I arrived in Te Anau in the evening, one of only two passengers rattling around on a big bus with a jovial driver who had the kind of walrus moustache you don't see enough these days, in my opinion. I spent the next day looking around Te Anau, a small town on the West side of what they call 'The Southland' of the South Island (very Lynyrd Skynrd). I walked around Lake Te Anau, the second largest lake in New Zealand at 342 square kilometres. It was a cold but bright day and the lake was clear and calm, the mountains reflecting on its surface. I went to the visitors' centre and had a look around their displays and then mooched over to the chemist and stocked up on cold medicine. I was feeling pretty rough and sorry for myself, so I took myself back to the hostel for some soup and nose drops... mmmm!

I checked out the next morning, ready for my trip to Milford Sound, then found that the road was closed due to avalanche danger. I re-booked for the following day and then stayed marooned in the hostel with the rain teeming down outside, chugging Lemsips, snuffling into tissues, watching videos and chatting with the people I'd met. Finally saw "Return of the King!" It was good to see the beautiful scenery and be all smug knowing that I was in the heart of it. Don't understand though why Frodo had to get on the boat at the end. Did I miss something vital? Come back Mister Frodo!