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February 21, 2005

A small town girl after all :)

(silvena) No matter how hard i tried to appreciate Mexico City, i never really did. Today we arrived in Merida ( the former Capital of the Maya civilization) on the Yucatan peninsular and i immediately livened up and felt happier. First things first, though, on our last day in Mexico City we visited the AND CLIMBED the two famous pyramids of Teotihuacan, which is belived to have been Mexico´s largest pre-Hispanic empire. It was a day of about 6km walking under the Mexican sun (both Michal and I came back from the trip a littler bit burned and VERY tired. We did however managed to climb both the Pyramid of the Sun (248 steps), built around 100 AD and the Pyramid of the Moon (somewhat smaller). Climbing up the huge stones, i could´t help but wonder, how did these people build those pyramids, if we are having such a hard time just climbing them. I have to admit that during this day, and as our trip progresses more and more, i feel kind o f embarrased as to what an amazing accomplishment we the Europeans have managed to destroy in no time (they say that most of the pre-Hisapanic civilizations were detroyed during two short years...).
ANyway, the trip was definitely worth it and our way to and from the Pyramids, we managed to see some of Mexico City´s suburbs, a site in itself, hill after hill (not to be mistaken with the green hills around LA), densely covered by concrete one and two storeyed unpainted houses.
In the evening we treated ourselves with a trip to one of Mexico City´s happening places, Zona Rosa, where we listened to a local rock band (yes, Michal was happy :) and i liked them too).

So back to Merida. The short one hour flight from Mexico City to Merida was largely uneventful, until its last stage when turbulence almost gave me a heart attack. In the few moments when i was not holding the seat as hard as i can and trying not to scream, we were perplexed by the view which opened itself when entering the Yucatan peninsular - vast nothingness - while we were still far up, we thought it must be swamps (some greyish brown color) but later we discovered it is just bare trees.

It is HOT here. 35 degrees. We are staying in quite a unique hotel, around a courtyard, with lots of vegetation and paintings on the walls, so the very very basic rooms will be easier to bear :) (we will try to post pictures of the last two days tomorrow when we find an internet place with a better connection).

I like Merida a lot. A small town (or at least it has this feeling even though it is 700 000). We have been here for just a few hours, but we already managed to enjoy the slow pace, to watch a folk dance performance on the town square surrounded by wonderful smiling local people and quite a few tourists flashing cameras, and to see the lowering of the flag on the main square(apparently a local tradition which is performed by a few military men under the sounds of a military band).

All from us for today. I am happy to report that we are both healthy and we have not had any major problems with the exception of some shoe issues... Also, Michal is speaking Spanish all the time and is getting better by the day. As for me, i wish i could say the same but not really. I walk with my little book (we each have one) but then when it comes to opening my mouth, it somehow doesn´t come easy. Oh well...

hasta luego :)


(michal) Since Silvy is so well covering the aspects of culture and history of the region that we are currently visiting and I am still in pain after climbing these huge and amazing Aztec priamids, I would like to focus on more down to earth aspect of our trip, and to be honest one of my favourite´s - eating. I am trying to try everything and I am so happy that Silvie doesnt eat so much! So I get to eat and try two dishes in the end! I will try to write about food and eating from time to time since wherever we go food changes..! Mniam mniam!

Even thougs I am not a big fun of Mexican food I have to admit that these folks really know how to cook and things taste so different and better from an other Mexican restaurant anywhere else. There is something about it, already I had the same experience with for example Bulgarian or Ukrainian food that tastes so good mostly when it is eaten in these countries!
Mexico is full of food! It is dificult to starve here! Everybody eats and streets are full of ´well-built´Mexicans. There are plenty of restaurants and bars amd often food is sold on the streets. The variety of food is huge and you can find here mostly the same things that you find in every Mexican restaurant back home. Withe a small exeption: what is really surprising is that so far we still have not seen any Burritos served, these Burritos that nota bene are considered to be a flagship of the Mexican cuisine. So far the easisest way to kill the hunger is to grab some things from the street (mostly tacos) that cost 0.20 EUR, (80 gr) each! Jesus, these things looks so tasty, but we still have some health concerns regarding this food! (the way it is served is sometimes a reason to doubt whether your stomach will take it) You can have your cheap taco, prepared by babushka on the street and filled with cheese, some green mole (Mexican sauce), or same paste made of beans that looks pretty much disgusting but thanks for being heavy is very caloric and thus a good hungerkiller.
I was really surprised with a widespread use of avocado! Mexicans throw avocados everywhere! This is such a great idea cos they do not use it only for guacamole - for example an interesting dish called ´pozole´is a combination of chicken meat, guigantic corn seeds and avocado - palce lizac!

The modern Mexican cuisine is not only echilladas, tortillas and nachos - it is also a combination of many elements that have their roots in the pre-Hispanic period. Yes, yes, there is something like a Mexican indeginious revival, coming back to the Aztec and Maya roots in many aspects of Mexican life. Also in cuisine - and that is why many dishes are composed of for example grass hoopers, ants, ants´larvae and beattles, you can also get an iguana meat over here. I have not tried ths stuff yet, but I will once my stomach is used to it. Will write a full report after that!

Posted by Michal & Silvena on February 21, 2005 02:18 AM
Category: Mexico
Comments

you must be kidding - food made of ants and stuff like this? I thought it was possible only in Tony Halik's films - all I can remember about these programmes was Tony sitting with some native indians smoking pot or drinkig :]

it would be cool if you could find some local rock bands!!! As far as Mexican rock is concerned I know only Mana, Molotov, and Tito and The Tarantula... not much :/ but I will be even cooler if you find some bands from Peru and your other destinations!!! :)

and of course the Aztec pyramids... I imagine it's unbelievable... When I was a child and I learned about Cortez and other conquerors I was shocked. In fact it's really interesting how this civilization would look like if it still existed :)

can't wait for your next post!!!

mucho besos!
hasta pronto!

Posted by: uOSIu on February 21, 2005 01:40 PM

Uosiu buraku kochany - dzieki za fajne wpisy, widze ze jestes najwiekszym suporterem naszej wyprawy! Przywioze ci pare mrowek z wyprawy - obiecuje ! :)

Posted by: Michal on February 22, 2005 04:14 AM

Dios mio!? Grashoppers??!! Other assorted bugs??!! And everyone thinks Georgians eat weird things!! Bah!! Having said that, however, now all of a sudden I am hungry.... more later...

Posted by: Jepiko on February 22, 2005 04:14 PM

All this food description makes me sooo hungry that I have to sacrifice browsing your blog and get out to get some boring borsh. Lucky you!!

Posted by: Assia on February 23, 2005 08:01 PM
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