As we left Leon to the first hints of sun and the blue of cool morning cobblestones, Zach and I embraced in the classic "man hug." Its where you clasp hands like a standard handshake, but then pull the party in closer (as if to hug) and lightly punch their back with the clenched fist. It´s intimate while preserving masculinity, and is the departing gesture of choice for today´s modern man.

We have been traveling with Zach for something like two weeks now and its strange to say goodbye. It had become really comfortable; most people we met just thought the three of us had come together. But the Camino is about movement, and the one thing you have to do is keep going.

From this side of Leon, it seems like everyone has a sense of the end of it. No longer is the standard question "When did you start?" We have moved on to "When do you think you´ll get there"s. At this stage, more of your new friends make sure they have your email, in case you get separated in the next few days. One guy we met, just-retired Jim from New York, already has an email group set up for all of his Camino Pals.

Only 10 days away from Santiago, some people are starting to figure out what the trip might really be about for them. Sometimes its clear, but most of the time, "meanings" and significance of this walk are the sorts of things that can´t entirely be explained. Human language is at best a representation, and this is the type of situation in which it tends to fail.

Still, there is some consistency. Some have found that it is about new friends, new experiences, maybe starting a new part of their life. This is true both of the kids about to start working after college and the older folks just finished working and about to start relaxing. For others, its more traditional. They have come looking for grace, spirituality, Light.

With a simple online transaction today, Christina and I affirmed that it was not Light that we were seeking, but indeed, THE DARKNESS!

On July 15th, the entire city of Santiago de Compostela will be celebrating the Ano Santo (Holy Year) by rocking their friggin brains out with the most anachronistic band to hit the scene in years, Britain´s pleather-bound bad boys, the Darkness. Christina and I will be there, and we are pumped.

The irony that drips through the weird confluence of modernity and history in this Pilgrimage to Rock is wonderful. To celebrate the completion of a devout personal and spiritual trek by screaming ones brains out with 15,000 others is going to be just about as weird (and awesome) as weird (and awesome) gets.

Still, with ten days left, there are many more questions to be pondered and kilometers to be walked.

At least now we have a soundtrack.