Bali bollicks and arty Ubud
Three weeks ago in Java I got stung by jellyfish whilst swimming. It was very painful and the scarring is still on my arms and hands. It looks gross and I am wondering when my body will make it go away. Some locals here told me to put vinegar on the scars but that just makes them sting worse…….mmmmmmmmm?
Bali is a mint place. Interestingly, not Muslim like most of this country but Hindu. I wish I had spent less time in Java and more time here. There are many new things for your senses. Everyday, all over the ground you see little grass-made containers full of flowers, rice and other bits-n-bobs. These are offerings to the Hindu Gods. I went to a temple with Rene and was quite intrigued to see a chicken with its napper chopped off - totally decapitated! They sacrifice animals around here all the time. Their religion is a mix of Hinduism/Buddhism/Animism which makes for an interesting experience. Everyday you here beautiful Balinese music emanating from the many festivals that seem to happen all the time. The local clothing is beautiful for both male and female.
On Saturday I went to a wedding with Rene and his family and they dressed me in the local attire. It was mint. I was like an albino Bali man! So colourful man! Bali is full of colour: clothing, flowers, religious paraphernalia, local flora and luxuriant green rice terraces.
I spent four days in Kuta (the main beach party place) mainly drinking with a alcoholic tattooed idiot from London. He was canny crack but my liver could not take the pounding. We drank for 24hrs twice in a row with a small sleeping break. I vaguely remember Newcastle beating Bolton. I watched this with a Bolton fan which was a good laugh. I watched the thousands of surfers doing their thang while drinking coffee with the locals. I got tired of this place after 4 days and went in search of tranquility and culture. So I hired a moto for 8 days and headed to Ubud.
Ubud is North of the main town Denpasar in the mountains. It is a nice place surrounded by the most spectacular mountain-side emerald-green rice terraces and palm trees. It also appears to be the artistic capital of Bali. There is enough art stuff here to slake any art-lovers thirst. Unfortunately I don’t really get art so I may aswell be in space, but Ubud is worth it for the surrounding scenery and friendly locals.
Also, Rene my mate from Myanmar lives here. I have been with him and his family for the last week. He is an art dealer so I have been exposed to many galleries and exhibitions (where I am thinking “eh, what’s all this about?” but I never let on - just nod with an interested expression). I went to his youngest sons 1st birthday party and the next day was the wedding in Denpasar. Then we had a family outing to a quiet beach called Blue Lagoon near Padang Bai. We grilled two massive ugly Grupa fish on a beach BBQ and then proceeded to snorkel and enjoy the waves. Little 3yr old Julian was like a limpet on me as we allowed the waves to crash over us. The snorkeling here was superb and many dazzling fish were seen amongst the coral. It was a great day except forgetting my sun cream and contracting a little sunburn. I also helped Rene make some bamboo shelving at his self-built house. His house is open (no doors) with a fish pond surround. You have to go over steppy stones to enter - really cool. It feels odd been in a family home with kids, meals, jobs and regular life things going on. I felt a pang of ‘Is something missing in my life here?’ as I frolicked with Rene’s sons.
One problem with Bali is the amount of scary wild dogs that roam the streets in packs. Maybe it is a Hindu thing but I would cull the bastards if I was in charge. I have nearly been bitten half a dozen times by these ferocious beasts.
On Indonesia’s independence day I went to Ubud palace and watched a performance of traditional Bali dance. It was sublime. The choreography is amazing but it is the eyes that captivate you the most. Apparantly the eyes play a highly significant role in the performance. All this combined with the most elaborate head-dresses, make-up and clothing make it a thing to remember.
I drove up to Kintimani for a look at Gunung Batur - Bali’s active volcanoe with a massive crater lake. It was very cold up here so I drunk a lot of hot local coffee to warm up. I also visited Tagalalang for a look at the rice-fields but as I passed through the small village I noticed loads of young lads dressed as punks. On further investigation there happened to be a punk-rock concert this night in the village. I paid my 10,000 rupiah (50p) and went in with a local lad I met. It was mental. Maybe 1000 young crazies dressed like Sid Viscious and me, the only ‘Bule’ (foreigner) dressed like tramp. Good crack but a little scary when a massive fist-fight broke out.
Last night I watched James Bond’s new movie Casino Royale with the family who run my hostel - great movie!
Pergee Kamana (Where you go?)
jam satu (1 o’clock)
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