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Fantasy Land?

Friday, January 25th, 2008

Day 81

Ever been to a place where it seemed everything was perfect? We have been to maybe a few on our travels but not many places have compared with Isla Ometepe. The guidebooks touted that the island has a fairlytale like feel, they were right on with that. Since most of our time on Ometepe was spent sitting on our veranda I have condensed a few days into this one entry.

Our first morning on the island we decided to rent some bikes with Jonathan to explore the other end of Ometepe, also there are some ancient petroglyphs to be seen. After breakfast we were introduced to some of Ometepes residents. Directly in front of our bungalow, literally no more than 2 meters away from us were a troop of Howler monkeys in the trees. Such an incredible sight to see this usually elusive monkeys so close. The peaked down at us, made the odd grunting sound and pissed just in front of our bungalow. It was about the coolest thing we had seen on the trip to date. Eventually they moved on and so did we with our uncomfortable mountain bikes. We spent the day riding up some steep hills, well mostly walking our bikes up them, and then racing back down the other side. We saw some petroglyphs, although they were overrated. The main attraction was the incredible beauty of the green landscape and the 2 large volcanoes always looming overhead. It was a strenuous but rewarding day. When we returned we met Mike, Daniel and Jody from Calgary. Turns out Jonathan had met Mike and Daniel way back in Guatemala.

We fell into a comfortable routine the rest of our stay on the island. We would wake up around 9am and have some gallo pinto for breakfast. Then head out for a walk on one of the trails surrounding the hotel. Hiking is great here, you almost always spotted howler monkeys, bright blue magpie birds, crazy coloured butterflies and all sorts of lizards. Of course the views over the lake and volcanoes were incredible.

Late afternoon the group from Calgary, and Jonathan would join us on our veranda for beers. It felt like we were up at the cottage with long time friends, oh except the howler monkeys that were overhead. We drank, talked hockey and solved all the worlds problems. Eventually we headed into the restaurant for dinner, always tilapia for us fish eating vegetarians. The sunset was always an incredible orange and as soon as it set the bright glow of fireflys filled the sky. After dinner was more drinks and several card games of shithead. The friendly staff would joke with us and probably wondered if we were ever going to leave.

Eventually we did leave, although I think I could have stayed for a long time. Ometepe is the one place we have been so far that we both agree we must get back to one day. We left early morning with Jonathan, the Calgary group was headed north. Us three were trying to get to San Jose before night fall. As I got on that bus to the ferry I already missed Ometepe.

Charco Verde

Monday, January 21st, 2008

Day 77

After another breakfast of gallo pinto we are off to catch the island bus to Charco Verde, or Green Lagoon. I wonder how long until I get sick of fried beans, rice and eggs for breakfast? Out on the main street of town we wait for the hourly bus that circles the island. As we wait a man drives up in a taxi and offers to drive us for $6, I guess I’m feeling rich today so we accept. As we begin the drive I do the math in my head. $6 for this taxi instead of the 25 cent bus, that’s a 7 beer difference! Yes, after travelling for a while beer becomes a great measure of value.

As we arrive at Charco Verde we are instantly relaxed. The staff is incredibly friendly and our room couldn’t be any better. We have our own bungalow about 5 meters from the water. Our room is huge with A/C, a large front veranda and 3 double beds just in case we have any guests. All this for $25/night. Oh and the beer is 75 cents, that’s good value. I can tell right away this is going to be the sort of place that is tough to leave. Its so peaceful here, there is no town here. Just 2 places to stay right on the lake with 1km of farm land separating the 2 hotels from the main road. In front of us sits Lake Nicaragua and a glimpse behind us, inland looms the tall, green peak of the volcano poking out of the clouds.

We spend the rest of the day just hanging out on our veranda. We see Jonathan from the Hotel Ali. Turns out he is staying here as well. At night we dine on cheap yet tasty tilapia from the lake and drink many cervezas with Jonathan. Jordana and I fall asleep to the sound of gentle waves lapping ashore. It was a great night and Charco Verde looks like the type of place we may get “stuck” at for a while.

Giants, Packers and a Toad

Sunday, January 20th, 2008
Day 76 Up early today and out of our hot room to catch a bus south to Rivas and the ferry to Isla Ometepe. The bus station in Granada is no more than a gravel yard with a few chicken buses ... [Continue reading this entry]

New Colonialism

Saturday, January 19th, 2008
Day 75 We had slept in today, 9:30am. You may think that the life of a longterm traveller is party all night ans sleep all day but truth is we rarely sleep past 8am. This isn't really a vacation, its our ... [Continue reading this entry]

Polished and Popular

Friday, January 18th, 2008
Day 74 We transited through Managua for a night on our way south to Granada. It was immediately apparent Granada was going to be different than the rest of Nicaragua. Over the last few years it has become a very ... [Continue reading this entry]

Las Penitas

Wednesday, January 16th, 2008
Day 72 Only 25km from the city of Leon lies the small beach town of Las Penitas. A scruffy, small village with only a few place (3) to stay and some of the best surfing in Central America.  Jordana and I headed out here to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Hot and Cultured

Monday, January 14th, 2008
Day 70 When we decided to go to El Salvador it meant that rather than backtrack to see the rest of Honduras we would just tuck into the country and then head south to Nicaragua, where we planned on spending more ... [Continue reading this entry]