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Scenery, Iceballs and Stout

Tuesday, September 30th, 2008

Day 186

There is actually more to do in Bariloche than mullet watch and eat chocolate. Today we were heading back to Puerto Panuelo or Llao Llao for a boat trip on Lago Huael Nuapi.

After our dessert for breakfast we walked 3 blocks to the bus stop where we caught the #20 bus to the dock for the boat. We paid our admission price and joined the rest of the passengers waiting to board the boat. Looking around it appeared that besides us there was only one other foreign tourist. We boarded the boat, taking an indoor seat. We cruised west towards Puerto Blest, and the lake narrowed as the snow cover mountains closed in. It was an incredible ride. In spots waterfalls tumbled down the mountain sides right into the lake. Jordana and I walked outside to get a few pictures but it was freezing out there. Just over an hour after leaving we reached the end of the lake, Puerto Blest. There is no town here, just a hotel/restaurant and a road that leads to another lake where you can cross into Chile 10km away. The setting however is beautiful. Surrounded by rocky peaks and the bright green water of the glacier fed Rio Frias flowing into the lake. After a few passengers departed the boat we crossed the small bay to another dock. We had 3 hours here, where there are a few trails leading up into the woods. One followed a river that tumbled into the lake below. A side trail lead us to a hidden lake with towering mountains that seemed to rise straight out of the other side. Near here was a Alerce tree, similar to the redwoods in California it was a giant.

Jordana and I headed back towards the boat and after some confusion realized that we still had 2 hours till the boat left. There was another trail that circled the bay back to Puerto Blest, about an hour walk. We walked through the woods filled with bamboo, snow still covered parts of the ground here. “Ouch, that’s an ice ball NOT a snowball!” I shouted as Jordana nailed me in the arm. I tried to get her back but missed. Besides isn’t there a rule that says, when the snow only makes an iceball you just have to drop it? Maybe kids in my ‘hood were just more ethical.

We eventually returned to the boat and just in time. The wind had really picked up and the temperature dropped. The ride back was just as beautiful but its been a long day so we both just feeling tired. We returned to the hostel and after showering went to have a good pasta meal down the street. Since it was our last night in Bariloche we figured we’d go out for a drink. Back at the hostel we asked Derek, the American staying there is he wanted to join us. The three of us headed to a fantastic pub where they made their own beer. We tried the stout and porter and for the first time in South America I tasted great beer. It was a good end to a good day and a great stay in Bariloche.

Mullet Fever

Monday, September 29th, 2008

Day 185

Since it took us nearly 20 hours to reach Bariloche and knowing that our next destination was at least 12 hours away we figured we would spend a few days relaxing here. So today was to be a day of planning, relaxing and a lot of nothing.
We started off with our regular breakfast at the hostel. Today they had something other than media lunas. I’m not sure what they are called but even though these sweets look different they taste just like a media luna. I’m beginning to think that Argentine cuisine is just about the most simple and boring on the planet.

First off we wanted to figure out how and where to go next. We had talked about going back into Chile and taking a 4 day ferry ride south to Puerto Natales, near the end of South America. However as spectacular as the trip is said to be the price is way out of our budget. Next idea was ruta 40, a legendary road that cuts through the wilds of Patagonia right down to the end of the continent. We asked around and apparently there isn’t much, if any transportation on Ruta 40 at this time of year. South of here the snow has yet to melt. So with all that are decision was easy, a bus south to Comodoro. A boring oil town on the Patagonia coast but an important transit city for points further south. We bought are ticket and depart Wednesday night.

Next up a trip to a fabulous chocolate store, Bariloche is famous for the stuff. Mamushka, the store we entered had all kinds of chocolate. We left with white chocolate, tiramasu, brownie, cinnamon and a few others. I’m not sure of the translations. We walked down to the waterfront a found a beautiful spot on a stone wall. We gorged ourselves on chocolate while looking our at the lake and mountains.

On our way back to the hostel we stopped at a supermarket to pickup some things to make dinner. Walking back through Bariloche I thought to myself, “Wow, this all looks like a bad ’80’s movie sometimes.” Ski School, I think that’s the one I’m thinking of. The whole scene in Bariloche I mean. You have young Argentine students mostly here to party, sometimes ski or snowboard. Oh and mostly sporting mullets. Then you have the slightly older crew, maybe 30 to 40. They are well off, here for the skiing but dress hilariously. Women walking around with there puffy winter jackets and huge leather boots. The mullet doesn’t seem as popular with this generation. When you tire of looking at mountains and lakes, this scene makes for some great people watching.

Jordana whipped up some fried rice for dinner, which was a welcome change from pizza and pasta. We enjoyed a bottle of Don Arturo’s finest syrah and then watched a dvd, “The Interpreter”. It almost felt like we lived here, the only other guest around was a quiet American named Derek who also watched the movie with us. By the way its a horrible film. Tomorrow we plan on getting back outdoors, this time out of the town and do a boat trip and some more walks. Looking forward to it but I can’t lie, I’ll miss the mullets.

To the Llao Llao

Sunday, September 28th, 2008
Day 184 Woke up this morning from one of the best sleeps I have had travelling. Our hostel is just outside the centre of Bariloche and its a quiet place. Add to that the cool night time temperatures here ... [Continue reading this entry]

South to Patagonia

Friday, September 26th, 2008
Day 182 We had one more day in Mendoza, which is a pleasant city but without much to offer a tourist in the way of sights. We were on the move south to Bariloche but our bus was not to ... [Continue reading this entry]

Drinks, Drinks and more Drinks

Thursday, September 25th, 2008
Day 181 Mendoza is a lively city with wide tree lined avenues and some good restaurants. Sometimes it feels like you could be in Europe. That said the only real reason one visits Mendoza is for the wine grown ... [Continue reading this entry]

Argentina…Again

Wednesday, September 24th, 2008
Day 180 Finally the time had come to move on from Valparaiso. A place it would be very easy to get comfortable in for a few weeks or months. Maybe another time though, the pull of visiting a new ... [Continue reading this entry]

Tattered Beauty

Tuesday, September 23rd, 2008
Day 179 Valparaiso was one of those cities which grew on you.  Personally I loved it the moment I walked out the door of our hostel, Luna Sunrisa.  I turned to the right and through the thick fog I could make ... [Continue reading this entry]

Donde McDonalds?

Sunday, September 21st, 2008
Day 177 "Safe journeys my Canadian friends!" said Brian as we made our way out of the Green House in Santiago. Why was this guy always around to greet you? It was as if the hostel hired Brian ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Long Termer

Saturday, September 20th, 2008
Day 176 It seems every hostel has one and they always seem to be the same. The long-term resident. He's been here for a week or so sometimes more than a month. Makes friends with everyone or at ... [Continue reading this entry]

Landing Fees and Chinese Food

Friday, September 19th, 2008
Day 175 "$132 each to just enter the country!" Yep, welcome to Chile. Just what you want to see at 5:30am after being awake for nearly 24 hours. Canadians pay the highest of any country to enter Chile. ... [Continue reading this entry]