One of the most popular attractions in China, the famous Terra Cotta Warriors outside Xi'an attract thousands of tourists everyday. Unfortunately, that included me. Wandering the open square in front of the main buildings, I finally accepted the offer of a guide by Jane, a young girl who spoke decent English. Working our way among the much larger tour groups, Jane took me into the three main buldings that house the warriors. Accidentally discovered by a local peasant digging around in 1974, the warriors are now protected from the elements by roof and walls, encased in a museum-like setting that, while unfortunately necessary, somewhat detracts from the archaeological wonder I had expected. Nonetheless, rows after rows of warriors, archers, and horses stand guard, each uniquely built and at the ready, as if at any moment they could defend their Emperor, Qin Shihuang, to the death. Before leaving, I allowed myself to be suckered into buying a book signed by the peasant farmer who, Jane insisted, 'just happened to be there today'. That, and the souvenir hawkers that all but assaulted me on the way out before I got a little physical, kind of soured my experience. But my mood would change soon.

On the bus back to town, I saw a bunch of kids rollerskating around a fountain in a public square and had to make an unplanned stop. Taking out my camera and heading right into the center of the square, I was almost immediately surrounded by six kids, then ten, then about twenty and a couple of their mothers. We had a great time communicating as they were so interested in me, and I in them. I think I made a few new pen pals.

I think for most people that day, the highlight was seeing the fierce clay army of soldiers of centuries ago. For me, it was seeing a group of kids skate circles around me, their mothers laughing at my side.