BootsnAll Travel Network



And Then, There Was Samba

23 July 2005 (Saturday) – Fortaleza, Brazil

I would be taking the riverboat up the Amazon River once I get to Belem. To travel hammock class, I would need to purchase a hammock. OK, I could do this in Belem, but my Natal family told me it was better to buy in Fortaleza which was the birthplace of hammocks in Brazil, it seemed.

The hammock in Isabelle's living room was my bed for a couple of nights, I love it!

Lunch with Isabelle, her mother's friend and her mother

Isabelle’s mother was also very keen to help me with this purchase, so by late morning, she came to pick us up and we drove to the Mercado Central (Central Market). Everyone told me I could get a hammock for R30, more or less. With Isa’s mother, she went from shop to shop, sniffing at the hammocks, demanding for the price to be lowered. We finally found one for R15, a small basic one which she told me was less scratchy than the other one we saw. Fine, let’s take it. I could not believe the price!

And yet later, as we left the market and were driving out, we saw more shops selling the same type of hammock for R11!! My goodness, it is so terribly cheap. Anyway, I have bought mine, so I shall not look at hammocks again.

I really found many hammocks very, very, very lovely-looking. But I could not afford these ones, with the beautiful crochet adornments. They are much bigger, heavier and more expensive.

I also bought the hooks to hang hammocks. I think when I finally have my own apartment (please please please let me be able to own an apartment eventually), I would install the hooks in the living room and hang a hammock there permanently. A portion of my life should be spent lying in the hammock.

Later that evening, Isa took me to Ponte de Inglesa, a jetty that has a few restaurants and cafes on it for tourists and locals to enjoy the sea, breeze and sunset. Sunset in Brazil, you asked? Yes, in a way, it had been nearly impossible to see a proper sunset in Brazil as Brazil faces east. The sun is always setting behind some mountains or buildings. However, after Natal, Brazil curved away in a northwesternly direction. So, here in Fortaleza, at some spots, one could see the sunset. And right here at Ponte de Inglesa, we could see it setting right into the sea.

With Isabelle, at Ponte de Inglesa... people who shared sunsets, would forever have a connection with each other

Isa said that people who shared sunsets, would forever have a connection with each other. We looked at each other and wished that may we forever get to share sunsets with someone special.

She wanted to show me a club which played true-blue traditional samba. OK, up here in the northeast, the favourite dance is not the samba, but the forro. I had heard some forros being played since I was in Salvador, Recife and Natal. Katharina had tried to introduce me to various types of forros, but to be honest, I did not quite fancy it. Although I recognised that its lyrics are very meaningful, always telling the stories of the tough lives the people in the interiors led, but as for the rhythms, well, I could just listen to one or two dances. After that, it was enough.

Moons ago in Buenos Aires, Pablo had asked me if I wanted to learn how to dance tango. My eyes shot straight to my boots. “In t-h-o-s-e???” I replied incredulously. He followed my eyes and realised it was impossible. He asked why didn’t I pack my stilettos? So, tango was out!

Then, in Recife, I had matched my dirty trekking sandals to my pretty dress to dance a bit of bolero and salsa in the dancing hall and salsa club where Katharina had brought me to. Fashion faux pas, I know, but for dancing, it was more or less OK.

Now, I finally found a host who was more or less as petite as I was and I was able to wear a pair of her nice sandals and now, samba time!! We danced the tiny samba steps around our table and later, in front of the ‘live’ band, squeezing with the crowd. Some women were just amazing. I did not know how they sustained the fast rhythms. They were fantastically versatile, swaying back-and-fro in very rapid, brisk movements. I pointed a woman out to Isa, for she was simply a fantastic dancer. Isa nodded in agreement. She herself had no idea how to dance the true samba way either. We shrugged and just made do with whatever we felt like.

Then, to my surprise, a tall guy tapped me on the shoulder and beckoned me over. Curious, I went over. He took my hands and tried to TEACH me how to dance samba! Hahaa, how did he know I wanted to learn?? Magic magic magic! Or either that, I was a complete flop at the dance-floor!

I followed his steps, but the magic is in the hips. He tried to move my hips a little. I soon got the hang of it. There was a trio of women sitting at the side nearby and they broke into an applause when I finally got it. But getting it and sustaining it are two different things!! Wow, despite the smallish, repetitive steps, it was not easy to dance samba at all!!

Wow, this trip so far had been terrific! I just feel I need to quote someone now… who… who… er… OK, just to quote someone – Queen! “Don’t Stop Me Now! I’m having such a good time… I’m having a ball!!”

I had just been exposed to the musical wonders of Brazil one after the other in the past month. There was olodum, Candomblé in Salvador; serenata in Olinda; bolero and salsa in Recife; OK… hip-hop in Natal; reggae in Canoa and then, there was samba here in Fortaleza. Incredible! Que sufrimento!



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One Response to “And Then, There Was Samba”

  1. Li Li Says:

    Wow! Hammocks! Cool!! I liked them v much; (maybe I belong the type who just loves to “nua3” or laze around.
    Especially if you just bring it to the beach and “laufen” in them with the sea breeze blowing past!!

  2. Posted from Singapore Singapore

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