Written log from September 14, 2005

When I dropped Price off at the train station and headed towards the bus station, I had no idea how my day would change in a matter of hours.

I was escorted on the bus by one of the many bustling attendants. I was thankful for a window few and was soon accompanied by the many Morrocans working their way to and fro Rabat.

I was a bit meloncholy and more than thankful to keep to my little corner of the world to myself. However, within an instant everything changed. The college student sitting in front of me asked to see my magazine, surprisingly in English. Within minutes his mother shuffled seats, so that he could sit beside me. At first, I was quiet, not wanting to be bothered but I relaxed thankful to have a kind voice taking the silence of solitude away.

His English was good, but broken. At first this caused a struggle causing many minutes of silence between us. Even with the breaks, the four hours of bus time flew by. Upon arrival the noise, the hussle and rush for the door of a final destination was evident. The push of disembarkment had become second nature to me and as I pushed my own way off, the hussle of the Meknes bus station was before my eyes. I moved along with the crowd to the bustling terminal but I noticed the boy was waiting outside. As he offered to carry my bag, I hesitated but welcomed the relief. Within minutes Mother and Son were two steps behind me in the baggage storage, in reading the board for next day departures and to the phone booth. As we called one hotel after another, we were welcomed with a "complete", "full" statement. The Mother being a Mother and the Son being kind offered to help me locate accomodations, not listed in the book and that I was to accompany him as he dropped off his mother at a relatives house. He made it clear ( I think for my conscious) that he would leave as soon as my accomodations were located. Since I had already struggled with the French language, I did not hesitate in accepting his kindness.

Needless to say that within a half an hour, I was taken through the narrow streets of Meknes. Each street in different shades of yellow or peach, the sun glowing on some parts making them shoot out like sunlight in your eyes.

As we walked, I could hear him and his Mother raising their voices prior to him turning and shyly asking me if I wanted to accompany them to her Brother's house. With nowhere else to go, I gladly accepted.

The front door was made of old wooden planks that were cracked, worn and clearly showed it's age and use of many years. As we entered through the front door, an old woman could be seen in the darkness in a doorway on the right. As we passed her door, there was an opening to a courtyard where there was a room on all four sides. We were ushered into a room on the left that contained, one armor, one double bed and a U shaped coach covered in green fabric. The ceilings were tall as steeples but they did not have any article hanging. The shyness of the boy escalated as the family members entered, it was the shyness of embarrasment I saw in his bowed head but I felt welcomed. The sound of love, kisses, laughter filled the small room and tea was issued in as the grandest of occassions.

I listened to the clear gossip of women and I smiled, for the sound of women is the same no matter where you are or what language is spoken. In the dark room, I had no idea that the sun had started to set outside but the women scurried around the coffee table, laying down glasses and napkins. Dinner was served....

Vermicelli noodles with cinnamon and powdered sugar...my mouth melted as we all leaned into the one central plate, with fingers only and began the feast. I did not need their iencouragement to eat for for it smelled and looked heavenly. It was the simpliest of meals, but all eyes fell on me for approval and the poor circumstances of 9 people eating from one plate never even crossed my mind until I realized everyone waited for me to finish before enjoying their portion. It took me aback, but I was grateful and felt at home with these loving people.

As I started to rise and thank them for their hospitality, it was insisted upon that I stay. I laughed and said, I would be honored. I soon realized that the pajamas I packed were not suitable for this family and I stated this to the boy on the bus. As I stood thinking about what was in my day pack, a pair of pajamas, that the cousin was about to change into were softly placed in my hands. I was proudly ushered by her to the changing room, the armour door opened while the family sat behind on the U shaped sofa, giggling. We all laughed and again I find myself adaptable to my surroundings. I was offered the bed and I refused. My bed was the U sofa setting, turned tea table, turned living room, turned dining room, turned bedroom. I shared the U sofa with three others, but a total of 9 slept in our one room. As everyone giggled and talked, it was clear I was part of the family. Yet, the Son remained the only person spoke English.

I had not needed the restroom for other than washing my hands till this point but as morning rose, so did a shower and restroom. A concerned faced led me to the courtyard and yet another old wooden door. A beaten door with only 2 planks remaining for coverage. For the first time I noticed that the open door concealed a spicket, a bucket and a turkish bathroom. All of which were shared by all the inhabitants of the complex, total number of users 16. The use and age were evident, the smell filtered to the "wash room" within the confined walls and even to the courtyard. The worry of my reaction was obvious on everyone's face but I smiled, giggled, held my breath and adapted. As approval, I closed the 2 blank door but a stop hand was thrusted through and one of the older women scurried to place a blanket over the frame so that I could conceal my bucket bath. I noticed that as kindness that they also had boiled a kettle of hot water for me.

As I bathed, washed my clothes, laughed and sang, I made them feel as comfortable as they had made me feel....and I stayed for a second night.

I was not homeless at all!

A day's excursion with part of the family. The Mom is in black with glasses and the Son is well, the only boy.

Meal on Day 2: Whole chicken W/olives and lemon sauce with Rice Salad...FABULOUS!!!

All for one, one for all.....fingers only, please.

The living room, dining room, bedroom...

P.S. I am sitting on my bed.