do exist and they’re quite good. Pesto makes them green, in case you’re wondering. We visited the small Balmain market and headed to the popular Paddington market. The Paddington market was huge with lots of artwork. Everything is pretty pricey, as it is every place in Oz.

We drove to the Bondi area to check out the beach action. It was really crowded so we bailed, but not before viewing the aboriginal engravings at the golf course and visiting the cemetary with a view.

Cricket. We stopped by to have some drinks and watch an ammature cricket game. Strange baseball-ish sport. I still don’t get it. It was fun watching all of the boys stand around in all white clothing.

Now I’m writing this about 75 steps from Manly beach. Rough life, huh? I’ve go so many different tan lines I look like a Picasso abstract, so I’m hoping for a “full on” beach day tomorrow. I’m in LOVE with that expression. It means “all in,” with out being poker-talk. I think I’m going to keep it.

– Carrie

The Manly ferry, while arguably the most gorgeous commutes in the world, seems very much like a cattle stampeed when loading.

Heather, from the official BootsnAll Australia Blog, is being awesome to host us at her place in Manly. You couldn’t ask for a better spot to crash in Sydney. We started off the day with a short walk on the Manly Scenic Walkway, which passes a rock pool and a great fountain. Not a shabby way to get things cracking in Sydney. Elizabeth and I tried to tackle the longer Manly walk later in the morning, but gave up without success. We had bigger fish to fry.

• The Manly Ferry: People take this boat just for the views, with good reason. You get the vista of the city on the half hour trip.
• Town Hall: Not a huge deal, but a nice building. It’s right next door to the train stop, so it’s worth a look
• Hyde Park: Very pretty with a great fountain and location. We stopped and ate sandwiches like the locals.
• 360 Bar: Just below the skywalk in the space needle (or whatever they call the building). You don’t have to pay to get in and you can have (pricey) cocktails. Beats paying to go one floor up. I enjoyed drinkng up “Amanda Huginkiss” very much.
• St. Mary’s Cathedral: Sydney’s only cathedral. Stop in and be polite to the worshipers. No crazy dresscode like euro cathedrals.
• New South Whales Art Museum: Something like that. Mostly colonial (rather than aboriginal) art.
• Botanic Gardens: Beautiful green space in the middle of the city. We saw HORDES of flying foxes, which was cool. Excellent views of the skyline.
• Opera House: Very pretty (and crowded) outside. The lobby is just plain ole’ concrete. I didn’t spring the $26 for the tour.
• Circular Quay: The ferry port. We stopped for snacks and wine at one of the MANY cafes. Good end to the day.

That is actually a very do-able day trip. I hit all of the highlights so now I can have some real fun. That night we headed to the Crow’s Nest to some locals pub. We hit the hay early as we planned a REALLY early start the next day.

I’m sure Heath takes public transportation. It’s really a surprise we haven’t run in to each other yet.

– Carrie

It’s really hard to put in to perspective going from sleeping in a hammock on a giant sand dune with a fire in the fireplace in the middle of a national park to an apartment in a city of four million, but that’s what we’ve done. Today we said goodbye to Greg and Mick and made our way to the Ballana airport with our new friends Sea and Jay. It broke my heart in to a million pieces to leave.

We made part of another fence with our stolen posts in the morning. Mick and Greg were gone for most of the day, so we didn’t have much direction. I took a walk to say goodbye to the beach. This is something I’ve done on every trip to the beach in every country. That probably doesn’t make sense, but I’m compelled to do it. I was still the only person for miles. It was funny that the boys knew I wanted to “have one last look” at the beach.

I never want to forget the sight of the hammock chair under the full moon with the palm tree in the foreground and the rainforest and the Pacific below. It really seemed to shock everyone that I’d sleep outside in the hammock. I thought it was a great idea, until it started raining at 4:00 am and I had to head inside. Better than listening to the roommate all night.

We were lucky to have airport pickup in Sydney, as Heather and Hugo met us at the airport. We went for Nepalese food in Surrey Hills, which is quite good but impossible to distinguish from Indian. To me, anyway. It is suprising how much asian food and influence there is here considering the small asian population. There are as many Thai restaurants in a block as liquor stores in Sherwood. If you don’t have any idea where Sherwood is, take it from me, that means a lot.

– Carrie

I don’t want to leave Broadwater. Who would? This is the kind of place where you go to find things you didn’t even know you lost. At home, it is IMPOSSIBLE to get the solitude the people here have every day. You can’t get away from cars or jets or people talking without a huge effort. And I’m not even sure they realize how lucky they are.

Today was a pretty lazy day. We completed a chicken wire fence for some fruit trees Greg will be planting in the back yard. Those fruit trees will enjoy a better real estate location than 95% of the PEOPLE in the United States. Lucky trees. After, we took a bush walk in the adjacent national park and “lifted” some stakes for the fence we’ll build tomorrow and cleaned up a bit.

I spent the afternoon on a long beach walk looking for life in the tide pools. There is surprisingly little, given the climate. Apparently the beach is very dynamic and the pools may be covered and uncovered by sand on a pretty rapid basis. I guess I wouldn’t want to live there either. I did see a few crabs and barnacles and HUNDREDS of dead blue bottles (painful little jellyfish creatures) and nudibranches. Nudibranch may sound dirty, but its just a blue and white sea snail. It looks more like a fish, really. From the looks of it, there has been a nudibranch genocide in the Pacific. They were pointed out to me by a man who looked aboriginal and said he was part of the Watego family (of Watego Beach) fame. Nice guy. Weird running in to someone else out there. The rocks were the sedimentary remains of of forest.

I like the idea of walking on an ancient forest.

You don’t kill ants in the house here because they “help clean up.” That’s a little hard to adapt to, but I can roll with it. I can’t adapt to the curry caterpillars and the salad-pillars that keep popping up in our food. Not on purpose, that’s just the case with organic gardens. Broadwater is full of wildlife. We’ve actually had a phasagale, an endangered marsupial, as a roommate. I don’t mind him except that he’s a little noisy at night. Worse than a snorer. We’ve also had a close encounter with a wallaby, which is a runty kangaroo. He came to eat from the organic waste pile, which is created by throwing food out the window. Very hippie. I was thinking of the kangaroo/wallaby’s like deer that hop, but they’re really more like big ass squirrels. By that I mean that they’re seen as frequently as squirrels and much on things with their little hands.

– Carrie