We have now visited the beautiful world heritage town of Antigua, Guatemala, three times and have just returned for our fourth. The big national holiday in latin america is semana santa (holy week) and whole countries grind to a halt as families travel to popular holiday destinations, especially Antigua because they have the biggest processions in all Guatemala. In actual fact, these processions begin 6 weeks before and we have already seen 2 of them which is lucky because we are not rich enough to be able to stay here during the pinnacle weekend of good friday due to the crazily inflated prices.

The first procession I saw blew me away, the atmosphere created defies anyone to deny the reverence of the occasion. First of all there are lines of roman soldiers with spears, then come men dressed in purple or white robes and if you look down the cobbled street at this time you will see a cloud of incense and, emerging out of it, a large statue of Jesus carrying the cross which is swaying from side to side. As it comes closer, you hear the dirge from the band and the steady beat of the drum until the anda or float is in front of you. The anda is a 15-20 ft long solid wood float with the effigy of christ and various other adornments atop, carried upon the shoulders of 40 men in purple robes. The anda is carried for most of the day and people pay for the privelege of doing so - some even pay to do it twice. The women follow behind with a smaller version but the glory is obviously in the men's court here. At various points along the route residents and businesses spend whole nights creating colourful carpets in the street using grasses, flowers and, most impressively, carefully stencilled colourred sawdust. The procession walks over the carpet and leaves behind it a mucky pile of mixed up colours which is quickly shovelled up and dispensed of. As you have probably guessed, the theme of the event is paying penance to god with acts of hardship and devotion.

The children's parade is today and I have just come from watching it go past. There are hoards of children in their appropriate costumes all walking along eating or drinking or chatting. I saw 2 girls and a boy discussing carrying the anda and to prove she had already done her bit one girl pulled down the sleeve of her top with pride to show her reddened shoulder. When the anda itself went past the boys seemed to be making quite a fast pace but with a stuttered swing. One boy had a pair of sunglasses on and was coolly staring at the crowd as he went past. Others seemed to be taking it all more seriously. The girls' anda was considerably far behind - they obviously didn't feel like they had a point to prove by racing - and I watched the carriers closely as they went past noticing that one girl was walking mostly with her eyes shut in a reverent way. It pleased me to think that she was obviously getting (or trying to get) into the experience in a spiritual way and it made me wonder just how many of these kids knew why or what this was all about.

At the bus station when we arrived today, the "official" (he has a laminated card) information man asked if we wanted information and then promptly told us that all the hostels were full and any that weren't were very very expensive. Regardless, we found that the hostel we normally stay in has rooms, but like all the other hostels and restaurants in town, the price will go up tomorrow and for the next three days. today we are paying 37Q for a double room. Tomorrow, the same room will cost 140Q. I'm pleased that the nice family who run posada Ruix will be getting some well needed money (the family of four all live in one single room) but I can't help but wonder; Exactly how much money does one need to pay to share in the glory of christ?