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Contrasts of India

Friday, February 22nd, 2008

We’ve mentioned to a few people that India is unlike anywhere we’ve ever been, and when they ask why it’s a bit tough to explain. We both love it AND hate it , usually within minutes of eachother!

It is completely a land of contrasts, and this is more noticeable up north. In Rajastan, as I had mentioned, women are really just worth about nothing. Due to the social structure there is really very little interraction between the sexes until they are married. There are still many arranged marriages and the caste system still seems very strongly in place, despite comments that it’s changing. However, the men are obsessed with Western women. They have an image that we’re all easy prostitutes , perpetuated by some womens clothing choices, and LOVE to stare. Every time we’d stop during the 2 weeks men would come up to the car and stare or surround me if we got out making odd, slurpy noises. But, they would almost refuse to speak to me, always directing all conversation at Jim. Even our driver Yunis would always direct comments to Jim, although he was always very polite to me.

The filth here is almost unimaginable, there seems to be no such thing as garbage service and it’s generally all open sewers so the stench is quite nasty. With the “holy” cows, camels, goats and dogs wandering freely, as well as men peeing everywhere on the streets it’s essential to watch where you’re walking every second. Plastic bags, something we believe should be banned from existence, are stuck in simply every bush, fench, ditch, etc. and children are playing in all that garbage. And, ironically enough, even though the Hindu’s worship the cow, they allow them to roam freely eating garbage bags, whatever so there are cow hospitals around where they do surgery on approx. 1000 cows a week to remove the plastic bags that are twisted in their stomachs! That is when we hate India!

Then, you’ll come across an amazing fort, with intricate carvings set in marble or red sandstone and be overwhelmed with the artistry, or be driving along and see a herd of camels moving through the desert, or round a corner to a market filled with bright colored saris or eat an amazing curry or fish dish and realize why you love India.

It goes on like this everyday. Even at the Taj Mahal, truly a world wonder, you are so amazed at that tribute to love (even if Shah Jahan was a bit of a loon) and then repulsed while walking back to the car by the garbage along the street and all the local men relieving themselves.

The smaller towns, Pushkar in particular, was a fascinating street scene of men selling everything imaginable, every kid on a cell phone, women carrying baskets on their heads, the smell of spices combined with incense, and the market scene. Then, to interrupt the scene was the funeral procession and a few stray camels and donkeys walking by. It’s certainly the finest people watching anywhere and we are certainly never bored.

We have spent hours discussing things like: Why, if these people have internet and cell phones and t.v. and can travel, why why why do they continue to live in such deplorable conditions. We can understand very poor people who don’t know much better leaving garbage about, but even outside very nice houses in Delhi, the wealthy have to walk over or around piles of crap to get to their houses. What would cause someone to continue to live like that and who wants their children to play in that?

And, why in a society where men & women are not allowed to touch or kiss in public and are so segregated, is it ok for men to have homosexual relationships?? India recently beat out South Africa as having the highest number of aids in the world. Everywhere you see men walking down the street arms around eachother or fingers interlaced as they hold hands, sometimes as friends, but often because that is the only physical contact allowed? And yet, AIDS workers here are having a horrible time spreading the message because they say “We’re not gay, this isn’t sex, it’s just recreation”.

Every newspaper we read had India talking about becoming a world power, but we can’t see that ever happening. The general infrastructure is so badly out of date right now they’re having a tough time even getting atheletes willing to come in 2010 for the Commonwealth games due to the air quality in Delhi. And yet, while they’re redoing the airport, the officials refuse to even discuss working on changing air quality. One paper we read said that 30,000 (not a misprint) new cars and motorcycles are registered EVERY DAY in Delhi. Unbelievable!

We believe India has a lot going for it, it’s producing the finest engineers in the world who, unfortunately, all leave for western countries to work, they have amazing artisans, wonderful food, really friendly people, and a general zest for life that is missing in so many cultures, however, we believe their caste system will never allow them to progress to keep up with the times. Not that we feel they need to become like the US or Europe. But general change in infrastructure will only do good for the health and well being of this country. We have discussed some of these things with different people and the response is pretty much all the same, we know we’re 50 yrs behind the times but we believe we were born into a certain life and that is unchangeable. Even our driver Yunis. He believes he will only ever be a driver so it never crosses his mind to try to improve his lot in life, change to a different status, etc. Nothing is getting done here because the CONCEPT of change is completely foreign to much of the country.

The good news is, we have read newspaper columns, magazines, etc. where some of the younger generation are trying to change. However, the caste system of being born into a certain group is so ingrained we think it will take decades to overcome, if it ever can be.

All in all, India is proving to be just as intriguing, amazing, disgusting and challenging as we’d imagined. We are very glad we came and, in spite of it’s flaws, you really do get drawn in to the vibrancy of life here.

By next blog…who knows? Will it be a love it or hate it day?? Ha Ha. We’ll see.

Cheers, Jim & Rhonda

Southern India

Friday, February 22nd, 2008

As promised, I’m attempting to be better about blogging once again!

We’ve been down in Southern India for 1 week now and are enjoying it so much more than up north. We’re not freezing, for one thing, but the pace of life is just much more laid back here as well. Typical of the tropics.

Women here in the state of Kerala have much more clout than anywhere else in the country. They are actually out and about, working, willing to chat, etc. Many of the men, so used to seeing western beach goers are not such big starers but…today at lunch I again had a guy who wouldn’t talk to me and when Jim ordered lunch assumed I wanted the same thing. Have I mentioned yet that it is pissing me off???

We spent our first 3 nights at a bit of a splurge ($70/nt!) in Fort Cochin. It’s an island that is an old Portugese fort, also used by the Dutch during their spice trading heydey. Our Delight Guest House was just that. David, the owner was great, our room was large and beautiful with A/C and a great shower along with a balcony. The town is tiny and we spent the days walking everywhere, watching the local fisherman, and reading on our balcony.

After 3 nights there we had our first Indian train experience. We took a rickshaw to the station and acquiring the ticket (A/C class 4 hrs to Varkala) was no problem but getting anyone to tell us what platform our train was leaving from was a nightmare. No where on the tickets does it give the train number/ platform number/ or car number. So, we finally figured it out JUST as the train was pulling out and then had to force our way up about 10 cars (fully backpacked with tiny aisles spilling over with kids & luggage, etc) to an AC car. We were on board about 2hrs and the conductor came by to say we could move to the “correct” car or pay more. So, up again and finally in our correct place. Although he, also, couldn’t explain how we could have known that!

Anyway, ended up in Varkala and we’d made reservations for 4nts at Santa Claus Village, yep, silly name all right. The town was packed so we did end up taking the room which had a veranda with a lovely view of the ocean but without a doubt the most uncomfortable beds known to man. Truly, we’re more comfy sleeping in our backpacks on the ground! However, it was centrally located and as mentioned…this town was packed!

Varkala is a small town perched on a cliff overlooking the ocean with about 60 steps down to the beach. All of the restaurants and hotels are on the top and actual Varkala town is about 4km inland. It was a great place to hang for 4 days. We spent some of each day on the beach where you can rent beach chairs (ancient loungers) and umbrellas, but , alas, no drink service! Each night everyone would begin the parade to see which restaurant got their sunset viewing business for the day. Very peaceful. We read a few books, took walks everyday and caught up on emails.

Now, after another 2hr train ride (we got some extra info this time and it went smoother!) we’re in a town called Alleppy , which is the starting point for most backwater houseboat cruises. Kerala is famous for it’s thousands of kilometers of backwater and old rice barges have been converted to fancy overnight digs for we tourists! We’re here for 2 nights, taking the houseboat for 1 night, and then moving further inland to do some (hopefully) wildlife viewing and visit some tea plantations.

It’s hot & humid in this region of India…around 94 degrees F today and quite humid. Thank goodness for A/C sometimes! I know, I know, first too cold and now too hot! But, not complaining , we’d rather be in the tropics!

Hope everyone is well at home! Cheers, J&R

Rajastan

Thursday, February 21st, 2008
Hello again, Well, our 17 day tour of Rajastan/ Aga & Delhi was interesting to say the least! After Mandawa we headed for Bikaner. Bikaner is a neat little town of around 200,000 with a great old fort/palace and some good ... [Continue reading this entry]

Intro to India

Thursday, February 21st, 2008
Well, as everyone we know who'd been there had told us....India is a completely different world! And we did NOT have an auspicious beginning. We arrived in Delhi at 9pm and had to wait 1 1/2 hrs for our luggage. No ... [Continue reading this entry]

One Night in Bangkok

Sunday, February 10th, 2008
or however the song goes! So sorry for the LONG delay in getting a blog entry. The last 3 weeks have been busy, busy! We headed out to the BKK airport to pick up Ken & Wendy around 11pm on 14January. Thank ... [Continue reading this entry]