Kicking and Screaming
8 June 2005 (Wednesday) – Buenos Aires, Argentina
I have already figured out a way to predict the unpredictable weather of Buenos Aires. Since it was really hot yesterday, it meant today would be really cold and I was right. I actually thought I would be OK with what I had on, but by the time I was on the street, I was f-r-e-e-z-i-n-g.
I walked briskly to Abasto, a shopping mall along Av. Corrientes 3200+, not so far from where I was staying. It used to be a huge market but with modernization, it was transformed into an immense shopping mall with state-of-the-art cinemas and a gigantic hall of food stalls and cafes. Having grown up in a land of shopping malls, I felt right at home. Smart and posh, and not too cheto (Argentine slang for super-snooty) like Patio Bullrich along Av. del Liberador.
I caught an Argentine movie ‘Cama Adentro’ (Live-in Maid). It was a little slowish but it was OK for me. It described the relationship between a rather rich lady (who now had no money) and her live-in housemaid after Argentina plunged into an economy crisis at the end of 2001. It was very subtle in the suggestion of the deep fondness and unspoken friendship they have for each other, but yet, both of them always keep a distance because of the master-and-servant class difference. It was interesting how their roles kind of changed in the end.
I guess it is not a movie for the typical guy, and especially those who do not like to be reminded of the situation in their country. But it was interesting for me to peer a little more ‘inside’ into the life of an upper-middle-class person who had to learn to cope with the changes in her life (which included massive eating of the humble pie) during the economy crash. My fellow movie-mates were middle-aged señoras and grey-haired abuelas (grannies) who had to assist one another in walking.
By late afternoon, I made my way to Parque Rivadavia. I was told by Claudio that this was the place to buy illegal CDs of any kind of music, games, movies, etc… whatever you desire. I was interested in getting some Silvio Rodriguez CDs, and decided to head down there for a look.
There was a feria de libros (book fair) selling really ancient books, magazines and paperbacks that probably disintegrate into smithereens in your hands the second you pick them up. I acted casual and popped my head into this stall and that to sniff out the illegal CDs. Ahh… at the stalls facing behind, there they were. Whatever I desire…
Well, I am not saying if I bought any illegal CDs or not. Heh heh heh. But just 5 pesos, in MP3 format with nearly his entire complete works?! Wow.
Tonight, there is a preliminary match between Argentina and Brazil for the upcoming World Cup. I was to meet Anabel and her friends at Recoleta to go watch the match at some bar. I returned home to borrow the key from Claudia so that I could sneak back in late tonight without disturbing her. By the time I gave Anabel a call to confirm the location, they had decided to move to a discotheque in San Telmo. Fine. I would go later, I took my time having a cup of tea with Claudia and chatting for a while.
When I left to grab a bus to San Telmo, I had a strange feeling. It was not long, while on the bus, before I realised why – the streets of Buenos Aires were empty. OK, not totally empty. This is not some virtual reality movie where I find myself alone in the entire city but seriously, Buenos Aires streets looked really quiet and vacant, with just a handful of stray cars and commuters, it was downright spooky. Everyone must be snuggled inside their home preparing to watch the match, or had already gone to a bar. Even many restaurants which I suspect do not close this early on normal days were shutting up now. Now?? At 9+pm? Impossible to imagine in Buenos Aires!
I was not sure if I could find Anabel and her friends in a crowded discotheque that was really massive but I found them alright and greeted each of her friends.
The match soon begun. In 4 mins, Argentina had a goal and the crowd went wild!! By the 18th min, Argentina had ANOTHER goal and everyone screamed and sang various patriotic anthems!! As I am on this side of the Iguazu Falls, I guess I am supporting Argentina. So, yeah yeah yeah!!!! I NEVER ever watch football on TV, but I am in South America, I have to watch one. Indeed, Argentina played very very well tonight. I guess they also have the homeground advantage. When the camera panned to a disappointed-looking Brazilian fan dressed up as a jester, the crowd booed rudely. Argentina scored again at around 39th min and everyone was already in the victory mood.
I felt a tug on my sleeve and turned around. There was Rodrigo! I did not know he would be here in this discotheque as well, but then again, I was not even surprised anymore to run into familiar faces here in Buenos Aires.
In the second half which was a little boring by then as neither scored, I got to chatting with Carla, a friend of Anabel. When she realised I could speak Mandarin, she was delighted as she is learning Chinese now. Then, in the midst of the disco-lights and curses from the surrounding spectators, she fished out her Chinese lesson note books to show me her lessons. My goodness! I can never imagine how they can learn this difficult language. Pablo is also learning Chinese by himself at home, and over last weekend, I had helped him with some words, pronunciations and explanations of when to use which past tense (‘guo’ or ‘le’). Geeee…. I could not remember how I myself learnt Chinese but certainly not in this way. The grammar is completely opposite from whatever they know, the characters are just pictures, the sounds are non-existent in their native tongue and the differences so subtle, it is impossible not to cramp your tongue just trying to repeat the sounds.
But I guess, such is language. If it is your native tongue or first language, you just pick it up with natural instincts and frequent usage. If it is your second or third language, you need to go through the grammar crap word for word. Everyday, I am still struggling with when to use which past tense in Spanish. It’s not surprising to hear me go : Somos (We are)… Estamos (also, We are)… er… no… Fuimos (We were or We went – preterite past tense)… Estabamos (We were – imperfect past tense)… yeah, estabamos yadda yadda… ” while my friends look on at me with amusement. They just know when to use what and did not know any rules behind them.
So, in reverse, having me to analyse the grammar of Chinese to explain to Pablo was also difficult.
And so, Carla is another Argen-china. She proudly showed me her recent Level 2 exam, which she scored an 8 out of 10. That’s excellent!! Here in Argentina, they have a saying: If they come across something really difficult, tedious or complicated, they would say this thing is ‘chino básico’ (Elementary Chinese). And wow, look at Carla, she had already gone on to Level 3 now.
By the time the game was over, Argentina won 3-1 to heaps of delighted screams and volumnous songs. The dance music of the disco began right away, and everyone leapt to the floor to party away. The mood was electric! As everyone was famished, we squeezed out of the tight crowd after a while to head towards the Obelisco for something to eat.
There, Carla told me she would like to have a Chinese boyfriend and seemed to appeal to me for tips or connections. Huh? You want a Chinese boyfriend? “Supermercado. (supermarket)”, I deadpanned. (Supermarkets here in South America are frequently run by Chinese.)
Tags: 01) Imagining Argentina, Buenos Aires
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