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Train Leg #9

Friday, August 28th, 2009

Seventy-nine kilometres out of Tomsk is the junction where the branch line we are on rejoins the main east-west route.  In a classic piece of short sighted lobbying the Tomsk city administrators of the time wanted to protect their own transportation monopolies and so got bypassed by the railway.  Then their town got bypassed by progress.  Thick taiga surrounds us as we cover in a couple of hours what took a year to construct.  At the obviously named Tayga we are only a couple of hundred kilometers away from the halfway point between Moscow and Beijing.  This train is almost perfectly timed, leaving in the late evening and by crossing yet another time zone, thus gaining an hour, we should arrive in Krasnoyarsk just before lunch.  The published arrival times are actually quite reliable as the drivers get bonuses for pulling into the stations at the advertised time.  A side effect of this can be long periods in the middle of the night where the train is stationary so as not to get too far ahead of schedule.  The whole time zone thing has become quite confusing.  All schedules are on Moscow time and so you are constantly adding and subtracting hours to work out when you actually are.  For example the printed arrival time to Novosibirsk was 3am which would be a terrible time but when three hours get added to this it actually works nicely.  Tomsk was a bit confusing however as it was not particularly clear which time zone we were in.  According to all our maps and the inside the station clock it was four hours ahead of the capital.  But on the main clock it was still the three that Novosibirsk had been.  In the end it hardly mattered.  We had been checked out of the hotel since midday anyway and had spent most of the afternoon just hanging out waiting for the departure time to roll around.  Getting there early also allowed me to run across to the supermarket next to the station and restock our supplies and grab a couple of mystery pastries for dinner.  One meat one cheese. [read on]

Administrative changes

Thursday, September 18th, 2008

By now it was Thursday morning and still our one administration requirement lay uncompleted.  The border crossing into Russia had occurred entirely without incident or hinderance, getting out in the same fashion required registration of our visas within 24 hours of entering the country.  This was one of those official tasks where there is very little actual literature to give proper guidance and so the number of interpretations about what is actually required seem to equal the number of people you talk to about it with the only one who really matters being thousands of miles away in their little border post.  The application process for the visa itself was similar where a requirement would seemingly be easily able to be checked off the list only for something to come out of nowhere to hold the whole process up.  A prime example of this was the Russian embassy in New Zealand being the one that insists on a cover letter from a travel agent which would seem trivial except that we had not been using an agent at all (because they are generally useless) but on enquiry were happy to send a letter off on our behalf as long as we booked some accommodation with them.  The conversation went something like this, [read on]