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NEW YEAR’S DAY IN BERLIN

Sunday, January 7th, 2007

We enjoyed a late breakfast at the hotel, which included my first Pfannkuchen in Berlin. It was much breadier and not as sugary as an American jelly donut—a good thing in my opinion. We took a few hours in the apartment to continue recovering from all the alcohol we had drunk the night before, then decided to get up and explore the city one last time.

We took the U-Bahn to see the Victory Column and Schloss Bellevue, the Presidential residence. From there we took a bus to Brandenburger Gate. We were taking pictures at the gate area when it started to rain. Hard. Thus, for the second time on the trip, the weather directed our vacation plans. Peter had been saying for a few days that we should take a bus tour to get a better view of the city, and to learn about things that he couldn’t explain. I had resisted because I hate feeling so touristy, and I like discovering things on my own. However, the rain and cold and general fatigue set in, and suddenly a tour seemed like a good idea. Fortunately, we were right next to a Berlin City Tour bus stop. For 15 Euros each, we got a nearly 2-hour ride around the city with a live tour guide who spoke English and German. Some of the sights we’d seen already, but the tour helped us enjoy things such as all the new embassies in Berlin, Nikolaiviertel (a harborside street of shops and restaurants in East Berlin), a stretch of the Berlin Wall I hadn’t seen, the museums of Museum Island, and the opera houses.

When we got off the tour, we took the U-Bahn back to Ku’damm and tried to find a place to dinner. Nothing appealed to Peter near Wittenburg Platz and we ended up at Joe’s near Zoologischer Garten. Peter thought it was even less appealing foodwise. We ordered a drink while we pondered our options. I ended up trying a Berliner Weisse, a beer that came served in a Klingon margarita-sized goblet with a shot of sweet green syrup in it. The syrup is made from an old forest herb called Waldmeister–literally, forest master, but translates into English as “woodruff.” Not something one would find in the spices section of the local markets in America. I was shocked that this was really beer. What happened to German Rheinheitsgebot (German Beer Purity Law?) The first sip was appalling, but it got better after that.

Anyway, after we finished our drinks, we agreed to go back to Wittenburg Platz near Ku’damm where we had seen three decent looking restaurants. I wouldn’t eat Mexican food in Berlin, and he didn’t like the looks of the German restaurant, so we settled literally in the middle for the Italian restaurant in between. I believe it was called Mola. They had huge brick oven pizzas. Fortunately, Peter and I both had a hankering for the Capricioza pizza (ham, olives, and artichokes) so we split that and a salad (same procedure as every restaurant). I was still hungry after that so I also had the embarrassingly named “Heisse Liebe” (hot love): a crepe filled with ice cream and topped with hot cherries. The crepe wasn’t the best but it hit the spot.

SILVESTER (NEW YEAR’S EVE) IN BERLIN

Sunday, January 7th, 2007

We spent the day napping and watching TV to save our energy for the night’s festivities. We managed to see “Dinner for One” in color for the first time. For those who do not know, “Dinner for One” is a one-act play that was recorded, in English, for German television in 1963. The story is of a 90-year old woman who has her four closest friends over for a multicourse dinner served by her butler, James. The problem is that her friends have been dead for 25 years. James must play the part of each of the friends, and drink a toast from each of them for each of the three courses that are served. The drunker he gets, the funnier the physical comedy and lines get. The classic line is when he asks, “same procedure as last year, Miss Sophie?” “The same procedure as every year, James.” Ironically, nobody in England knows this play. But it’s as traditional in Germany as the ball dropping in Times Square in New York.

Anyway, we went to dinner around 7:30 p.m. at the Hotel Alt Berlin, a newly restored hotel near Potsdamer Platz. It was a small restaurant decorated with old photos and appliances (a plus for Peter who collects them). The servers were dressed in flapper dresses or tweed pants, suspenders, and caps in the style of the 1920s. The dinner was a buffet of fine deli meats, cheeses, canapés, soup, mayonnaise-based salads, two main entrees with sides, and three desserts. It also came with a complimentary rum punsch as well an aperitif. It was overpriced at 48 Euros each, but it was probably the best deal we could get for a dinner at a nice restaurant in Berlin on New Year’s Eve. And anyway, it was quiet and clean and we could relax and stay as long as we wanted there.

Around 10:30, we left the restaurant and walked up Potsdamer Strasse, past the modern glass towers that were the new homes to Deutsche Bahn (German Rail) and Sony and other fine businesses, towards the Brandenburg Gate to see the fireworks at midnight. Reportedly there were 1,000,000 between the gate and the Victory Column (Siegessaeule) for the concert and fireworks. Frankly, we never got close enough to count. We simply walked up Ebertstrasse until we ran into a crowd. Occasionally we could catch a glimpse of the Brandenburg Gate, but as it got closer to midnight, the crowd got thicker until we could barely breathe let alone see anything. Peter was shocked that people were setting off their own fireworks near the crowd up to an hour before midnight.

The official display was not as impressive as I thought it would be, but what there was we were in a great position to see through the barren winter tree in front of us. And maybe just being there was impressive enough. We enjoyed some champagne that Peter had brought in his backpack. The crowd dispersed remarkably quickly, the walk back to the U-Bahn was relatively easy, and the U-Bahn was not as crowded as I’d expected based on experiences in similar crowds in D.C. after fireworks and Presidential inaugurals.

SATURDAY, DECEMBER 30, 2006: THE HOLOCAUST AND THE WALL

Sunday, January 7th, 2007

We went to the hotel for our free breakfast. It ended at 10:00 a.m, but the hotel worker grudgingly let us in at 10:15 anyway. From there we decided to go back downtown towards the Reichstag. We ... [Continue reading this entry]

DECEMBER 29, 2006: FIRST DAY IN BERLIN

Sunday, January 7th, 2007

Arrival and hotel

After a nice breakfast for 3 Euros each at the Sleepy Lion Hostel in Leipzig, Peter and I drove up to Berlin. The roads were clear of snow and the drive was uneventful except for an “Unfall” ... [Continue reading this entry]