Way of the Gauchos
5 June 2005 (Sunday) – Buenos Aires, Argentina
At the outskirts of the District Federal, there is a feria (fair) with a gaucho (Argentine cow-boys) theme – the Feria de Mataderos. I thought it would be interesting to see this other side of Buenos Aires and Pablo and I took bus 92 there.
This neighbourhood is an area of abattoirs that slaughter the cows that we have been eating. Oh yeah, indeed, I have only seen sizzling asados and bifes but someone must slice up the cows into bite-size for us. When we neared the area, we could smell a rancid odour, which is the smell of blood and innards or whatever.
I observed the faces of the people mingling in the feria and found distinct facial features. These people are mostly people from the north. There was a group of dancers snapping their fingers and swirling around to the traditional music of chamame, gato, chacarera, zamba, etc… These are not professional dancers, mind you. From Monday to Friday, their professions could range from bakers to bankers but here and now, at the feria, they are all dancers, their faces are full of concentration and expression as they dance and hop, wave their handkerchiefs and spin around with all their heart and soul.
I was very amused with a little elderly gaucho who obviously had difficulties walking as he seemed to be suffering from arthritis. But there he was, right on the floor, snapping his fingers and moving around as best as he could. Another lady had so much love in her face as she smiled and gazed into the eyes of her partner that she actually brought minute tears to my eyes. Wow.
The feria sold things that were a little different, a lot of gaucho-related items like boleadores (trio of balls linked by a rope), belts, bombachas de campo (a kind of baggy pants with a button each at the bottom of the leg-portions, usually worn by gauchos), ponchos, mate, knives, etc… Also, as usual, a lot of kitsch things like figurines such as fairies made from dough, Barbie dolls in tiny crochet dresses and table-top water-fountain gardens in the name of feng shui (Chinese geomancy).
When it came to food, there was only 1 thought in my head – choripan! That is delicious barbecued chorizo (thick sausage) set inside some buns. We ordered it in a restaurant and I slathered it with chimichurri (a galicky sauce that tastes great but no one is allowed anywhere near you for at least 24 hours). Ohhh… lovely. That’s all I need for food today.
We dropped by the apartment of Pablo’s parents for a short visit. They were really delighted to see me and likewise for me, it was superb to see them again!! I presented the present I had gotten for them. It is 2 Oriental-looking serving plates, red in colour of course, with the Chinese words for Fortune, Success, Longevity (Fu Lu Shou) done in calligraphy style. They just love such things. His mother placed them on the display cabinet and muttered many thanks to me for taking the trouble to bring presents here, all the way from Singapore. Well, it was no problem. I didn’t carry them here. Poor Rodrigo did.
Recently, their grand-daughter had her 15th birthday coming-of-age party and they showed me some of the photos. Here in South America, all girls of this age would have a spectacular PARTY to have them presented to society. This kind of party is not a cozy party, held at home with some cakes that mom bought on her way home from work. It has the preparation and the expenditure not unlike that of a wedding!
They would rent a function room, invite all their family members (even those from other cities) and friends, get all dressed up in smart suits and evening gowns; there would be a host for the evening, video guys to record everything and lots of food and booze. The girl has her first dance with her father. Then, all the male relatives that are important to the family, the grandfather, the uncle, the cousins, etc… get to dance with her. Thereafter, everyone gets to the floor and formally waltzes around with various dance partners. When more and more people get more drunk, the dancing becomes crazier, with them putting on funny masks and gross party hats. Basically, everyone parties until, what, 7am in the morning or when they collapse.
At the end, everyone gets a little souvenir for the event. This souvenir is something really ‘cute and sweet’ like a flower, or a little item for display on the table – a fairy, a bell, a swan, etc… usually pastel in colour. Yes, you can almost taste the words coming out of my mouth – it is KITSCH to the infinity. If you do not know what I mean, and if you ever come by Buenos Aires, go to the area around Once (pronounced On-say) Train Station and meander around the trashy shops there. You would see many samples of 15th birthday cake and trays of these little kitsch souvenirs. Hmmm… which reminds me, I ought to pay a visit to Once just to gross myself out again.
Gosh, there are so many things to do in Buenos Aires. When can I leave? How can I leave?
Tags: 01) Imagining Argentina, Buenos Aires
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