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Pastoruri

20 October 2005 (Thursday) – Huaraz, Peru

Yesterday, I had bought 3 tours at one go… I know, how extravagant of me but together, they come with a discount… heh. The guy who sold me the tours told me that I would go to Laguna Llanganuco today which is located at around 3,800m above sea level. So, I just brought enough stuff for this trip.

But when I arrived at the meeting point, I was bundled into a bus that was apparently going to Glacier Pastoruri. Now, Pastoruri is located at 5,400m above sea level. THAT is a totally different story! I would need gloves, woolly cap, another warm sweater, a rain jacket, scarf… the works! And I had none of these with me now!! Also, nursing a diarrhoea with hastily swallowed Imodium 5 minutes ago, and a still-throbbing headache most likely due to the altitude, I was not so sure about reaching 5,400m today.

Anyway, I persuaded the guide to get the driver to drop me off back at my hostel to grab my things before we left the town.

Although now is the low season of travel for foreigners, this week is the end of Peru’s school holidays. Hence, there are many school trips organised from Lima. These massive groups of noisy teenagers were on the same tours as I was, as in fact, these tours usually serve more Peruvians than foreign tourists who come all the way here for more adventurous treks in the cordilleras.

The bus travelled down south from Huaraz along Callejon de Huaylas which is the valley between the two mountain ranges of Cordillera Negra (Black Range) and Cordillera Blanca (White Range). These two mountain ranges are both 4,000m to 5,000m but the Cordillera Negra is closer to the Pacific Ocean and hence, due to the warmer air from there, hardly any snow is retained. On the other hand, the Cordillera Blanca is on the other side of the valley and over there, one can see a distinct snowline along the tips of the mountains.

The view through and through was absolutely spectacular, with what I had been calling paramo grass (since I left Venezuela)… which are, in fact, as I learnt from my guide, called lichos here… on the undulating series of mountains.

Undulating mountains and 'licho' grasslands

A coloured lake with red algae and other minerals

We stopped by Las Aguas Gasificadas de Pumapampa which is a small pool permanently bubbling gassy mineral water. We were offered plastic cups to scoop the water with. I observed reddish sediments in the water. That would be iron. In fact, the grassy patch around the pool was stained with iron. Interesting taste. Tastes like iron.

A pool bubbling gassy mineral water

There is also an interesting plant called La Puya Raymondi. This plant looks like a… well… phallus with a burst of leaves at the bottom. It can grow up to 12m in height and it can live to around 80 to 100 years. Once in its lifetime, it will flower for 3 months, after which it dies. But boy, does it flower… there are up to 6,000 flowers at this time. It must be a spectacular sight! But of course, now, we could not really see any of these in bloom. Apparently, this plant is near extinction now, found only in Peru and Bolivia in locations above 4,000m above sea level. Such an amazing-looking plant!

La Puya Raymondi

We reached the starting point of Pastoruri at around 1pm. We were now standing at an altitude of 5,000+m. There is a path of 2km that we had to walk to reach the glacier. I had bought some coca leaves and popped a small load in, and at the advice of the guide and the driver, I walked really slowly.

I did not know how but some of the teenagers were already well ahead. Meanwhile, there were others who had turned breathless, and had taken a rest by the side benches. A handful more had thrown up and returned to the buses to die. One could ride horses to the 1km mark, but after that, you still have to walk up the remaining 1km to reach the glacier. I plodded on slowly, breathing hard, but not stopping once. It started to snow. This is perhaps my fourth time to see falling snow. Yeah! Meanwhile, I chewed and sucked the coca leaves.

After crossing the 1km mark, I gave myself a little pat on the back and pressed on. There were Peruvians who came up to ask me if I wanted to be carried to the terminal front of the glacier. What?? I could not believe my ears! You mean there are people who pay to be carried? Sheesh… no, gracias.

After nearly 1 hour, I finally finally finally managed to reach out and touch the damn glacier!! Yes, I did it. I am now at 5,400m!! Gosh, this is the highest I have ever been in my entire life!!!! And yes, I have made it! Never once did I think I would not be able to do it. It is all in the mind, like how Rene taught me.

Ice-climbing up the glacier

Finally, Glacier Pastoruri

Tourists scrambling up the slippery glacier

I tried to walk on the glacier but it was too slippery for me and after 5 or 10 minutes, I spat out the coca leaves, chewed new ones and began the easier hike back.

Yes, I finally could reach out and touch the damn glacier!

At 5,400m, this is the highest place I had ever been

The stunning but bleak landscape around

Hiking down

Lovely little trip today! At least I did not die.



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2 Responses to “Pastoruri”

  1. CC Says:

    Wow, 5400M! CONGRATS! Was the feeling even more awesome than in the mountains of Torres del paine?

  2. Posted from Singapore Singapore
  3. admin Says:

    Well, if I have to choose, I would say Torres del Paine still ROCKS!!! It was much more impressive there! Thanks for reading… 🙂

  4. Posted from Peru Peru
  5. justine Says:

    thanks for the information. the diary notes were wonderful. i’m climbing mt. whitney in california this summer and have done huayna picchu before as well as some other peaks in california…this one will be a target to aim at!!

  6. Posted from United States United States
  7. sheree Says:

    breath taking

  8. Posted from United States United States

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