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The Return to Guate

Wednesday, January 2nd, 2008

Day 58
So we are near the end of our time in Guatemala and heading south to El Salvador but before we do we are stopping once again in Guatemala City, yes the same city I referred to as a shithole previously. Why? Well everyone we meet has also asked us why. So here is our dirty backpacking secret to our return to Guate. My lovely sister Melissa has given us a night at the Radisson in Guatemala City as a christmas gift. Shhh don’t tell the other backpackers, we’ll lose our street cred.

We left Jaibalito at 7am with a vicious wind howling outside. It had knocked out power and that meant no hot water in the cool morning air. I skipped the cold shower and Jordana braved the icy water to wash up. Cold showers in cold weather don’t make much sense to me. We walked down to the dock to catch one of the small motor boats back to Panachael for the bus to Guatemala city. The lake was angry today and looking at the small boats it made both of us a bit worried. I’d guess the wind was blowing at 80km/h. Waves crashed against the dock and mist blew off the lake in swirls. We made it to Panachael safely and relatively dry. After a typical breakfast of beans, eggs and tortilla we caught a bus back to Guatemala city. The same city we couldn’t leave fast enough just a few weeks ago.

We easily got a taxi from the bus station to the Radisson, the driver first quoted us a crazy high fare. Obviously thinking since we were staying at this nice place we were able to pay over the standard price. As we pulled up to the hotel we were both surprised. This part of Guatemala city was nothing like the centre of the city where we had stayed before. Zona 10, is named the Zona Viva or life zone for its abundance of nightlife. I still think its really because you are less likely to get shot here. I’d change the name of all the zones here to reflect the neighbourhoods situation. For example, the centre or Zone 1 where we stayed before would be the Danger Zone.

Right, so we checked in and they surprisingly treated us well. Usually at places like this once they see your pack you are looked at differently from the other guests. Our room was incredible, a huge suite with seating area, a kitchen, and then the sleeping area. It was about the same size as the condo we lived in back in Toronto. We were on the 15th floor so we had a great view and the city almost looked nice from up here. We walked out on the clean streets which were remminicent of suburban Florida and had some great Italian food. At night we took advantage of our 100 channels of cable and got a pizza from Pizza Hut, microwaved some popcorn and settled in to watch a movie on the comfy sofa. The intense wind storm continued outside and knocked out power to the entire city, except us. We had backup power at our luxury hotel. It was quite a sight to see such a large city in darkness.

It was a nice break staying at the Radisson (thank sis!). It was also interesting to see the contrast of rich and poor in the city. Zona 10 was another world from what we first experienced in the city. Some say its not the “real” Guatemala, but sure it is. Its just another aspect of the country. A very important aspect, the issue of class division is huge here and it was a good experience to see it first hand. Although we were both very ready and eager to move on to El Salvador. We hadn’t met many people going to El Salvador and the ones we told that we were going there next warned us about how dangerous it was. I could never understand that though, none of them had ever even been to the country. Well we would find out first hand soon enough.

Nothing Changes on New Years Day

Monday, December 31st, 2007

Day 56

We had to move hotels today since the Jinava is booked for New Years. We figured a bit of a splurge was in order for New Years eve so we called ahead and reserved at the Vulcano Lodge in Jaibalito. At $40/night it wasn’t exactly breaking the bank. Jaibalito is just a 25 minute ride from San Marcos and since it is unreachable by road it promised to be a very quiet new years.

We climbed off the boat at Jaibalitos dock and walked uphill on the villages main “street”, although since there are no cars let’s call it a sidewalk. We passed friendly locals and laughing kids playing football, it was a good first impression. Finally we reached a sign pointing the way to the hotel, it was set just under some cliffs on the upper end of the village. Sprawling grounds, attractively landscaped with small cabins to stay in. Our room was spotless, large and well decorated with a fabulous front veranda. We had a hammock, a couple of chairs and a great view. It was tough to imagine a more relaxing place.

The hotel is owned by a very friendly Norwegian couple. They bought the place 14 years ago and slowly have transformed it into one of the best places I have ever stayed at. That night for our new years dinner they had setup large table for 12. All the guests, staff and themselves sat down for a new years eve feast, it was like dinner with family. The food was laid out buffet style and we could just take what and how much we wanted.

After dinner some guests headed to bed but Jordana and I were determined to be up at 12am to bring in 2008. We got a bottle of wine and sat on our veranda waiting for the new year to arrive. With a candle, mosquito col burning and some low key music on the iPod it was the quietest new years we have had yet one of the most enjoyable.

I don’t have much else to report from our time at Jaibalito. We spent most of it on our veranda in a hammock. Hence the title of this post, sorry I just wasn’t feeling creative and I always think of U2 on new years. When we tired of that we strolled through the village to say hi to the children and buy some bananas for lunch. It was a perfect way to start 2008, a year that promised to be filled with new countries, adventure and excitement.

Happy new year!

Vacation from the World

Friday, December 28th, 2007
Day 53 Up early for the bus to Lake Atitilan, Chichicastenango had returned to its normal self. The market stalls were down but would be back up in just a few days for the Sunday market. We made the short walk ... [Continue reading this entry]

You Can’t Buy a Sunset

Thursday, December 27th, 2007
Day 52 Chichicastenango is set beautifully in a high valley surrounded by green mountains. To reach the city the final accent is a series of sharp turns on a steep hill, it feels remote and isolated. All that isolation is lost ... [Continue reading this entry]

Navidad Verde

Tuesday, December 25th, 2007
Day 50 Feliz Navidad, it just doesn't sound the same as merry christmas. I realize it means the same thing but to my language challenged ears it doesn't. The closer we got to Christmas the more I told Jordana that we ... [Continue reading this entry]

Liquid Hot Magma

Saturday, December 22nd, 2007
Day 47 Now when you read the title of this post you need to use Dr. Evil's voice from Austin Powers. Otherwise its like watching a 3D movie without the glasses. Right, so go back and say it again just as ... [Continue reading this entry]

North Into the Highlands

Wednesday, December 19th, 2007
Day 44 We were up and out of our guesthouse by 7am on our way to find a bus north to the highland city of Quetzeltenango. Getting around guatemala may not be luxurious but its very easy. On our way to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Prime Rib and some Ben Stiller on the side

Tuesday, December 18th, 2007
Note: I have finally added a some photos, and hopefully many more to come! Check for the link on the right side of the page. To make it easy here it is... http://picasaweb.google.com/mikejordana/CentralAmerica Day: 41 to 43 The next ... [Continue reading this entry]

A Tight Fit

Saturday, December 15th, 2007
Day 40 We awoke in the morning, packed up and before we even had breakfast were in a taxi to the bus station. We were headed only 45km away from Guatemala City but it would feel like we were leaving ... [Continue reading this entry]

Barred Up In Guate

Friday, December 14th, 2007
Day 39 We were aboard the Monja Blanca company's "luxury" bus to Guatemala city or as everyone here refers to it, Guate. It sounded luxurious, the White Orchid bus company, and on the luxury bus no less. In reality ... [Continue reading this entry]