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25 November 2005 (Friday) – Sucre, Bolivia
When I peeped out of the window and saw blue skies, I hurriedly showered and got dressed. I started my day by climbing up to the top of Sucre – La Recoleta viewing point, just above the Cafe Mirador of Museo Tanga Tanga. Yesterday, it had been cloudy in the evening when Wolfgang brought me up here. Today, absolutely fantastic!
I snuck into Casa Kolping, the hotel remodelled on the house that used to belong to Wolfgang, to take some pictures from the even more stunning view offered by the extremely expensive terrace cafe. I departed before any waiter could come up to ask for my order. Heehh…
Then, I just sat for a while at one of the arches that looked out to the city and enjoyed the view, the mountains, the glistening white houses, the churches, the clock tower… I made my way to La Recoleta Church and Convent and did a little tour there, which has an interesting story behind the choirboy stands in the church, the lovely courtyards, the odds-and-ends curio collections by the Franciscan monks, the Garden of Orange Trees and the 1,400 year-old Millenium Cedar Tree.
In the late afternoon, I strolled over to the General Cemetery of Sucre, built in 1580. This is a lovely cemetery, with mausoleums, monuments and really really pretty gardens with sculpted trees. So tranquil, so shady. I observed the memorials against the rows of walls, where the coffins were enclosed within the thick walls and the loved ones had made a beautiful stone cover and decorated with vases of flowers. Some richer ones could have a tomb underground with a huge monument commemorating their lives and achievements. Even richer families had an entire mausoleum built, some spaces were already taken up but there were several more waiting to be occupied by their future generations. Then, way behind, there was a section which was really packed with crosses and small slabs, well… for the general public, I supposed, and unfortunately, there is not much space left.
It was such a beautiful afternoon, blue sky, spottings of clouds and it was so quiet and lovely here, I propped myself on a bench and enjoyed the afternoon, reading away. Several families passed by with bouquets of flowers on hand. Later, a car with a coffin drove by solemnly, followed by an entourage of griefing families and friends.
In the evening, feeling a little peckish, I walked to the Central Market of Sucre, for something to drink and eat. OK, a lot of people had already closed up their stalls, so it was just a shadow of its glorious self. I would have to come back again tomorrow morning to experience it. But indeed, this is a lovely market, comparatively clean and organised and no shocking container of horses’ heads (like I had seen in the market of Huaraz, Peru).
I had just bought my ticket to Potosi, leaving tomorrow. But back at home, reading my guidebook, I realised the silver mines are closed on Sundays. Hmmm… so, it seemed I would have to while my Sunday away in freezing Potosi. Not such a good idea. I talked to Mario, Amparo’s son, and he suggested that I leave on Sunday instead and spend Saturday here in Sucre. Amparo later also suggested that she would make a delicious lunch tomorrow as well. OK, I stay.
Tags: 09) Bolivian Rhapsody, Sucre
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