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Virgin of Las Lajas

19 September 2005 (Monday) – Pasto to Ipiales, Colombia to Otavalo, Ecuador

I had left Pasto after 10am, and I was surprised to reach Ipiales before noon. I originally thought I would stay 1 night in Ipiales before I cross the border to Ecuador tomorrow morning. But, I believe I have time to make a little trip to see the Iglesia de Las Lajas, about 7km from Ipiales and still have ample time to cross the border, making it to Otavalo, Ecuador, by tonight, even.

I left my baggage at the Left Luggage and went to the centre. There were many shared taxis heading to Las Lajas and within half an hour of arriving at Ipiales bus terminal, I was already in Las Lajas walking towards the famous church.

Along the way, there were many plaques prepared by the pilgrims, giving thanks to Virgin of Las Lajas for whatever miracles and wishes they had asked for. These plaques were fixed onto the rock surfaces along the route all the way down to the church.

Plaques giving thanks to the Virgin of Las Lajas

What was special about this church was that it was built down in the dramatic gorge. When I turned the corner and spotted its backview, I actually let out a gasp. The church is truly beautiful, with Gothic designs all over. I know, there are tonnes of beautiful churches everywhere, but this one, is truly the most beautiful one in such a dramatic setting!

The gorgeous Church of the Virgin of Las Lajas

The picture of the Virgin was painted on the cliff surface, so the altar of the church is actually undulating cliff surfaces. The rest of the church was built jutting out from the cliff, supported by arched bridges built to the base of the canyon. It was truly fascinating, definitely worth the detour to take a look at this impressive church while one crosses the border between Colombia and Ecuador. Wow, I was floored!

...in a truly dramatic setting!

 One of the most stunning churches I had ever seen!

The rest of the day was spent in a series of micros and buses, as I made my way to Rumichaca bridge for the border-crossing formalities and to Tulcan’s bus terminal to decide if I could get to Otavalo. I was simply scooped up by a bus outside the bus terminal. Although the sign on the bus read ‘Ibarra’ and ‘Quito’, they promised me they go to Otavalo as well. They left when the bus was rather empty but managed to scoop up more passengers along the mountainous road. I saw many, many people with Indian features now. Ah, the other face of South America! I feel great to be in Ecuador.

My hostel was absolutely lovely, truly, my favourite hotel so far. It was a little expensive for me, as I intended to stay til the weekend. But by late evening, I had made friends with the owners and they gave me many helpful advice, and I would feel bad about moving to another place. I mean, if I hated the place, I would move. But I loved this place very much. Sigh, we shall see. I would have to eat very little the next few days then.



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