These Feet Can Take Us Anywhere

You may have heard of Bollywood, India’s giant film industry based in Bombay (Mumbai)?Well, Kollywood is the lesser known little sister industry out of Chennai which has acquired yours truly for a historical film in the hills near Madikeri in southern Karnataka. After being spotted while dining with new friends in Mamallapuram, Christine and I made our way back to Chennai on a slow bus with our scout, Vishua. After waiting at the largest bus stand in Asia for a while, we took a 45 minute auto-rickshaw ride to a guesthouse. Soon after we were informed that the shoot had been canceled because of rain. The next day, tired and dejected we took a crammed bus back to Pondicherry where we tried to settle into our new digs at Sadhana Forest, despite Christine’s worsening cold symptoms.My first conversation there however was with another American, Michael, who had also been scouted for the same shoot and was scheduled to head out in a couple days. On Sunday, after returning from the clinic with Christine, we learned the departure time was in just a couple hours - but she was not in the best condition for travel. I had qualms about leaving Christine when she was in such a state, but she insisted I not pass up this opportunity and I was reassured by her possession of medicines. Soon enough, Michael and I were on our way to Pondicherry after I said sweet goodbyes to my sweetheart. Along the way we picked up a “real” actor in Auroville named Ross from Australia and loaded up our “tin box on wheels.”  Leaving around one PM from Pondicherry, and after stopping in various places for food and chai, we survived the grueling 13 hour road trip and arrived at 4AM on Monday morning. Traffic was heavy everywhere as it was the day before Dewali, India’s biggest holiday (think Christmas and July 4th combined for four days). Here was the scene in Pondy. There was no sleep as we sped along shoddy roads dodging oncoming traffic while swerving around scooters, bikes, cows, potholes, and various other obstacles (including, unfortunately, a man’s body on the highway near Bangalore). This was my first experience in a car on the Indian highways and stressful is only one adjective I could use to describe the experience. I didn’t have time to worry about it though, because only two hours after falling asleep, it was time to get up for a full day of shooting (ouch). Michael and I sat like zombies on the ride to the location.

Coffee plantations dotted the roadside on the way.

 Arriving on the set we were dressed into costume and I got a nice shave from the make-up crew.  Then it was time for breakfast and chai (oh thank heavens!) That’s Vishua (my scout/agent) standing at table’s center.The food was delicious and very Indian (as it would be all four days of the shoot) - eventually leading to uncomfortable digestive issues. After breakfast I walked around snapping photos and then decided I should learn in advance where the bathroom was. I was dismayed to learn from several people that it was an “open toilet” and that I could rinse off at the stream (OMG!) or fill a bottle with water and walk into the woods. I then decided that I would control my bowels until I returned to the hotel - thankfully, I was able to do this all four days. Anyway, here are some nice scenes I took in.Near the rivers are rice paddies and the coffee plantations are higher up in the hills.In the morning we did some pretty tedious marching and standing in the sun. After lunch it was time for the post-battle hospital scene where I happened to lose an eye.But Michael, the “doctor” was kind enough to take a look at it for me…Later, the make-up guys added some more carnage.The three folks in this photo were part of a large Russian contingent.There was also a large Afghani presence (about 10) from Bangalore, as well as a Frenchman, Mexican, Iranians, Australians, and a few other Americans. It was great to meet so many people from different places in the world.After shooting all afternoon in the hospital, we were grateful to wrap up and I was eager to take off my “bandage” and see with my left eye again. That night saw us some well deserved deep sleeping…PART II…The next day was a bit easier and at a different location.To get to this rice field of dreams, we passed through the hills again and caught better views of the morning beauty.You can get the idea, but through the trees there was some really spectacular vistas. Another day at the office…Days at the office included inevitable down time which could be extremely boring if you weren’t prepared. I was equipped with Graham Greene’s novel, The Quiet American. Others employed other means to pass the time. ”Sure, I know how to ride a horse…”That’s me and Blackie. When they needed a “Britisher” on horseback, they found me waiting around (as we often were). I had already told Vishua that I could ride, but I didn’t think I was in proper attire (I wanted calvary boots and a fancy hat). Turns out that wasn’t the problem. In order to ride the horse, I needed a proper English moustache, and that meant a super-quick trip to make-up. They shaved off my stubble-shadow ’stache and pasted on a thick red one (nice!)I’m grateful to Michael for taking these great shots and sending them my way.On the following days we came back to this location and I rode Blackie again one other time. I also stood in a simulated rain shower (except they used actual water) for a good five or six takes. We were pretty drenched as were many of the “villagers” seen here.On these days I also got up early to snap a few photos of Madikeri, the hill station we were staying in.It was chilly in the mornings but it felt great in contrast to the muggy heat we’d been getting used to on the coast in Tamil Nadu. Litter everywhere is quite common and I imagine that the monsoons carry some of this garbage away. The other way they dispose of litter is… During this week of shooting, all of India was celebrating Diwali which involves, loud firecrackers at all hours, mobile shrines (mostly made by children and pulled through the streets), and dancing. Madikeri had some lively celebrations.  

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