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A Gem of Peach and Lilac

Tuesday, November 22nd, 2005

21 November 2005 (Monday) – Santa Cruz, Bolivia

True enough, there were loads and loads of plastic hair-clips sold along the streets!! Brazil flash-back!

As I popped my nose into several of the fancier shops all over Santa Cruz today, I was surprised at some of the prices!! For a pair of sandals (pretty low-quality if I may add), it was 130 bolivianos… that is about US$16 or S$28 (Singapore dollar). But I believe I could get something like that for about S$15-S$18 in Singapore. A skirt… 280 bolivianos, or US$35 which is S$60. Perhaps, I could get something like that for around S$40-S$50 and even then, I would consider it expensive!!

Later, I realised many of the shops did not even go the ‘boliviano’ way. They quoted me all the prices in US dollars directly. A simple blouse, US$25… another skirt, US$40… I looked around me and there were serious shoppers, looking to buy. They obviously blinked less than I on hearing the prices.

Gosh, I really did not understand how anyone could afford such things based on what I assumed to be their salaries here. I remembered a conversation in Ecuador, where a man asked me how much I earned a month. Before I could reply, he asked if I earned more than US$500. Err… yes, I do. And he went on to say that that was a lot of money. Yet, I had seen sweaters there sold for US$25 when I could get the same for S$25 in my country! I guess, for the basic survival items, everything was more or less alright for their salaries. But for anything else, they were only meant for the Really Rich. And the Really Rich here in Santa Cruz must be really, really, and I mean, profanely, obscenely rich.

The area called Siete Calles (Seven Streets) in Santa Cruz is an area where several streets (I am assuming there are seven of them) converged, creating a melee of activities and honking vehicles. There were the fancy shops selling evening gowns, sexy tops, nice jeans, costume jewelleries, real jewelleries, crystal wares, silver photo frames, branded sunglasses, bags, lots and lots of shoes and where everything was priced in US dollars.

And right in front of them, were the street vendors selling rather similar-looking items (perhaps, a tad lower quality) in bolivianos, obviously contrabands from Brazil. In the cool breeze of the evening, there were lots of movements here. It had a really festive shopping atmosphere.

A nice unique architectural aspect I noticed of Santa Cruz is that many of the pavements around Santa Cruz are covered. You may not find this important, but believe me, when it rains, you will surely appreciate a covered pavement. To support the roofs, there are sometimes concrete columns along the pavements, and for some of the older buildings, wooden columns. On top of these wooden columns, one might also find wooden balconies above. All these wooden balconies, columns and red tiles, kinda give Santa Cruz a little ‘cowboy’ look, I thought.

Wooden balconies and covered pavements

Anyway, speaking of jewelleries, there is a gem called ‘bolivianito’ which is a peach-and-lilac stone. They tell me it is unique in Bolivia. I do not know for sure, but it was certainly my first time seeing such gems. They cut the gems in such a way that on the stone on a necklace or an earring, the gem would have a little of the peach and lilac colours. Very very lovely. I had been eyeing them since La Paz. Should I splash on a pair of earrings? For sure, I do not belong to the Really Rich, but on the other hand… they are really unique, lovely and when would I come back to Bolivia again?

Cine Europeo

Monday, November 21st, 2005

20 November 2005 (Sunday) – Santa Cruz, Bolivia

I was assaulted by numerous offers to go to Paraguay, Brazil, Buenos Aires, even to Chile… when I got off the bus at Santa Cruz. “¿Para dónde vas? ¿Para dónde vas? (Where are you going?) ¿Paraguay? ¿Buenos Aires? ¿Brasil? ¿Iquique?…”. I tried to be ‘funny’ and deadpanned, “Santa Cruz. Ya he llegado, gracias.” (Santa Cruz. I have already arrived, thank you.) This guy stared at me, unmoved, giving me the ‘don’t-try-to-be-funny-look’. Well, don’t mess with me after an overnight bus please!

After settling down in a little hotel, I rested a few hours before heading out for some food. Santa Cruz, at 400+m above sea level, was an utterly different face of Bolivia. My friend Alexis in La Paz had told me I just had to come and take a look at Santa Cruz. Yep, he was right. Here, it was hot and humid, but with a slight breeze so it was not oppressive. The Bolivians here were dressed in sexy short skirts and tight tacky blouses. Yes, they must get their clothes from nearby Brazil. As it was a Sunday and most shops were closed, I would have to check out the goods on sale tomorrow (any chance they sell tonnes and tonnes of plastic hair-clips??). Frankly, from the shop windows, it does appear that here is the place for the new-rich, with lots of fancy modern items for sale. The other side of the coin from La Paz.

I had lunch but felt like vomitting right after. I walked around the quiet town centre, feeling horrible. I found a juice place and had a glass of juice, but I still felt terrible. So, I returned to my hotel and slept some more.

By evening, although I still did not feel well, I forced myself to go out and walk around a bit. I suspect it is the greasy food of Bolivia that is making me sick. And I wonder how to get out of the situation. Frankly, looking at menus from restaurants already turned my stomach. There is really not much variety of non-greasy food here. I wonder how I could try and feed myself these few days.

The Cine Europeo Festival is in Bolivia now. I had come across the poster in Cochabamba a few days ago, and now here in Santa Cruz. If I had known about it when I was in La Paz, I might have caught a handful of movies there. But now in Santa Cruz and today being the last day of the festival here, I headed out to Cine Bellavista, near the stadium and checked out what were the movies being played tonight. One was from Italy and the other from Denmark. Alright, since the prices of tickets in Singapore would have been 3 times more… I got both tickets as I LOVE film festivals. Had a thoroughly enjoyable evening watching both movies, espeically the dizzy Reconstruction!! Excellent!!

The Pleasure of Flying Through Land

Sunday, November 20th, 2005
19 November 2005 (Saturday) - Torotoro to Cochabamba to Santa Cruz, Bolivia It rained last night. There were lightning flashes and some thunder rumblings late in the night, but I think it only really started to pour at around 2am. In ... [Continue reading this entry]

Captain Cavewoman!

Saturday, November 19th, 2005
18 November 2005 (Friday) - Torotoro, Bolivia We discovered why the annexe was so much cheaper. There was only water for certain hours of the day. Well, this is a small town, so water was not always available. But we could ... [Continue reading this entry]

T-Rex Was Here

Saturday, November 19th, 2005
17 November 2005 (Thursday) - Torotoro, Bolivia Amazing, despite the extremely bumpy and horrible bus-ride, I think I managed to catch some winks here and there. We arrived in Torotoro at 5+am. As the door exit was still stuck with goods, ... [Continue reading this entry]

To Torotoro, campesino style

Saturday, November 19th, 2005
16 November 2005 (Wednesday) - Cochabamba to Parque Nacional Torotoro, Bolivia Naoki and I met up and headed to the bus station of the private bus company going to Torotoro and bought our tickets. Gosh, to be honest, the area looked ... [Continue reading this entry]

In The Mood For Sushi

Wednesday, November 16th, 2005
15 November 2005 (Tuesday) - Cochabamba, Bolivia Nice to be able to sleep in this morning for I have nothing to do today, save for a candle-making course later in the afternoon. I know... candle-making course, you asked?? Am I retired or ... [Continue reading this entry]

Excuse Me, Are You A Tourist?

Tuesday, November 15th, 2005
14 November 2005 (Monday) - Cochabamba, Bolivia The minute the words 'Parque Nacional Torotoro' came out of my mouth, the Tourist Office lady shoved me some brochures and seemed to wave me away, telling me everything is in there. Only from ... [Continue reading this entry]

Cochabamba, Eternal Spring City

Monday, November 14th, 2005
13 November 2005 (Sunday) - Cochabamba, Bolivia I arrived in Cochabamba at around 6am to find my backpack NOT on the bus. Well, there was a fancier bus leaving La Paz at 10pm and then, there was my normal bus ... [Continue reading this entry]

Swirl Baby Swirl

Sunday, November 13th, 2005
12 November 2005 (Saturday) - La Paz to Cochabamba, Bolivia Alexis met me in front of the Iglesia San Francisco at Plaza San Francisco and whizzed me to Plaza Villarroel by bus. There was the institute where he works. The school organizers had set ... [Continue reading this entry]