Pink And Tent-like Marrakech
Founded in 1070–72 by the Almoravids, the Medina of Marrakesh remained a political, economic and cultural centre for a long period. Its influence was felt throughout the western Muslim world, from North Africa to Andalusia. It has several impressive monuments dating from that period: the Koutoubiya Mosque, the Kasbah, the battlements, monumental doors, gardens, etc. Later architectural jewels include the Bandiâ Palace, the Ben Youssef Madrasa, the Saadian Tombs, several great residences and Place Jamaâ El Fna, a veritable open-air theatre. The area is an UNESCO World Heritage Site.
There is no chance of an American avoiding his/her cultural filters in a country like Morocco-just as I suspected! “Lets Go” travel guide describes Marrakech as a city of immense beauty, low, pink and tent-like before a great shaft of mountains and the book is right on. Its an immediately exciting place especially around the central square, Djemaa el Fna, the stage for shifting circles of onlookers who gather around groups of acrobats, drummers, pipe musicians, dancers, story-tellers, snake charmers and comedians.
The square lies at the heart of the Medina and almost everything of interest is around the web of alleyways coming off it. The main souk, or market, area is off the northern corner of the square and if you enter it you likely could never find your way out. We commented immediately that this was the best market we had ever seen-even better than Istanbul’s covered Bazaar-which is going some.
In the plaza in front of the souk is Jema El-Fna. Before sunset, sit on a terrace, sip hot mint tea, and take in the panoramic view of the teeming central square. As the sun lowers in the sky, the ancient mud walls turn pink to orange and smoke wafts as hundreds of cooks start barbecuing. The food stalls are organized in rows; the local fare is sumptuous; and the prices are fixed, which is a nice break after haggling in the souks or square for everything from henna to a photo with a monkey or snake charmer. Seating is picnic table-style so don’t be shy, grab a seat and talk with your neighbor. It’s a great chance to meet fellow travelers and locals alike. After a feast of tagine, cous cous and olives, wash it down with fresh orange juice. Wander the square and be entranced by fire jugglers, musicians, dancers, fortune-tellers and storytellers. As you walk back to your riad through the medina, listen for the evening call to prayer rising from the Koutoubia Mosque. Marrakech is one of the most magical cities in the world.
Bob, by this time, was off and running. First day he was wearing a 40 pound brown cotton jallaba-the full length “gown” with a hood that is the traditional garment for men and a pair of leather “slippers” that he had bargained for in the souk. By the second day he was wearing a “sesh”(pronounced “shish”) the traditional Berber scarf wrapped around the head with an end hanging down the back or over the shoulder. He wore the sesh the entire time he was in Morocco. He swore up and down the jallaba wasn’t hot. But it was difficult for me to under-stand how the local people could wear two and three and four layers of clothes in 90 degree heat-even if it was a dry heat!
We checked into Hotel Ali, on rue Moulay Ismail, near Boulevard Mohammed V, that was highly recommended in the Lonely Planet guidebook just off the square. (Guidebooks are a double edged sword-they can make your life easier on the road like in Morocco but if you follow them you can be assured you will be in the middle of the tourist areas!) We had the best room in the compound for $13 per night breakfast included and the internet on site was about 25 cents an hour.
On the third floor, no lift, the room had a large bathroom with tub/shower, WC, bidet and sink and french doors opened to a large veranda overlooking the street below. Soap, towels, A/C and TP were an added bonus and English was spoken at the desk so we were all set!
The square was half a block from the hotel so the self contained compound that offered a nice respite from the noise and confusion on the outside.
The first night our table was next to three English couples who travel through Morocco every winter in two recreational vehicles. The next night we sat next to a Dutch couple. She was on her way to the Atlas Mountains to lead a trek with two other people. She does this regularly, she says.
Walked to the Artisan Shops near the square where prices are fixed. Bought myself a pair of (babouches) slippers for $5 since by now I was regretting throwing away my black slip-ons in Lisbon. For lunch we filled up on delicious dates, figs and some other desserts sweetened with honey.
Tags: African Continent, Food, Hostels & Guesthouses, Hotels, Hotels,Hostels & Guesthouses, Markets, Marrakech, Morocco, UNESCO World Heritage Sites
Zoe
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