Day 9-11 – Kithira
Day 9: This was to be one of the longest days of the trip. We were planning on taking the ferry from Neapoli to the farthest flung of the Ionian Islands, Kithira. The guy at the campground said there were three boats a day but he wasn’t sure of the times. We figured we could get there around ten and catch the first afternoon boat. We arrived in town and sat down in a café and had a frappe. At about 12 we decide it couldn’t hurt to ask the waitress if she knew when the boat leaves. She said she thought the next one left at about 1pm but we should go ask at the Coast Guard. We finished our drinks and sauntered down to the Coast Guard post to get the exact times. They said there is one boat a day at 10am. Lesson learned: local knowledge is overrated.
Having failed in our attempt to take the boat from Neapoli we decided to ride the hour or so to the town of Gythio where the ferry leaving for Crete passes Kithira. Upon arrival we discovered that there was a boat that leaving at 6pm. This would put us on Kithira at about dark which would mean driving in the dark in unknown territory. We were up for the challenge and bought our tickets. We arrived at Kithira at dark as predicted and got on some windy and windy mountain road to the southern town of Kapsali. Upon our arrival at the campground we discovered that it had not yet opened for the season yet. Distraught, we went into a local taverna to inquire about lodging. What we found was a domatia (a private residence with spare rooms for lodgers) for a little more than the price of the campground. It was a really nice room too, with a kitchenette and TV. We really struck gold. Nice end to a long day.
Day 10: Happy Birthday Luci! The morning started with rain and we spent it in a café on the waterfront of Kapsali, eating crepes and playing backgammon. As the day began to clear up we mounted our “cavallo d’aciaio” and went in search of unspoiled beaches. The search was not in vain and we spent a good part of the day beach hopping on our bike; paradise.
Upon returning to our room, the matron in formed us that there was a problem; there was no water. She said that it should be back in a couple of hours. So instead of showers we walked around the old fort in Kithira Town before going to dinner. After perusing the uninspiring waterfront menus we decided instead to go back up to Kithira Town and try our luck at a restaurant recommended for its grilled food. Immediately upon entering, it was obvious that “Zorba’s” was not geared for tourists. They had no menu and rather than having to try to explain what they had available, the waiter just brought us into the kitchen where we chose what we wanted from the grill. Luci had grilled lamb; I the pork. We had Greek salads, tzaziki, and some kind of eggplant something or other. Wine, Metaxa the whole deal; it was Luci’s birthday after all. Grande! And the whole thing cost what we would have paid for a bottle of wine in Italy. Back at the room there was still no water.
Day 11: Slept in late; still no water. We had planned to stay at least another night on Kithira before going back to the mainland but we knew it would be difficult without any water and it would be a hassle to find another place for one night. We resolved to go to the beach and enjoy our morning and if there was no water when we got back at 2, we would catch the ferry back to Gythio. We had a great morning lounging in the sun on a pebbly beach (I hate the sand) and by 2 we were back at the room. And there was no water. The woman understood that it didn’t make much sense to stay without water so we bid out thanks and farewell and loaded bike. We toured the northern part of the island fully loaded, caught the ferry and were on the mainland by nightfall, camped south of Gythio.
Tags: Greece 2005
Luke