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Argentina…Again

Wednesday, September 24th, 2008

Day 180

Finally the time had come to move on from Valparaiso. A place it would be very easy to get comfortable in for a few weeks or months. Maybe another time though, the pull of visiting a new place, Mendoza and returning to Argentina was strong.

We left the Luna Sunrisa by taxi at 8am with our new friend Tom the Irishman. The three of us had already purchased tickets for the trip to Mendoza the previous day so when we arrived at the bus station we easily boarded our bus and were soon off. About 4 hours into the journey we passed the town of Rio Blanco. The trip was beautiful but as we climbed a series of 29 hairpin turns to the ski resort of Portillo it became spectacular. Huge mountains loomed above us and there was snow everywhere. These are the highest mountains in the world outside of the Himalayas. It was the most impressive part of the Andes we had seen yet. The bus drove through a tunnel and people skied down the mountain over top of us. Soon we entered the Argentine border control.

As we climbed off the bus waiting to go through customs I had to pick up some snow and toss a few snow balls. I like winter and since I missed winter last year, so this was quite a sight for myself. As with most border crossings, this one was simple and soon enough we were barrelling down the Andes to the warmer plains and the city of Mendoza.

It was a strange feeling pulling into the bus station. The same station our travels abruptly ended just 5 months ago. Jordana, Tom and myself grabbed our bags and found a taxi into the city centre. After checking out a few hostels that were full we decided Jordana would wait with the bags and Tom and I would search for acceptable accommodation.

“I feel like I could write a guidebook on Mendoza already.” I said to Tom as we left the 7 place that was either to expensive, dirty or full. At least we got an introductory tour on the city centre. It was a pleasant tree filled city. The buildings were mostly recent constructions due to the earthquakes that have destroyed Mendoza a few times. In the end we decided the second hotel we had seen, Hotel Necochea was unfortunately the best of the bunch. It was an OK price, $30 but not what you would expect to get for that in Argentina.

The three of us headed out for some pizza, Argentine style. Well maybe just Mendoza fast food style. Thick crust, loads of greasy cheese and large slabs of anchovies. With the $1 pints or chopps as they are called here, I wasn’t complaining. Actually the pizza was tasty and as we enjoyed it outside with a bottle of local Malbec wine it was a fine way to return to Argentina.

Tattered Beauty

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008

Day 179

Valparaiso was one of those cities which grew on you.  Personally I loved it the moment I walked out the door of our hostel, Luna Sunrisa.  I turned to the right and through the thick fog I could make out a few boats and ships in the bay.  The streets were cobbled, yet crumbling and the buildings around were tattered and some were nothing more than shacks.  One block down our street turned into a pedestrian street, not intentionally, the street had just been ignored by the public works and was now overgrown with trees and weeds.  It was beautiful.  Somehow though this tangled mess of a city, which hung onto hillsides over the Pacific gave off a romantic and inspirational feeling.  A bit like Havana, but more bohemian with the grit and characters of a port city.

The Luna Sonrisa hostel had a great group of friendly travelers staying there.  We had met up with Tom, an Irishman who we hit it off with immediately.  The three of us headed out of the hostel today to explore more of Valpo.  First off we headed to the port area, still a huge working port this is what Valpo truly was, a port city.  First established as a port in1542 for trade with Peru it wasn´t until the 19th century that the port was truly established.  It was mainly used during the goldrush days.  Ships sailing from the U.S. east coast around South America and back north to California.  However the city suffered with the building of the Panama Canal and the rail across America.  OK enough ofthehistory lesson, fast forward to today.  The huge cranes and many ships in the bay showed us that Valpo was still a major Pacific port.

The three of us made our way near the dirty water and jumped on a small boat for a tour of the inner harbour.  It was interesting enough to be in such a small boat as we slowly maneuvered among the massive shipping boats. However the real hilight was the two sea lions we saw.  I have no idea how they survive in that water, it was filthy.  As we docked there was so much garbage in the water I swear I could have walked across it and not fallen in.

Back up in the upper city on the hills we made our way to the main attraction of Valpo, the house of famous poet Pablo Neruda.  I haven´t read much Neruda buthis house was facinating.  3 levels high with amazing views outover the Pacific.  The house was like a mini Valparaiso. With it´s nooks and different colours.  I thinkthe most interesting thing I learned about Neruda was that he only lived to 69 but had an incredibly full life.  Poet, politician, lover, cheater etc. etc.  Not all of it was perfect abut he really seemed to live his life with great passion and a man cannot be blamed for that.

Jordana and I finished off the day back at the hostel making a pasta dinner with some chilean wine.  Soon the kitchen was filled with other travelers from the hostel,it almost felt like we had invited friends over to our place.  Beers and lots of conversation about travel with people from all over the globe.  A great night and a great finish to an incredible city, in the morning we catch a bus over the Andes to Mendoza, Argentina.

Donde McDonalds?

Sunday, September 21st, 2008
Day 177 "Safe journeys my Canadian friends!" said Brian as we made our way out of the Green House in Santiago. Why was this guy always around to greet you? It was as if the hostel hired Brian ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Long Termer

Saturday, September 20th, 2008
Day 176 It seems every hostel has one and they always seem to be the same. The long-term resident. He's been here for a week or so sometimes more than a month. Makes friends with everyone or at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Landing Fees and Chinese Food

Friday, September 19th, 2008
Day 175 "$132 each to just enter the country!" Yep, welcome to Chile. Just what you want to see at 5:30am after being awake for nearly 24 hours. Canadians pay the highest of any country to enter Chile. ... [Continue reading this entry]

Season Two: The Return to South America

Thursday, September 18th, 2008
Day 174 The chicken bus is back and were onboard. After a 4 month absence Jordana and I have resumed our travels, just about where we left off. Well almost. Currently we sit in the very depressing Bogota ... [Continue reading this entry]