The scenic route along the coast of Croatia was amazing. There are miles of untouched coastline where the only sign of humans is the floaters of fisherman scattered here and there for a daily catch.

As we crossed the Bosnian boarder and started to climb the green mountains known for winter sports the two things I noticed are the beautiful rivers and creeks littered everywhere with trash and that each town shows the stress of a recent war. The unrecoverable bombed buildings still stand as the were left, except now they are marked with graffitti.

I admit, I noticed this less before hitting Mostar with its river side town and narrow streets lined with cafes, ice cream and souvenir stands.

As the site of a dessert box perked my curiousity, a kind voice beckoned me over for a closer look. A native Croatian now living in Charlotte, NC opened my eyes beyond the charm of the tourist center to the reality of war memories. As he left me with my gift of baklava, he stated he "use to have a beautiful city before the war".

With eyes open, I departed Mostar and took notice not only of the fruit stand vendors but that each town had bombed out homes and a relatively new cemetary along the road to a war ravished Sarajevo.

Life now returned to normality as they know it.