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Heading back Home – 31st October – 1st November 2007

October 29th, 2007

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Just before I set sail for the WhitSunday Islands- I was told that Dad had been given the news that he may need a serious operation. He wanted me to see the WhitSundays -before I came home. Mum Dad – Sara many many thanks for your honesty in encouraging me to stay just that tad bit longer.Did it for you Dad.

I am heading home tomorrow.

From Airlie beach today – Sydney – LA- then London – Manchester

Am I ready to go home ?– Yes and No.

I have been travelling 8 months now- and I am a little fed up about sharing rooms and living out of a bag . Yes I’ve had the most incredible adventures most of which have been amazing– but I have always been missing out on one bit that would have made it perfect . …namely my friends and family from home to share those special moments with me. I have so missed you all and Rosie my dog . I am really looking forward to seeing everyone again.

In saying that – I have met up with some friends from home who made the concerted effort to join me on my travels.. namely Sara and Geoff – ( wasnt it fun!!! ). Joan another mate was to join me in NZ next month ..but Joan I know you can do it without me kidder. Sorry we can’t be Thelma and Louise this time round.

The friends I have made whilst on my travels – I am sure that many will come into my inner sanctum of special mates along with the other fabulous bunch that I have at home. Namely those people who actually travelled with me or who spent time alongside me whilst enduring challenging experiences .Friends like like Cathy ( The Ashram ), Annie ( Everest base camp ), Emma ( Asia) -(by the way Emma well done on the pilgrimage girl), Heather ,Gemma,
( Asia ) Gordon , Lisa , Mark ( Aussie), and many many others. Cheers for the fab times.

Yep – I am getting ready in my head to come home. Weather here at the mo is a blistering 32. hmm that will be the first shock.

I have treasured every moment that I have been travelling – ups – downs – excitement – chill outs – and education. I have witnessed horrendous povety that has made me cry, I have seen ludicrous displays of wealth that has made me laugh out loud. I have met entrepreneurs, communists, socialists,former Viet Minh fighters,famous photographers,strippers,lunatics,lepers ,monks,miners,triathletes, genius’s,and accountants.
( how many former accountants choose to travel is beyond me….and most can’t budget)

Things I’ve learnt:-

Well never ever judge by first appearances- I’ve met millionaires who dress like tramps,old people who are young at heart, reformed drug addicts who I would trust with my most personal belongings , insecure beautiful women who think they are ugly, the mean the sad, the bad and the ugly( as in robbers and thieves).

Another thing I’ve learnt is that in dire circumstances- do your best to stay calm–shouting ,crying or screaming just doesnt change anything. It just makes you look like John Clees losing his rag. Over time I really had to learn to take deep breaths.. especially after being scammed , robbed and kidded so many times in Asia.

Dont worry about losing anything of material worth – anything at all..it can always be replaced-

Treasure a spectacular sunset or sunrise.

Never be frightened of a challenge- it can be the most exhilerating thing you have ever done

Go off road

Learn to stop..you dont have to be constantly on the move- staying still can be enough sometimes.

Make an effort to learn some of the local language.

Smile..

Take photographs not just with a camera but inside your head.Those memories can never be lost.

Make sure you pack earplugs and a silk sleeping bag,

Getting somewhere whether it by bus , tram , boat plane , rickshaw , van , motorbike, tour bus, raft, long boat,train ..is all part of the journey…

Thats it! I ‘m off…..yes I ‘m frightened and a bit anxious about my next journey into unchartered territory …but journey on we must ……

A special thanks to a very special friend who encouraged me to make this world trip….C I got up to see the Lions..and there are so many more lions out there to see …Thankyou.

Cheers to all who kept reading the blog and e-mailing me. Those e-mails meant so much.See you all soon

Karen / Yoz XXXX

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Paradise in the Whitsunday Islands- (apart from Airlie Beach)

October 29th, 2007

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Airlie Beach

Photies show – the German Girls -Twyla , Karolyn and Maria – debriefing after the trip – me in my figire hugging wet suit which is wet.., The Boat Summertime, Me on Whitehaven Beach , The Essex Girls, View of Boat sailing , Sunset over the Whitsundays – Goregous

This was my first experience of the East Coast of Australia. I had been warned that it would be a totally different scene from rest of Aussie ie. young and drunken travellers just partying. However the gateway to the beautiful Whitsunday Islands is either Harvey Bay or Airlie Beach. I landed on the 23rd Oct at Airlie Beach

Airlie beach

The backpacker accom was OK and I deliberatley got a double room to myself…Thank God!

Airlie beach ..how can I describe it..well its one road full of bars , restaurants clubs and Happy Hours. It is packed with 18-30 year old mobs . Dress code for young girls – short skirt..false tan , blonde hair and at end of night top hanging off.
Dress code for boys..long shorts ( Billabong of course- or Rip Curl)- no shirt- mandatory cowboy hat or Billabong peak cap. End of night strip off and run down road naked.

Everywhere there is the sound of a party whether it be 3pm or 3 am. I dislike this place intensely ..but I’m stuck..I had to be here for the sailing trip that departs to the islands for three days…I hold on..just..with my book ..and decent coffee.

I have lost count the number of times – young Pissed men have approached me whilst I walk along the street early eve – they then get a closer look at me ( obviously my mature look does not appeal..thankfully ) and then they veer off drunkenly in another direction. Horrendous. It is a cattlemarket..and apparently this is borne out by the fact that Airlie Beach has the 2nd highest rate of reported STD’s ( mum dad -this stands for sexually transmitted diseases ) in the world. Where is the first place I ask myself ???. No surprise there then.

I have never so much disliked a place. Trapped in hell.

Sailing the Whitsunday Islands

However this was all worth it when it came to leaving the Hell Hole and getting on the most beautiful sailing boat – Summertime- for a 3 day sailing cruise of the Whitsunday Islands.

The crew- Kristen – Dave and Carla were truly fantastic. The food amazing. The cabin space tiny..but the boat oh …the boat and the views. Glorious. True paradise. The islands are stunning and I am so glad I took the trip. Thanks Sara Mum & Dad for convincing me to do it

Whitehaven Beach

Considered to be the most beautiful beach in the world..and deservedly so.
The finest white sand in the world. Like sugar..it squeeks as you walk along the beach. Pure Silica sand which is so fine it wrecks digital cameras ..but rub it into your jewelery and it comes up shiny.

Beautiful crab trails in the sand – forming patterns I have never seen the like of. The sea ..a deep blue …what a sight. I stayed on this beach for a couple of hours..only downside being bees or wasps not sure..constantly going for my head and one manageing to sting me. A bit of pain to say the least..for those travelling here ( Joan ) remember to take take bug spray. Dont let it spoil the ultimate paradise.

At night on the sailing boat

The most stunning sunset ever and the prescence of a huge full sized moon made this quite an emotional experience for everyone on the boat. Photographs will never do it justice. World beauty at its best.

Kayaking with turtles

Highlights for me were kayaking in Luncheon bay and into the Mangrove areas. This was bloody hard going taking two hours on open water to get there and back ..lovely toned arms though. The wonder of this were the huge giant turtles swimming in the bay – suddenly appearing in front of the kayak- heads peeking up and then disappearing again. They are huge and so funny to see. I saw about 6-7 on the way in and around the boat from then on. They are amazing creatures and the larger ones are aged between 60 – 80 years.

Diving in the Reef
Blue pearl bay for me was one of the most amazing diving experiences I have ever had. Part of the Great Barrier Reef it is rated one of the top dive sites in the world. I took three dives on the boat – every dive a gem but Blue Pearl Bay was stunning. Gliding through coral maizes- multi coloured coral of every description and size surrounding you. At times it closed in on you to form a tunnel or cave. Fish of every description ( inc Kieran Reece …..Nemo fish…hurrah) it was like swimming in a blue aquarium. Huge rays , shoals of barricuda and huge Napoleon Fish
( these are my favourite – huge in size and actually have a face with big lips like Napoleon. )

Absolutely spectacular- and worth a thousand memories…The Whitsunday Islands are truly stunning.

Essex Girls

The only downside to this trip was that on the boat we did have to share- space – time and conversation with what can only be described as the nightmare to all true feminists. Apart from all the German girls who were Fab –including the gorgeous Maria, Melanie ( what time is it and where am I ?) , the wonderful Karolyn and Twyla and who were all fantastic company, we also had the pleasure of ..well as cruel as it sounds ..The Essex Girls!!!!!!!!!

In truth only one girl was from Essex- the others from Canada and a male version of LOADSA MONEY ( But not really ) from Australia ….and yes the true Essex girl did have long blonde hair, over tanned, and was well ..not too bright. ( see photie)
Her friends were all false tanned, wore make up …..even when diving and spoke of such important issues such as ..;-

.”so if you use this conditioner on your hair..it well ..conditions it….”

“what am I going to do without hair straighteners on this trip ?”….and…..

“Oh look ..the sea….”

“I like Britney Spears….”

I like wet suites..they hug your figure…. but they are wet!!!!!!”

I know I am being a tad cruel ..but their only interest was what music to put on – ( yes and that did include Britney )and to hog the water spa at the back of the boat..My opinion is that they thought the world revolves around them solely.. Am I being a grumpy old woman..Jan ?????

In saying that the company of the German girls was invaluable – thanks girls for being the one bit of sanity on that trip ..and for sharing so honestly our thoughts with each other afterwards ( not during the trip.). As Karolyn said …well at least we all know more about exfoliating correctly now!!!!

Hysterical.

The Whitsundays ROCK !!!!!!!!!!

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Tasmanian devils and sexual assault by a marsupial- Tasmania East Coast

October 29th, 2007

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Photies show A Tasmanian Devil ( they do exist ), Me on top of Mt Amos, View of wineglass bay from top of My Amos, Sea cave, The randy male kangaroo, The Famous Roz, Me on top of Mt Amos

I always say people make a trip – and the crew who joined us for the second leg of the East Coast of Tassie were brilliant and certainly made the trip for me.

Age Discrimination -looks deceive

Roz was the first of our new arrivals to join the bus at Davenport. Aged about 76-78 she clambered on to the bus in full walking gear- but obviously frail looking. You could sense what everyone was thinking…is she on the wrong trip ..after all this is adventure activity…if she is on our trip how will it change things ….the itinery…will she be moaning,…..” Roz puts everyone’s mind at rest when she pipes up in a broad New York accent..”That’s right Granny is here..but I dont walk..these shoes are for show..I just bus it…I just like the company of younger people ….not for chrisakes old people!!!! ”

ROZ

Roz it turns is from Florida – ( Old Old OLD Shambling people..says Roz ), originally from New York. She is travelling around Australia for 2 months. Her next trip is camping in the outback for 31 days crossing the interior of Aussie. She refuses to go on “Old people “trips…as they bore her to death..she prefers younger company….she more than realises her limitations. She will not walk any where dangerous – will not trek , but tells us to take pictures whilst she waits at base with her book in hand. She sees more – and has a laugh as everyone takes her under their wing. She is hysterical – realising she made a mistake in her first marriage after the 1st day..they stayed married 15 years.She believes the best rings are those from second marriages. Roz so made me laugh…she was a gem. I loved talking to her and hearing about her travel adventures ( she has been everywhere).

The funniest Roz moments for me were when she held court at the dinner table ( head of table ) and told hilarious stories, about the fact that everything in her apartment and wardrobe is black. She once cajoled a dry cleaning company for losing her black skirt. She found it days later on her black couch..camoflauged..she apologised to the company blaming it on her age. She shared wine with me – but prefers Vodka. On a Ghost tour of Port Arthur ,which was appalling due to the young guides inablity to conjure up any form of excitement or mystery in his presentation – Roz pipes up a little too loudly ” What is he saying ..I dont understand this Australian English…he should stick to his day job…”

Roz you were hysterical..many thanks for making it such a funny trip. Keep away from zimmer frames.

The others on the trip included the family of three Canadians – 2 sisters and their daughter Lisa. Great great fun. Then there were the two Irish girls Marie and Susanna great laughs all around and hopefully we will all stay in touch.

The East Coast

Warmer weather to the point that the sunscreen came out. The scenery was different again – gentler rolling hills – fields of tulips and flowers- stunning beaches – interesting gorgeous little towns. The highlight for me was climbing Mount Amos to overlook Wineglass bay. A hard hard trekk upwards and even hairier coming down putting holes in my trouser bottoms. The views from the top were stunnning – and so so worth it.
Lovely picnic lunches in idyllc surroundings and great company at night.

Tasmanian devils
I must make a confession . I thought these creatures were a myth or cartoon character. I didnt actually realise that they truly existed until I got to Tassie. As an endangered species they are now only found in refuges or animal compounds. They have been wiped out from the mainland entirely and only exist in limited numbers in Tassie. They suffer from a mystery face cancer that forms growths on their faces – and which has puzzled scientists for years.

I finally got to see a TASMANIAN DEVIL- and they are such sweet creatures… not… at all what I expected. They eat – well anything that is dead – bones included- but they are awkward lumbering animals – small in size and loud especially when fighting amongst themselves for food…( ears being bitten off in the furore is very common)- see photies.

Port Arthur

We stayed one night in Port Arthur. This was originally a penal colony and the church – town – prison etc have all been preserved. It is now a tourist destination offering tours of the town – and a ghost tour at night. This particualr ghost tour was a complete waste of money – and the only thing I was frightened of was Roz the mouth saying too much too loud. In saying that Susanna the Irish gal was hysterical with her own side version of the GHOST TOUR after a bottle of wine…hysterical Susanna.

I really didnt like Port Arthur. It felt very depressing and you could feel the weight of sadness seeping from the place. I thought this was just because it was a former prison -but I found out later that Port Arthur was the scene of the worst modern day killing spree in the western world. A gunman in the 1990’s went beserk – killing women, men children- holding the village hostage for about 24hours. He killed 35 people that day.

Very little is mentioned about the massacre- and we were warned in the visitor centre not to mention it …there was a high liklihood that the person you asked had probably lost somebody that day. How horrendous!!!

Off the record …we were told by the guide that after the massacre the village literally became a ghost town. People moved away , unable to live there anymore. Really all that remains is the old prison and buildings …for tourism.

No wonder I felt so depressed.

Sexual Assualt by a Kangaroo

At a particular animal centre near Port Arthur – they had hordes of kangaroos and wallabies – semi tame due to the fact that they were very used to be being hand fed by humans. You can get very close to them here..but one male got too close to me personally … for comfort..

We were watching two roos in particular acting very strange. The male suddenly tries to mount the female who brushes him off with the slap of a paw. We are all laughing – watching the male roo with his male member dangling down looking bemused. Suddenly he spots me and starts to hop over in my direction with big leaps …..his member dangling noticably below.Still laughing I back off ..but still he bounds over …then I start running as he hops over in front of me and blocks my way….-paws out and donger looking precariously close. I was actually very frightened at this stage and shouting for help as he is pawing at me and coming closer, I run quickly in another direction and he eventually backs off after I threaten him with my hand…..a slap in the face literally. This is to howls of laughter behind – with one of the Canadians Loius nearly wetting herself with laughter. Yes I was nearly raped by a male kangaroo.

On telling the guide afterwards – and saying that I was actually quite frightened by the whole episode – he said ..”oh its quite common…were you ovulating??

Incredulous I replied “mind your own business”

His reply ‘Oh well it must be because you wore a blue top ….???”

Yes I have wonderful and strange memories of Tasmania. Raw, beautiful and strange and so unpredictable.

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Tasmania- The Wild West Coast- Climbing in high heels- Part one

October 29th, 2007

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Photies show the famous Singapore couple (Lily hands up saying..but it too cold…), Ron Ann and me on top of Mountain Marians Look out overlooking Cradle Mountain- 1st ever snow for Ron, Lake View, Me at waterfall, Sunset in Tassie, Kayaking Lake Clare, Phil the guide and Ron on top of the world

I booked a six day tour in Tasmania- going from Hobart around the West coast then the East Coast back to Hobart.
Hobart is strange little town – very compact – but very very quiet. Everything appears to close early at 8pm ..and the biggest excitement is that it has a Starbucks ( how sad)

Tassie in High Heels
Before going to Tassie I did my research. It is the closest land mass to Antartica so you can imagine how bloody cold it was going to be. It has its own eco weather system – which changes by the minute ie. rain snow, hail, sleet and brilliant sunshine. The main attraction for me is that it is an outdoor pursuits mecca. Fantastic walking, trekking, mountain climbing etc…

Tasmania in High Heels
I packed carefully – walking boots , plenty of thermal and wet weather gear, walking gear – hat , gloves etc…So imagine my surprise ( along with the others on the bus including our guide Phil) when a couple from Singapore get on the bus wearing designer fair weather gear and she in BROWN HIGH HEELS and designer silk trousers.

The guide starts to inform us that – Tassie is famous for its bad weather- but regardless we were on an adventure tour and we would be walking rain or shine. Lily ( wife of Larry) pipes up in limited English..”you mean it goin to be cold..and I have no water gear…we thought it would be hot…I no walk in rain..”

Bemused we discover that the couple have been sold a pup by Qantas. They were told it was sightseeing bus tour of Tasmania, no indication of weather or what to expect. On these trips – you have to stay in basic houses or hostels – all help out with making meals – clean up after you etc…ie muck in. Phil gives them the option to leave and explains to them the nature of the tour and that they need the right gear. They make a decision ..they are coming with us.

It was hysterical- this couple it turns out are very very rich ( by Singapore standards.) He owns shares in a major timber exporting company – and owns three ships) . They have maids and servants at home. They are used to five star accommodation. Their daughter bought this trip for them thinking they would enjoy the warmth of Tasmania whilst they visit her in Melbourne????

They didnt have a clue what to expect and it showed. We were all expecting a tough time of moaning from them – but give them their due – they were great – they mucked in. Lily took photies of Larry washing up – carrying boxes from the bus…drying dishes…you name it. When we did the major hikes – they sat on the bus – played cards – and on one occasion went to the nearest visitor centre and bought us all fish and chips for our return. Very sweet kind and generous people.

I lent Liliy my jacket – spare hats – gloves anything so she could keep warm . When we shared time on the washing up, she told me she “never do this at home..my hands you know…”. When they left us on the third day – they said they had enjoyed the trip immensely…not sure if they were being polite or honest ..but they did have so many laughs with us and Lily demanded a photo with me “Kaara ..arent yooo cooold ……are youuuuu wet ?”

Well done to them for havin a go. Lily even manged half way around Cradle Mountain Lake in highheels!!!!

The West Coast
This is a raw and rugged part of the world . The scenery is amazing – going from rolling mountains like Wales, to huge outcrops and Peaks very like the Highlands of Scotland. For a part of initial journey we drove alongside the DERWENT River and places are mostly named after Bristish towns. We drove through sleet – and then snow. For one Aussie guy it was the first time he had seen snow. Highlights included:_
Driving alongside Lake Clare, Hells gate the entrance to Southern Ocean ,beach walks – a beached dead whale, huge sand dunes staying in places such as Strahen and Tullah.

We paddled at a lake at Tullah at sunset, ( worrying because coming inl lost all sense of direction) and next day climbed to Marians Look out to view the famous Cradle Mountain ( weather to iffy to climb the mountain itself). Hard work walking – and the weather was inconsistent but so so worth it for the views at the top. ( see photies at the top …with snow)

At Davenport we waved goodbye to our Singapore buddies and then next day said hello to a new lot of people joining us for the second part of the trip around the East Coast

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Marvellous Melbourne

October 29th, 2007

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Photies show- waterfront Melbourne- ST Kilda- Mark Lisa and Gordon on Pub crawl and View of melbourne

My apologies guys – whilst uploading photies of street art and wonderful other stuff – I DELETED MY PHOTIES. heres what I salvaged More photies of Reunion tagged on to my site in face book
Marvellous Melbourne

Loopy Bus Drivers
I arrived in Melbourne the
2nd October. I arrived by overnight bus from Adelaide- where the bus driver was slightly looped and kept going on about blocked toilets – and the fact that he would not ..REPEAT would not tolerate hot drinks on his bus. He spent 15 minutes explaining to us the H& S of bus flush toilets..far too much information. This was repeated on the hour – every hour – dear God the man had an anal problem I’m sure. He also didn’t know the meaning of the word OSMOSIS which I used in response to his unreasonable loud outburst in public when he shouted at me…… I apparently did not have a ticket to get on the bus – only a receipt for a ticket. I casually remarked in response “how was I to know??? via Osmosis??”

On returning to the bus with the correct TICKET in hand , as I was handing it to him he said in a very strong European accent..” I heard what you call me missy ..I am not an Arsehole…” I looked at him in shock then whispered ..the word I used was not ARSEhole but OSMOSIS..I wouldnt swear at you..he then replies ..’there you go again .. I hear you.”. more loudly from me ..”The word is OSMOSIS..O S M …..oh dear god forget it.”.and got on the bus with a fuming slightly demented driver glaring at me.

MELBOURNE-
A taxi driver from the bus station told me the folowing. The Aussies have a saying – “Sydney is the fast woman on the side – with a carbuncle on the face ( Sydney Opera House)- lots of fun in the short term…but Melbourne is the woman you always come home to, safe , friendly and always there for you. People are infatuated by Sydney ..they fall in love with city of Melbourne”

For some reason I love that saying and Melbourne did not disappoint me. I ended up staying for 2 weeks and I loved the place.
There are numerous markets – coffee houses- fabulous trams, and a city that is so easily accessible and friendly. It reminds me of San Francisco ( another of my all time favourite cities) and although the weather was cold and rainy at times ( it is winter here after all) I found my self out most days wandering the city – meeting friends, and enjoying the old ladies laid back atmosphere.

The street art is remarkable- although technically illegal – it appears that street artists here have a certain standing. The wall murals are stunning – graffitti to be sure … but amazing to see. In one place by the railway line – someone has constructed a lego man climbing the wall out of plastic crates. Fab .

It gives the city a vibrant artsy feel – and culture here is very much top of the agenda. Whilst I was there the Fringe festival was in full flow- and later the next week was the Indian culture festival. Federation Square , Melbourne’s very own modern carbuncle ( although I actaully love the shape of the new architectural buildings) has a giant screen showing the events or close ups of what is going on on the outdoor stage.

Whilst showing Mark and Lisa around when they came to Melbourne ( see later story) we observed the Asian Bollywood dance troupe session live on stage ..where half the participants were white caucasion???? True diversity methinks. Melbourne supposedly has the 3rd ( I think ) largest Greek population in a city next to Athens???

St Kilda
I moved to place called St Kilda – just 20 minutes way from the Melbourne City centre. Imagine an upmarket – Blackpool , but with gorgeous old houses- lots of good restaurants- coffee houses- cake shops – and ice cream parlours. It even has its own ancient theatre ( soon to be showing Bryan Ferry )- a fairground and a boardwalk. ( with penguins)

However the true reason I loved staying in St Kilda was the mixture of people. Drinking a coffee outside- one day I noted down the following:-here’s who wallked past over the period of an hour :_

Everyone appears to have a dog on a lead with a studded collar or designer coat ( on the dog)
Punks- with kilts and bad mohikans..aged about 50
Couple of prostitutes/ rent boys
Two transvestites ( or cross dressers)
Loads of travellers with dreadlocks
Loads of tourists with fat bellies and terrible dress sense
4 hippes
1 true hippy ( ie. aged about 60 still in tie dye)
Lookie likey Victoria Beckams ( 2)

All in all a right mixture of bohemium people – and I so loved it. I could spend hours ( and I did ) people watching here with a good coffee and a book.

Friends in Melbourne

For me – Melbourne became the place to catch up with the friends I had made on my travels around Aussie. Gordon the scottish buddy was fantastic meeting me on his days off to show me around his beloved town.

Gordon ( a true broad scot ) works as a waiter in a French restaurant, where the owners are Greek, the chef Aussie, and no one french works there !!!!!!!The pub crawl he took me on one night was superb. Most of the pubs in Melbourne ( some trendy some not ) have the Melbourne signature of huge old comfy couches. Some have open fires- may favourite the GB ( next favourite La La land) was a mixture of old Kitch and God knows what – but with tattered couches and tables scattered around a huge open fire. On my last day in Melbourne Gordon took me on a walk in the rain down Brunswick street..the most kitsch – trendy Camden like street ever…shops called “all sorts of s***t,” and ” The Nothing Shop.”.

Roast dinners with new friends – watching TV at Gordons flat, meeting up Jo from Perth for lunch on South Bank River , the famous reunion week end with Lisa ,Mark and the Mad German. All of this bred a familiarity in me – as though Melbourne was becoming like a second home away from home.. On leaving I was really really sad to leave.

The Reunion
Friends we had made in the outback travels – actually CHANGED their itinery to come to Melbourne to meet up with us. Lisa and Mark arrived bus lagged in the morning at 8.30am at St Kilda Base ..from the East Coast. They were met by the fabulous duo – Gordon and Karen at the start of their their perfectly timed Itinery of KAZANGEE tours. ( get it????)

Yes we took in the sights of Melbourne – yes we dined in pubs and Vietnamese restaurants ( OK Mark not to your liking). Yes we stayed in St. Kilda – yes we did culture – street art and marked the spot at a famous piece of art on the waterfront ( Mark again ) .
We observed the culture – wildlife and p head life of Melbourne. We even challenged the perception of most people of speech impediments!!!We met with the mad German and had an argument in the Victorian market ..she is German after all.

All in all a wonderful time with great friends- thanks to Gordon of ” Gordon Tours” ( affiliated to Kazangee tours) for the nightlife and to Mark and Lisa for just getting there. Precious times .

Thanks G and friends for giving me such wonderful memories of your old Aussie city. ( see face book – Karen Hughes for photies with friends and leaving Gordon behind in his kilt)

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Close encounters of a FURRY kind- Kangaroo Island

October 1st, 2007

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I took a 2 day tour to Kangaroo Island. This involved a two hour drive then 1 hour ferry crossing to the island. We were met by our guide Dee – who was so laid back she could have fallen over.

Pictures show me in a swag on Verrandah,sea lions at play , unusual rocky coast. boxing kangaroos, me, Unusual rocks, and two Kangaroos watching the sun go down

Kangaroo Island
Kangaroo Island is like a wildlife time capsule- separated from the mainland the wildlife that exists there has very few predatators and as a result flourishes. The beaches are beautiful- with amazing rock formations, and whole rock outcrops with wild sea lions and seals. We took time to view these creatures, walking amongst them at times and observing them at play- surfing the waves. Glorious to see.

There is a stretch of the island that has the eucalyptus trees that Koala’s love – hence a little community live there in the wild. We saw them asleep in the high branches of the trees and they are truly sweet animals. Lazy buggers apparently – just eat and sleep and copulate once a year -nowt else. Like most humans I suppose.

At night we stayed in a little cottage – very rough around the edges- but I decided to sleep outside on the verrandah in a swag. I love sleeping outside and I thought it would be my last chance to do so for awhile- besides I needed the space.

The cottage was set in a isolated piece of land with glorious views of the sea from afar. At dusk it was like watchig the Discovery channel- so many kangeroos- wallabies- possums you name it they came hopping around.

We had a BBQ and set a fire and at about 10pm all went to bed. I was toastie in my swag as tight as a frog in a sock ( a BT saying ) when suddenly I was aware that I was not entirely alone. Slowly peering out from under the flap in my swag I was face to face with a possum..

I jumped like hell, and gave a little shriek- but the little bugger just stepped back a bit – and then appeared to just shrug its shoulders and skipped off- non plussed. I started to laugh out loud – these furry things are so funny and sweet looking..and brave – I’ll give em that.

I settled down to sleep keeping an ear out – to hear him return later and make a God almighty row licking the fat from the BBQ, knocking over pans in the process you name it … all on the verrandah where I slept. Dear God more strange bed fellows.

I awoke with the sun just coming up. It was a lovely sight..kangaroos hopping about and the sound of birds singing. How wonderful. What a way to wake up.

I could have stayed longer on Kangeroo Island- but to Adelaide was where I had to return.

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Strange Bed Fellows- Hostel Etiquette- and missing knickers

September 30th, 2007

Whilst I can ( it’s a bank holiday in Adelaide and everything – and I mean everything is closed) I thought I would take this opportunity to explain to you about the various Bed arrangements that I have faced so far.

In Asia – Travelling and accommodation was relatively easy- ie. for a couple of quid in most places you could get a room with A/C – own bathroom in a hotel. For food – well you just ate out. For 80pence – one quid or more you could get just about anything, besides in most accommodation there was no option to cook your own food- no kitchen facilities.

Then I came to Australia and the whole business of travelling is a different experience altogether. Forget Hotels – far too expensive – on a par with Britain really so you are left with Kipping with friendly friends you have met along the way – or the HOSTEL.

HOSTEL ETIQUETTE

Ok so for those of you who have done this skip on – but for those of you haven’t experienced staying in a hostel …this requires – flexibility , patience of a saint and an open mind. Hostels either provide mixed dorms- single sex dorms, or double rooms . Most dorms have 6 beds ( 3 x bunk beds), but some which are the better hostels have 4 room dorms with lockers.

So what have I learnt???

Etiquette

1, If you are the first to enter a dorm – it is your RIGHT – to claim a bottom bunk – less chance of a nasty fall out of bed- this is the ultimate claim. Likewise if you are the last to arrive in a dorm you are usually landed with the least space and top bunk.

2. To claim a stake on space you – immediately make up your bed- sheets provided and throw around some least valuable items of clothing – this is setting up your territory.

3. Nightime etiquette after 10pm – requires that you read by own torch or night light. It is not etiquette to arrive in late – switch on all the lights – fall over drunk or wonder where your bed ladder has disappeared to. Whilst in Darwin – a guy came into my room steaming drunk and it took him 15 minutes to work out that his step ladder had been moved – with all lights blazing at 3 am. I was thrilled.

4. Copulating couples- it is not etiquette to copulate in the bed next to fellow dorm mates. Believe it or not this has happened twice in a dorm that I have shared. The last time whilst the amorous couple got it on – I decided to cough loudly and mumble something like ” Dear God….find another public place..some of us aren’t sharing in your excitement…” the rustling stopped abruptly and the couple left early hours of the morning ..no doubt mortified that we had all HEARD them.

5. You must be prepared to share with the weirdist people – and some lovely people;

Nicest people I’ve shared with – is most

Most odd

However I’ve shared rooms with people who SNORE, Talk , walk , shout and fight in their sleep. Very disconcerting especially if they are ranting on in German or summit. Earplugs are a must.

The oddest person I’ve shared with was in Alice Springs ( well it would be wouldnt it ). There was myself – Gordon , and a Guy called Pete sharing a dorm. Pete at first seemed very mild mannered and friendly. However the fact that he wore camoflauge ( cant spell ) army fatigues plus a hat should have given me a clue . Well actually he was always friendly, but he proceeded to tell us that his brother died recently and on his deathbed his bro turned into an aboriginal!!. He spoke aboriginal and sang. Dave ( from Norwhich) had come out Australia to go to Ayers rock to settle and calm his brothers aboriginal spirit. All well and dandy I thought..let him.

At 5am in the morning I was awoken to see Dave standing at the foot of his bed looking out the window. I pretended to still be asleep but couldnt help but hear his chanting and chunnering on to himself.

On enquiring how we was next morning he told me ” strange things afoot, these bloody aboriginals woke me up this morning, chanting and singing ..didnt you hear it?’

I smiled nicely and thought- what would a mental health worker say?…I said no I hadn’t heard a thing…..AAAAAAAHHHHHHHHHHH- was I glad to be outta there.

Cooking in hostels
Most hostels have fantastic kitchens and cooking facilities. So apart from the old trusty rucksack – you also trudge round with a freezer bag full of condiments eg. salt pepper – tea coffee, the staples to make a meal.

Some hostels have filthy kitchens – so you do not even bother to cook there

Thieving

So far I have been very fortunate with trusting dormfellows and travellers. Of course you take no risks, and lock everything and usually the most that goes is the your milk from the fridge . However I do have to report one loss that took place today at my lovely hostel in Adelaide.

I took great lengths annd money to purchase some goregous black silky knickers in Singapore from MARKS. So rare you get any form of luxury on your travels so knickers and a silk sleeping bag liner are my only luxuries.

Put my laundry in today – go to the dryer- to find everything there EXCEPT my 5 pairs of gorgeous black knickers. To most of you out there, this may not seem like the end of the world – and it isnt – but THEY ARE MY BLACK SILKY KNICKERS AND I WANT THEM BACK.
Mortified and knickerless.

Move on

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Opal Mines and dangerous towns – Alice Springs – to Coober Pedy – Adelaide

September 30th, 2007

So sorry chaps but I deleted all my photies of Coober Pedy and Adelaide by mistake on my camera. Thrilled to say the least – but use your imagination instead.

I took a tour still travelling with the scot Gordon to Adelaide from Alice via Coober Pedy.

Our guide was the hysterical one off called BT. She was an ex opal miner, had a voice like gravel – and looked as though she could handle most things standing on her head whilst whistling dixie. She was a hard case – and wonderful company. The drive from Alice to Adelaide is a humonguos 1600 km through well …nothing really. Pure flat desert only interrupted at times by a road house or bushes.

The only respite from this long journey was a place called COOBER PEDY.

COOBER PEDY
So imagine westerns of old- this was a isolated mining town where the men are men and the sheep are frightened ( not that there are any sheep..). It is the most weird town that I have seen so far. Most people due to the extreme heat live UNDERGROUND in houses tunneled into the sandstone . It is cooler undrerground and the temp is a constant 19 degrees. We actually stayed overnight in a hostel that was underground and that was indeed cool.

The town although not very old, is famed for its eccentric dangerous mix of miners and renegrades. BT our guide for the trip was telling me that she was a miner here and there going back 2 years ago. There is such a thing as OPAL fever ( this is what they mine- OPALS ) and you peg out a site and then well..dig. You either find nothing or make thousands of dollars if you find the perfect Opal stream. BT showed us the prize opal that she had dug up. IT was worth over 250,000 dollars but she hadn’t sold it – has it as insurance. She had the look of fever in her eyes as she described the finding of a “rock ” and she says one year she made absolutely no money the next – thousands and has bought two houses in Adelaide on the proceeds. She now works as a guide as she wants to get sensible. Quite a hard lady and amazing character.

The town itself is a flat, ugly town with a couple of supermarkets, an Italian restaurant – one bank and a police station. The houses are built into the side of the rock – and tunnels lead underground to bedrooms – fully fitted kitchens – lounges – you name it – just no windows and of course no natural light. I found it a bit depressing really and wondered what the suicide rate was in the town – no sunlight remember just a dust bowl above.

We had a tour of one of the mines and one of the houses. We were told by the guide that 2000 people live in Coober P, but the post office has 4000 registered ( claims) and the tax people has 400 registered. You are NOT alowed to mine in the town iteslef – only the outskirts where you see hundreds of earth mounds. However there was once a very lucrative opal stream in Coober town itself – so although you are not allowed to mine you are allowed to EXTEND your house ( ie tunnel more rooms out ). Needless to say – lots of people are ” extending” their houses in COOBER Pedy. Hysterical fancy walking into the wardrobe area in your bedroom and finding ..well a mine.

On the surface the town – was one big flowing DUST BOWL . I have never seen so much dust and grit. It choked you. God love you if you wore contacts.

BOMBS AND GELIGNITE

Until a few year ago the town was reknowned as being well ..a tad rough. Many films including Priscilla Q of D , Mad Max, have been filmed here due to its desolate look. Until about 10 years ago we were told that the men still carried guns – and sticks of Gelignite and God forbid if you ventured into their mining patch by mistake. 4 years ago a new police man was assigned to the town. He thought he would take it in hand. He gave two guys a parking ticket and caught them drink driving.

Next day in the town his police car had a stick of G thrown into it and well – it was blown up. The newly assigned officer left next day….The police station has been bombed twice. As I said no messing with these guys.

We had a meal in a lovely Italian restaurant opposite the hostel..but I noticed apart from us travellers – no women around ..they’re obviously at home patching up the mine sacks. yep this was ceratinly a man’s town…..

Adelaide
What a sweet lovely place. I like Adelaide- it is laid back and the YHA where I’m staying is fantastic. Shops , and a proper town and a chance to recharge the batteries . I am with a great set of travellers and I either join them on a night out or stay in read my book..usually the latter as its so rare you can do this. here I said tara to my travel buddy Gordon..I will miss that guy…very funny .

yep I like Adelaide sorry no photies for same reason…bloody annoying!!!

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Alice where the f#*# is Alice?

September 28th, 2007

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Photographs show Gordon –

1. Gordon rowing in the River Todd- 2. Gordon and the Trains of Alice Springs

3. Gordon leaning on a sign prohibiting Alcohol

4. Gordon showing the cultural walk of Alice- a tad confusing as points in both directions

5 Gordon showing the wildlife of Alice ( a shopping trolley)

ALICE SPRINGS
Oh My God Alice Springs has got to be the most hot – dry – boring – godforsaken town in the history of the earth. There are no springs in Alice Springs! There is not alot of anything in Alice Springs!

It is a flat town – that boasts of having a river – The River Todd that only flows ONCE a year. Other than that it is a flat dry sandy, dusty hole. And so is the river bed.

There are supermarkets, there is a pizza takeaway, numerous ART shops & galleries showing over inflated priced works of Aboriginal art – but sold , managed and owned by white people.

It has a cinema- with pre adverts before the film being shown ( yes I went to the cinema for summit to do) showing the JOYS of Alice Springs. This one is for my sister Elaine…it reminded me of Tywyn cinema when we were kids and I was expecting to see the 30 year old film of us in the advert for the swimming pool!!!!

Its saving grace was a bar called BOJANGLES with a live web cam which I made use of – thanks gang for those who tried to get to see me…..live

The other saving grace was a fab cafe that served goregous Baklava and coffee.

The saddest part about Alice was the Aboriginal People – found wandering the streets.

I have told you about this in a previous e-mail and my thoughts – but it saddened me to see this amazing looking race of people, reduced to wandering around aimlessly , arguing in the street, looking totally out of place in this shabby town. Police wagons with cages – regularly picked a person up off the floor where many had collapsed in a heap- due to alcohol drugs whatever. ( I saw this happen at least three times )

It was devastating to see. No answers but I did hear this from a guide called BT . BT was the guide who took us on a bus 1500km to Adelaide :_

Aboriginals dont count in numbers – they only have words for 1, 2 then many – which explains why many in the shops were at a loss as to how much to give in the shops – garages whatever ( saw thisa few times with frustrated shop keepers getting impatient with them )

1 in 5 are diabetic ( due to western diet)
1 in 7 have an addiction problem
Their stomaches are not made to take 3 meals a day- their culture thrived on insects – bugs bush tucker every three days
They believe education should take place at home – with the elders- not in schools- hence the lack of success of school programmes

Yes there is a great deal of crime – robbery – and seemingly violence- but all of this seems to be related to alcohol. In one area of the ULURU – no Aboriginal is allowed to buy alcohol- and if you want to buy alcohol you require a special permit.

As BT the guide said- why do we have to impose what we belive is right and proper on them ?- we have taken everything they had. Who needs the education here!

No answers – just what I saw in the Town like Alice. Terribly sad and difficult problem

We said goodbye to our swag friends Mark and Lisa and we were really sad to see them off to Cairns – but hey thats travelling. Despondent – left bereft in Alice Springs ,Gordon and myself had to entertain ourselves for two days in the dustbowl.

The photographs show what we got up to . says it all!!!!!!!!!

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PRISCILLA RELIVED – KINGS CANYON and Kata Tjuta AND THE ROCK !!!!

September 27th, 2007

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Photies show Me at Uluru plus gang , M at Uluru, sunset at Ayers with Nick’s cowboy hat, all the gang around campfire at night swagging it, M at Kings Canyon, Lisaand I KC, and the sad picture of the little baby Joey we tried to rescue..Lisa trying to feed him. sadly little Joey died ( see last e-mail I sent as Round Robin)

Last part of the nine days was with our guide Phil taking us to Kings Canyon ,Uluru ( AYERS ROCK)and Kata Tjuta.

One of may favourite films is Priscilla Queen of the Desert – which I was fortunate to watch again recently in Perth with Steve..thanks Steve

My favourite moment in this hysterical film – is when the three queens trek up KINGS CANYON in full drag . We trekked up the same path..and I kept recalling the famous line “Thats all we need a cock.. in a frock… on a rock.. ”

This canyon and views – are spectacular– they do not disappoint and although it is bloody hot, the views are worth the trek up the aptly named HEART ATTACK hill. We also managed to catch sight of a huge lizard like creature – called a MONITOR- fast – huge in size and with black speckled skin.

After the canyon thre was an option of another walk around the strange huge rock formations ( many Heads ) of KATE TJUTA. I opted out of this one as I was reallly knackered and chose to spend a lovely two hours in the company of Lisa in the shade reading our books..joyful . Could still see the rocks from a far.

THE ROCK _ ULURU – aboriginal name for AYERS ROCK

This was another dream come true for me- to see Ayers Rock – Uluru at sunset. We found a quieter spot – trying to escape the “Tourist ” crowds. Tables had been set up for the tourists with champagne and canapes.

We as the roughies ….. had just a such lovely time drinking champers from a plastic beaker and eating fruit cake. To watch the sun go on the rock is wonderful It does indeed change colours – from dull red to burning red – to mauve – togrey …fabulous sight. Very emotional to watch and I though of you all…I really did ….

Lots of photies of Rock and monkey with friends .

Sleeping in a swag under the stars

That Night we camped in a camp with very few faciltiies – cooking on a open fire -a chicken stew ( gorgeoues) and camping under the huge nights sky in a swag. Great stuff.

Next day – it was watching the sunrise over Ayers Rock again and the a walk around its huge base. I along with the oterwise wanted to respect the aboriginals wishes and not climb the rock. For them it such a sacred place – with hidden secret places in the caves of the rock that neither men or women can view- individual sacred sites.

At these sites they also request no photographs to be taken. Their worst fear is if someone dies on the rock trying to climb it. There have been many deaths on the rock- people falling – feet melting in to the rock in the heat ( I kid you not ) or people have been blown the top off by strong winds . Needless to say this causes great distress to the aboriginals. Rather like crowds of people crawling over the sacred alter of St Pauls Cathedral this is the only comparison I can make.

No One in our group wanted to climb the rock – in fact I dont think anyone could have if they wanted to as the Trek up was closed due to strong winds. Thankfully >>>>>>imposed respect I’d say and quite right too.

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