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When Is An Expat Not An Expat

Sunday, May 19th, 2013

When I refer to myself as an expat in Mexico, I often get asked “what is an expat.” Now I am in the position of having to change my Mexican visa from a temporary one to a permanent one which means I will have to pay for Mexican registration on my car and get Mexican plates. Surprisingly, I have a gut aversion to this. Or go back across the border and come in again as a tourist. Do I want to be a Residente Permanente?

Today Garrison Keillor posted a poem by Paul Zimmer on his Writer’s Almanac web site entitled “Amongst The French.”

I do not have their words,
do not have their years or customs.
Passing them on the road,
shy as fog passing down
slopes into the valley,
I always give first utterance
or make an uncertain gesture.

My neighbors are kind,
knowing I am like rain,
that if they wait long enough,
in time I will go away.

It is the same for me in
all directions—under stars
swarming out of foothills,
on the gravel I churn
with my shoes—east, west,
north, or south—the same.
If I remained in
this friendly place forever,
I would always be a stranger.

This got me to thinking. It’s not just true in France of course. It’s true of anyone leaving their birth country and moving to another one. It’s true for me in Mexico and it’s especially true for Thailand. Apparently another “expat” has been thinking about this too and the following has been lifted from his blog Life In Prana

When is an expat not an expat?
Writing about my friend Al recently, I was reminded of an encounter I had with a particularly obnoxious Englishman in Khong Chiam a couple of years back. I was researching restaurants for a guide book at the time and he told me that no farangs like Thai food so I was wasting my time. I pointed out that in England Thai restaurants were very popular and he replied that he couldn’t live in England any more. When I asked him why that was, he said that there were too many immigrants in England and they made no effort to integrate, in particular they insisted on having their own food and did not learn to speak English. This seemed pretty rich coming from what I had already learned about him and I certainly did not detect any sense of irony in his remarks.

I pointed out to him that he and I are both immigrants in Thailand but he refuted this. We are expats, he told me. What is the difference, I asked. His answer to that was: “I should think the difference is obvious.”

What is obvious, I think, is what he was implying.

A result of this encounter has been that I have developed a dislike of the word ‘expat’, seeing it as denoting a sense of superiority. I realise that this is not entirely rational, or at least is not fully deserved. Some of my best friends are expats, as they say. There is some evidence, however, that the word is not exactly neutral. People from neighbouring countries who come to work in Thailand are referred to as ‘migrant workers’ whereas office workers in Bangkok who come from further afield are always known as expats. There is surely an implied racial (but not necessarily racist, let me be clear) element to phrases such as ‘expat hang-outs’ and ‘expat food’. I am reminded that Pensri worked in the UK for 30+ years, held a UK passport before arriving, and was often referred to as an immigrant, but never ever as an expat.

But whether a word is neutral or loaded (postively or negatively) is often a matter of intention on the part of the speaker or interpretation on the part of the hearer. For me, ‘farang’ is a neutral word on most occasions, but I think I can tell when the intention is otherwise, and that is sometimes positive and sometimes negative.

Time for some help from reference books. The Chambers Thesaurus entries for ‘expat’ and ‘immigrant’ are sugestive of a difference in emphasis: EXPAT: emigrant, emigre, exile, refugee, displaced person. It seems that the emphasis here is on someone who has LEFT their native country. IMMIGRANT: incomer, settler, migrant, newcomer, new arrival, alien. Here the emphasis is on ARRIVAL.

Two dictionary definitions (Shorter Oxford) suggest the same thing but also add the idea of temporary and permanent residence: EXPAT: person living abroad, especially for a long period. IMMIGRANT: person who comes as a permanent resident to a country other than one’s native land.

So in the end, there seems no doubt that whatever I may think about the word, since I am still a permanent resident of the UK who spends a lot of time abroad, when I am in Thailand for six months as I am now, I am most definitely an expat. That is not the conclusion I had expected to reach, but I am comfortable with it nonetheless. The all-embracing term ‘foreigner’ is still more to my liking, but I am less happy about ‘alien’. But there we are. Call me what you like.

I just don’t want to be called a fresa. Literally meaning “strawberry”, the word “fresa” is used in Mexican slang to denote anyone spoiled or soft. Of all the wide and imaginative range of Mexican insults this, for them, is the worst. For men it is acceptable to be a large goat (cabrón) or even, on occasion, a pubic hair (pendejo). But for anyone to be a strawberry is unforgiveable.

Family Reunion on Koh Samui

Monday, February 18th, 2013

The Big Deals...Josh, Greg, Doug

Me And Greg

It had been Christmas 15 years ago, Josh remembered, when the whole family…Bob, Greg, Josh, Doug and I…had been all together at one place at the same time.

Bob Charmed The Help

Luk, Doug's Thai Wife

Polly, Josh's SO

So Bob, retired from his pediatric practice in Salem, Oregon and realizing we weren’t getting any younger, rented a resort villa on the island of Koh Samui in the Gulf of Thailand where Doug lives part of the year in a rented bungalow with his Thai wife Luk. We chose Thailand because Doug was already there and it was easier than trying to get Luk a tourist visa to any other country.

Josh brought his Cantonese significant other, Polly, from Hong Kong where he lives and works as the Executive Chef at the American Club. (Not that it has anything to do with America!) Greg had taken off a couple weeks of his anesthesiology practice in Las Vegas to meet Josh in Hong Kong and then spend a few days in Hanoi together before flying down to Samui. Bob flew in from Pattaya where golf is his life. In November 2012 I had flown in from Oaxaca Mexico where I live so it was no problem to fly down from Bangkok where I had been sitting in a dental chair for days.

Four whole days together was wonderful but it was just about the right amount of time for resort living. We all had our own villas right on the ocean. Several Thai girls and a cook were at our beck and call. They spread out an elegant breakfast of our choice each morning by the pool. A massage table by the pool was ready for us. Doug and I had rented a pick-up and Josh and Greg rented motorbikes to run around the island. The only decisions we had to make were what to eat the rest of the day.

Sitting there watching the boys in the water I shivered remembering Christmas of 2004 when Doug and Luk almost lost their lives in their bungalow 14 feet from the water when the tsunami hit the Krabi coast. About 8 in the morning Doug heard what he thought was a bomb. Lukily they had the doors and windows closed. When he pulled back the curtains to the sliding doors, the water was engulfing the entire bungalow. When the first wave went out they grabbed their phones and ran up the hill behind the house.

But then Luk wouldn’t live on the Krabi beach anymore. She said there were many ghosts and she wouldn’t eat the fish because she said the fish had eaten the people. So Doug had rented a pickup to move them to Koh Samui on the other side of the Thai peninsula in the Gulf of Thailand. I was in Bangkok at the time and seeing the news on TV I was frantic. But after 30 minutes of trying to get through to them on the phone I heard those sweet sweet voices. A movie about the tsunami is in the theaters now called “Impossible.” I can’t bear to see it.

Anyway, this was the first time any of us had experienced a self-contained resort like this. But as we were all very familiar with Thailand and Thai life, we weren’t sacrificing anything by isolating ourselves. We did remark how sad it is that many people only experience a country in this way though. Our time together ended with “When are we going to do this again?” All of us looking at Bob who footed the bill! LOL

New Zealand Next?

Monday, February 18th, 2013
Met a really nice bright young Swiss guy in the breakfast room while at the Sarisanee who has been living in New Zealand. He talked up NZ and of course now I want to go there! He, a self-described punker ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangkok And Thonburi

Monday, February 18th, 2013
After traveling through central Thailand with Supaporn, I returned to Bangkok to get started on my dental plan at the Bangkok International Dental Clinic. My mainstay, the Queen Lotus Guesthouse just off Sukhumvit 20 welcomed me anew. I left my ... [Continue reading this entry]

Solo In Bangkok

Friday, December 14th, 2012
From rice fields to the Royal Bangkok Sport Club! Took a short cut yesterday, saved money on a taxi, and hiked a trail across the golf course of the club. On through a construction area where a guy let ... [Continue reading this entry]

Doug Brings Electricity To Samui

Saturday, December 8th, 2012
Doug, my son, flew into Bangkok yesterday from Oregon to fly out again two days later to spend his annual several months with his wife, Luk, on the island of Koh Samui. We had a bit of a scare ... [Continue reading this entry]

On A Rice Farm Near Korat Thailand

Saturday, December 8th, 2012
[gallery] Following our trail from Bangkok to Tak in the west of north central Thailand to Sukhothai and then east to Lop Buri and further east to Saraburi, Supaporn and I ended up at her home about 50km outside of Korat ... [Continue reading this entry]

Saraburi Thailand

Saturday, December 8th, 2012
[gallery] Buddhist legend holds that during his lifetime the Buddha left footprints in all lands where his teachings would be acknowledged. In Thailand, the most important of these "natural" footprints imbedded in rock is at Phra Phutthabat in Central Thailand ... [Continue reading this entry]

Monkeys In Lop Buri Thailand

Saturday, December 8th, 2012
Lopburi is famous for the hundreds of crab-eating macaques that overrun the Old Town, especially in the area around Phra Prang Sam Yot and Phra Kaan Shrine, and there's even ... [Continue reading this entry]

Sukhothai Historical Park

Saturday, December 8th, 2012
[gallery] We stayed in the Ban Thai Guesthouse in New Sukhothai on an old road full of backpacker guesthouses bordering the Yoh River that runs through "new town." Unfortunately during the floods of 2011 the city was inundated with water and ... [Continue reading this entry]

Loy Krathong in Tak Thailand

Saturday, December 8th, 2012
[gallery] Krathong takes place on the evening of the full moon of the 12th month in the traditional Thai lunar calendar. In the western calendar this usually falls in November. Loi means 'to float', while krathong refers to a usually lotus-shaped container ... [Continue reading this entry]

Thanksgiving in Bangkok

Friday, November 30th, 2012
[caption id="attachment_1850" align="aligncenter" width="300" caption="Cincinnati Bob, Oregon Bob and me"][/caption] The American owner of the Bourbon Street Bar and Grill, just off the Ekamai skytrain exit, really served up quite a TG ... [Continue reading this entry]

Around The World Again 2012-13

Thursday, November 8th, 2012
Well, Facebook has cut into my blogging time. But since I am living in Mexico I love to keep up with my couchsurfers and friends I have made traveling besides friends left behind in the U.S. People say they prefer ... [Continue reading this entry]

Want Beautiful Thai Girl?

Sunday, July 4th, 2010
To all foreign men who visit Thailand in search of a beautiful Thai girl who will "love you long time." The video is good but the comments are best.

Back Home in Oaxaca

Saturday, May 29th, 2010
Whew!  What a ride! A week in Vegas, a month in Salem Oregon, a week in Hong Kong, 5 months in Thailand (4 in Bangkok and a month on Koh Samui) a week in Hong Kong again, 2 weeks in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Big Cleanup Day In Bangkok

Sunday, May 23rd, 2010

About 10,000 Bangkok residents, including teenagers and foreigners have joined hands to help the (BMA) clean Ratchaprasong Intersection and surrounding areas in the ‘Big Cleaning Day’ activity. Said that they must help clean Bangkok together because it is their home. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Recap on Thailand

Saturday, May 22nd, 2010
The current situation in Thailand is not necessarily due directly just to the political history,  but indirectly because of all the long-standing alliances and divisions between parties, the military and the privy council members who are all trying to position ... [Continue reading this entry]

Political Options For Thailand?

Saturday, May 22nd, 2010
Simon Montlake has an article in the Christian Science Monitor speculating on the political future now that the rally is over. It doesn't bode well for Thailand because neither the the Yellows (PAD Party) or the Reds (Thaksin) ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bangkok Calming

Friday, May 21st, 2010
 Well, the most you could say about this recent conflict in Thailand is that even if the rancor remains for decades, there is a whole generation that is now politicized.  The Reds from up-country have undergone a process known here ... [Continue reading this entry]

Big Picture Bangkok Crackdown

Wednesday, May 19th, 2010
Boston Globe Incredibly good photos of Bangkok during Red Shirt Crackdown Photos and narrative explaining the political situation in Thailand

Burning Of Bangkok

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
Just about eight minutes after the Red Shirt leaders gave their last speech on the main rally stage to jeers and tears, just before they gave themselves up to police who were closing in, flames and black smoke from burning ... [Continue reading this entry]

Red Shirt Leaders Surrender

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
Washington Post Foreign Service Wednesday, May 19, 2010; 2:06 PM

BANGKOK -- Thai soldiers launched an assault Wednesday against "red shirt" protesters in a military operation that forced anti-government protest leaders to surrender but left parts ... [Continue reading this entry]

Last Speech of Red Shirt Leader Before Surrender

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
Part of above speech with English subtitles telling the Red Shirts to burn the country. [Continue reading this entry]

Two Faces Of The Thai Uprising

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
Thaksin's vendetta is wrecking the country By Sopon Onkgara The Nation
BANGKOK: -- After a few days of armed skirmishes between rioters, terrorists and government troops in areas around Rajprasong, an end to the trouble remains elusive, despite the deadline given for the ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Brink Keeps Moving Forward

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
I have this theory that when Thaksin met with Hun Sen in Cambodia he arranged to have Cambodian mercenaries come to Thailand. It makes sense, while there is no love lost between Thailand and Cambodia, why all of a sudden ... [Continue reading this entry]

Pongpat’s Tear-jerking Speech at Thai TV-Radio Awards

Tuesday, May 18th, 2010
He is talking about Thailand (the house) and the King of Thailand in code.

Hong Kong! Relief from Heat And Chaos of Bangkok

Monday, May 3rd, 2010
So the Reds are keeping up the pressure in Bangkok. My yellow shirt friend didn't want me to take a taxi to the airport yesterday for a flight to Hong Kong (taxis being almost all Red because most ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Yellow (now Multi-Color) Side

Monday, May 3rd, 2010
This Red opposition, called the "Royalists" (PAD Party) who support the King of Thailand but also termed by many Reds as "the Bangkok elites" because the "ignorant" Red farmers feel they are condescending and derisive and too fond of old ... [Continue reading this entry]

Police Confront Reds Near Don Muang Airport

Wednesday, April 28th, 2010
About 2000 protestors in trucks and on motorcycles from the Saladaeng rally site were led by Red leader Kwanchai Phraiphana on a march to Talad Thai Market near Don Muang Airport to urge people to join the rally site. ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Matter of the Thai Monarchy

Tuesday, April 27th, 2010
Unspoken until now, in the background, is the matter of the Thai Monarchy.  The beloved king is old and sick and on his way out.  Many are wondering what will happen when he dies.  His son is unsuitable to replace ... [Continue reading this entry]