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Articles Tagged ‘Argentina’

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Moving to Buenos Aires: Illusion vs. Reality

Saturday, May 20th, 2006

Last week a friend of mine shot me an e-mail out of the blue inquiring about his options in Buenos Aires, were he to give up his life in NYC and move down here. He mentioned that while he´s been reflecting on his circumstances for awhile now, what brought Buenos Aires in particular to his attention was this article in New York Magazine from late February.

Without going into too much detail, this article, which is now somewhat infamous in various expat-circles down here for its hedonistic and overly self-indulgent view on living abroad, goes on to tell the story of a guy ¨who would be nothing¨ if he were back in NYC, according to his (tactful and surely likeable) best friend, but because of his good fortune in being born in a country that now has a very favorable exchange rate, can pretty much live on his own terms, ostensibly assuring he remains far from ¨nothing.¨

Now, it seems, everyone´s getting on the bandwagon: just a few weeks ago came another piece on the dramatic increase of visitors and expats to Buenos Aires, this time from the Washington Post, which hailed the city for its great value, and claimed the driving force behind it all is ¨$250 (USD) rents.¨

I get a fair amount of inquires from people asking about moving to BA all the time, so I´ll try to clear up what I think are a few misconceptions about the whole ordeal.

Shall we…

[read on]

Droppin’ Some Knowledge, Part 2 - Argentina vs. Uruguay

Sunday, May 14th, 2006

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You love every second of it don’t you Tony, you old dog you
  

   

This past Friday leaders from Latin America and the Caribbean arrived in Vienna, Austria to meet with their European counterparts and discuss trade, among other issues, at the EU-LAC summit. (Yawn). That’s the boring part. The fun part is this: just as the Presidents were lining up for the photo shoot, one black suit after the next, a bikini-clad girl bursts onto the stage and throws up a sign, as you can see above. The girl though, Evangelina Carrozzo, is no ordinary chica - she’s the crowned Carnival Queen from this year’s celebration in the Argentine city of Gualeguaychu, an otherwise undistinguished city accept for two facts:
  • It’s home to Argentina’s largest and most important Carnival celebration, so she’s no small-time beauty, mind you
  • Sitting just across the river from Uruguay, it’s currently ground zero for one of the fastest growing political solidarity movements in Argentina: opposition to the building of two enormous paper mills (the place where wood gets made into paper, pencils, etc.), on the grounds that the mills - which would sit on the Uruguayan bank of the river - will drastically contaminate the river
Thus, her sign - and intentions - should make perfect sense. One of the more interesting twists to the whole fiasco though, aside from the lascivious look in Tony Blair’s eyes (front, far left), is that Greenpeace paid for her flight to Vienna and orchestrated the whole show. Greenpeace has long been known for their outrageous publicity stunts, but this one could’ve hardly been executed better; Evangelina managed to get through security (posing as a reporter for a small town Argentine newspaper), strip, and do her little dance all before security caught up to her. My guess is she counted on the security guard having to, uh, “adjust himself” before he could accost her, buying herself a critical few extra seconds to get the point across.
 
Relating this to the title of the post, Argentina and Uruguay have been sparring over the issue of the paper mills (”papeleras”) for awhile now, though relations have really been deteriorating as of late. Historically and culturally almost identical - Uruguay used to be part of Argentina, and their people share almost indistinguishable ethnic backgrounds, eat almost the same food (lots and lots of meat), and have the same unique Spanish accent absent in the rest of Latin America - the two countries have usually enjoyed excellent relations. Hell, even Carlos Gardel, perhaps the most famous tango singer of all time and an Argentine icon was born in Uruguay.
 

 

For Uruguay, the papeleras are as far from petty sibling rivalry as you can get; they’re pinning an enormous amount of economic hope on the project. With foreign investment estimated at 10 % of the current Uruguyan GDP (around $1.7 billion dollars), the two mills (one is being built by a Spanish company, the other a Finnish one) are expected to employ thousands of people and jump-start the economy. Uruguay says the mills are safe and won’t contaminate the river; Argentina, especially those living in Gualeguaychu and the surrounding area, begs to differ. In fact they’re doing more than begging: they’ve actually been, in the long Argentine political tradition, taking matters into their own hands.
 

 

For the past few months protestors have been physically blocking the road from Argentina into Uruguay through the Gualeguaychu region, effectively halting all trade and tourism into the country of just over 3 million people. This actually affected me on a personal level - when my family came to visit in February we wanted to go to Uruguay for the day, but there were no seats available on any of the ferries running between Buenos Aires and Colonia, Uruguay because all of the tourists that would ordinarily pass through Gualeguaychu instead were directed through Buenos Aires.
 

 

The effects of this whole “kilombo” - the perfect Buenos Aires street-slang term to describe the situation, which means “a big mess” - are significant: Uruguay is threatening to pull out of MERCOSUR, the regional quasi-functional economic alliance between Brazil, Argentina, Uruguay and Paraguay. Even worse, Uruguay’s President, Tabare Vazquez was just in Washington last week, shaking hands and smiling with *gasp* Bush and discussing the possibility of signing a free-trade agreement with the U.S. In this part of the world, Brazil and Argentina are the big dogs, and no, they definitely don’t appreciate it when somebody disrespects their author-i-tay, snubbing them in favor of Washington. Right now Argentina’s President, Nestor Kirchner (red tie, front center), is requesting that the whole matter be sent to the Hague for review.
 
Critics of Argentina (and some non-Uruguayans) say possible river contamination isn’t the real issue here; it is, to best sum it up, just old fashioned “player - hating.” Basically, they say, Argentina’s jealous that it’s little brother, who it’s used to dictacting terms to, if not bullying around, landed such lucrative contracts on its own. Were the tables reversed and Argentina had the rights to these mammoth projects - especially considering its improving but still difficult economic situation - the health and welfare of a local river would be the last thing they make a fuss about. Regardless, the Uruguayans deny any susbstantial contamination will result, and say the mills will be unharmful to Argentina.  
 
While the extent of the paper mills’ contamination may be debateable, one thing´s for certain: the conflict won’t resolve itself amicably anytime soon. Next year is an election year for Kirchner, so it’s extremely unlikely that he’ll let this issue - which is proving to be a politician’s dream, as it’s one of the rare themes Argentines of all walks of life can actually agree upon - pass along without exploiting it for political gain.  
   

 

  

 

  

 

Buenos Aires on 30 pesos a day

Saturday, April 22nd, 2006
You probably won't see the above headline in the NYT travel section anytime soon. At least not while the supposed travel "articles" focus on little more than bickering about whether the foie gras is better at the 4 Seasons or ... [Continue reading this entry]

My 2 centavos

Sunday, April 16th, 2006
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You know in between manufacturing and spreading the AIDS virus, orchestrating September 11, and just plain old Dr. Evil-like world domination, you think we'd have our hands full... Since ... [Continue reading this entry]

Fading into Bolivian…er, Argentina rather

Monday, April 10th, 2006
maradona-tyson.jpg "He called me a 'rapist' and a 'recluse.' I'm not a recluse." (ed. note: 90 % of the time spent on this entry was used deciding which famous Tyson quote to place) How could I ... [Continue reading this entry]

Craig´s List: A treasure trove of all things good and indecent

Tuesday, March 28th, 2006
kip_thumb.jpg Chatting on-line with babes all day ´aint easy but somebody got ta do it I owe my life to Craig´s list. Craig, thanks man. Not only did ... [Continue reading this entry]

Homeless for a Night

Monday, January 23rd, 2006

I just got back to Buenos Aires this morning, after spending an excruciating 24 hours undertaking the task of renewing my Argentine visa. With my visa set to expire on Tuesday (tommorow), and with a German friend I met ... [Continue reading this entry]

Back in BA

Wednesday, December 28th, 2005

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First things first: Happy Hanukah, Merry Christmas, Feliz Navidad, and Happy Kwanzaa. Ok...so I´m back in Buenos Aires, and it looks like I´ll be here awhile. My ... [Continue reading this entry]

Interlude -Part I

Wednesday, November 30th, 2005
Right now Im in the midst of figuring out my plans for the future (i.e. past dinnertime) - should I stay or should I go...so Ill write a longer blog post in the next few days once I come closer ... [Continue reading this entry]

Same ´Ol, Same ´Ol

Monday, November 14th, 2005
While the internet no longer works at the hostel I´m staying at (along with the toilets, lights, sinks, windows, and basically everything else short of the building structure), there really hasn´t been too much to write about this past week. ... [Continue reading this entry]