Rude Awakening in Hohhot (China)
In 1991, I traveled to Hohhot — a beautiful city in China that I never could learn to pronounce properly. At that time, the rule was that foreigners could not stay in the homes of the Chinese residents. It had never been a problem in the southern part of China if, as one of my friends said, “I didn’t come too often or stay too long.” But I found out that authorities in northern China didn’t feel that way.
August 17, 1991
I was rudely routed out of my bed at midnight by the police! They took me from Scott’s home where I felt warm and wanted and put me into a Chinese hotel since all the hotels were full of tourists for the Nadamu Festival. My blood boiled. My fist hit the wall in fury at the segregation and humiliation I had felt many times in China.
Russell explained that the north of China was stricter about the government policy of not allowing foreigners to sleep in the homes of Chinese people. Scott was angry and his family looked miserable. They had tried to convince the police that it was not comfortable for me to be in a Chinese hotel where no one spoke English, and all the hotels for foreigners were full. But, they were fined anyway. They wouldn’t tell me how much they had to pay.
August 18, 1991
We tried rowing on a very beautiful, large lake today, but there was a plant taking over the water that made it quite impossible to row through it. The effect was more like bumper cars with the other boats that were attempting to plow through the water too. We didn’t get too far out into the lake, but the day was warm and lovely. The colors of the water, surrounding mountains, and sky enhanced the backdrop for taking pictures. There is an arid feel to this area that reminds me of Israel.
Scott is making plans to join a joint venture company and start building a better future than he can have in teaching. He has a girlfriend he wants to marry, but she comes from another province. He isn’t ready to give up yet, but it’s very hard for two people from different provinces to get the government’s permission to marry.
August 23, 1991
Hohhot was an endless train ride from Hangzhou. We stopped in Beijing for some Peking Duck, a hot shower, and some sleep. As we were nearing the stop closest to Russell’s village, his eyes and face lit up with excitement. He said excitedly, “I am of this land. The land will not perish. I will not perish either.” I was glad to see his exuberance. Sometimes it takes going far away to appreciate coming home.
Tags: China, Hohhot, in 1991, Travel
