Posts Tagged ‘antarctica’

Sub-Antarctic cruise aboard Silver Discoverer

// November 11th, 2015 // No Comments » // Cruise, Travel

It’s a bit like preparing for a military operation as we are plucked by the beleaguered deckhands from the stern transom into the lurching Zodiac. Trussed up in numerous layers of Gortex and looking almost like space explorers, we endure the biting sea spray whipped up by 30kt gusts as we seat our clumsy bottoms around the inflatable tender.

We push off and head to shore and are immediately hit by a brutal wave over the bow, drenching the first row of passengers. The enemy is not entrenched in bunkers on the beach awaiting our arrival, but rather blowing all around us like an angry bellows, whipping stinging spray into our faces and buffeting our Zodiac as if at the hand of a child’s tantrum.

Landing on the cobble beach at Buckles Bay is notoriously treacherous, but one of the few locations near the ANARE base where one is possible. In 1948 when the modern base was established, it was more out of respect for history than practicality. The site of Sir Douglas Mawson’s original 1911 site was used and expanded rather than a more accessible one found with a safe harbour and solid foundation.

Silversea staff are waist deep in frothing surf as our Zodiac is quickly backed up against the stony shore. One by one, between sets of breakers, we are hauled out of the rubber craft and deposited on the beach with some relief but also a sense of excitement at having completed the tricky job of getting ashore.

Apart from meteorology, biology and the reception of up to 1000 visitors per year, the base hosts TasmanianParks and Wildlife Service staff who recently celebrated the total eradication of introduced pests from Macquarie Island. No mean feat in itself, the eight year project involved the team of 12 hunters and 11 dogs walking 92,000km in search of surviving pests after the end of the aerial baiting program in 2011.

Alien species like horses, donkeys, pigs, cattle, goats, dogs and sheep were relatively easy to deal with. Cats took bit longer, with the last feline removed in 2000 after a decade-long campaign, but the rabbits, rats and mice proved the toughest task, requiring a combination of poisoning and hunting to reach total success. Even now, vermin patrols will be maintained for the time being to be absolutely certain.

After my first visit in 2010, the islands enthusiastic regeneration was evident with renewed vegetation regrowth covering the previously barren sections on hillsides and slopes. The four species of breeding penguin and albatross, as well as numerous other migratory seabirds can now nest unmolested on this southern paradise once brought to the brink by the careless and greedy hand of man.

Silversea Cruises returns to Macquarie Island in January 2016 aboard Silver Discoverer (Voyage 9601) sailing from Dunedin to Christchurch over 16 nights via the New Zealand subantarctic islands (Enderby and Auckland Islands, The Snares). Includes all dining, excursions, lectures, beverages, butler service and gratuities. See www.silversea.com

Expedition Cruising

Rare Penguin “Spotted” on South Georgia

// January 2nd, 2006 // 1 Comment » // Travel

Australian expeditioners on a recent Antarctic voyage made an unusual discovery when a rare “mottle-backed” King Penguin was found amongst an enormous flock at Gold Harbour, South Georgia.

Mottled King PenguinThis unique creature wore a coat more akin to a Dalmatian than a flightless sub-Antarctic bird. Genetic aberrations are not frequently observed amongst King Penguins and those currently documented do not include mottled or spotted birds such as that located by the expeditioners.

Dr Kirsten le Mar, a biologist with Adventure Associates who has also seen the resident mottled penguin, notes that this particular genetic mutation is extremely rare. The more common mutations are all black penguins (melanistic), brown and white penguins resulting from a lack of blue pigment in the feathers (leucocystic), or birds lacking all pigment (albino).”

Largely untroubled by the sudden attention and the clicking of dozens of cameras, “Spotty” merely carried on his penguin business within the colony and did not appear to be suffering any teases or taunts from his conventionally plumed brethren. Indeed, this bird appeared to be in good body condition, although it’s unclear whether it is a successful breeder.

The group were travelling on an expedition cruise organised by pioneering Sydney travel operator, Adventure Associates and Managing Director, Dennis Collaton was there to experience the occasion.

“The Antarctic is always full of surprises,” said Mr Collaton, a veteran of more than twenty polar voyages, “I’ve certainly never before seen a bird like this and I imagine few others have.”

More: Postcard from South Georgia || Adventure Associates