Jon and I have been very lucky over the last 15 months not to have a single thing stolen. Until now. Unfortunately, the bag which was stolen as we stepped off the bus in La Paz, Bolivia was ´the valuables bag´with EVERYTHING in it including 4 months of photos from Argentina, Chile and Bolivia. So we cried - and you won't get any images from that time on this blog.

However...

Without our loss we would not have had such a great time with our new friends.

The night of the robbery, due to alot of stress (and a perpetual need) we were in search of a beer but since it was midnight there was nothing open. There was a man in the reception of our hotel who kindly escorted us to the dodgy area of town (where the drunks drink 100% proof alcohol) to buy a few cans and we all chatted 'til late.

We became friends with René and gradually realised that not only was he in an excellent traditionally influenced band who are well known in south america, but they (Aldana) were regularly on tv and toured in europe every year. To top it all we were invited to their friends wedding at which Aldana were playing and therefore spent a cultural day of dancing, congratulating and boozing.

Wanna hear a sample of Aldana's music?

The wedding
Everyone was late as is the traditional custom of bolivia. The groom was nervously jittering about at the door of the church waiting for the bride...who was late. Once they had entered the church René led us in to sit in the fourth row for a good view at which we were a little nervous, already feeling hopelessly tall, white and out of place. The ceremony was very much like any other catholic ceremony you may have been to but the congregation doesn't get to sing.

Once they were married we followed the couple back down the aisle. At the door, the waiting mariachi band struck up and the couple began to dance - on the steps of the church. This went on for a while and then they and the relatives lined up to be congratulated amongst mountains of confetti and petals. The Aymará women dressed in the traditional bowler hat and wide pleated skirts and shawl would remove their bowler hat to recieve a large handful of confetti before replacing it again.

The reception was in a large hall with beautifully decorated tables each with a bottle of whiskey, a bottle of singani and some various gaseosas (fizzy drinks). The singani is mixied with 7UP to create a traditional drink called chuflay which is similar to a very strong gin and tonic. But more of that later...

René and Fabio Aldana (yes, they're twins)

Before long, (well actually quite a while later due to the bride and groom, the sound crew and most of the guests being late) Aldana started their first set. Everyone got up to dance and the scene was set for the rest of the day. It is customary to dance with a partner and everyone wanted to dance with the gringos, especially the drunkards... Each different rhythm requires a different dance and therefore we had to concentrate to keep up. Jon was very popular with the ladies, one in particular who´s brother was quite keen on getting her a marriage proposal...

Jon's new novia

The aforementioned alcohol was soon flowing copiously and there were many drunks (and not so drunk) people grinning at us and flinging us round in crazy dances - and we happily joined in. Aunt Lucy - an Aymará lady who jon would twirl around so that her skirts flew out impressively - began coming round with a bottle of beer and a glass. She would put a small (if you're lucky) amount into the glass and give it to you to down in one. The problem is that the beer always froths up so that it is 8 times the size of the beer and you have to make your way through this to get at the beer. Any froth left over is thrown onto the floor which makes dancing more and more perilous as the evening progresses.

The grooms sings a song for his bride

In the bathroom, a man was insisting that Jon lend him his comb. Jon tried to explain that he didn't have a need for one, but since it is customary for every man to carry one the man continued to insist as though he just thought that Jon was being tight!

Since marriage is very important to bolivians, the throwing of the bouqet is a much bigger affair and with more chances of catching it. Firstly, the groom removes the brides garter with his teeth - yes, in the middle of the room - and then the bride gets on stage armed with garter and bouqet. The "DJ" gets the crowd of solteras (single women) excited for a while and then the bride throws the garter and the bouqet in turn. While I stood waiting in the crowd of women, a scarily excited female jumped about next to me screaming unintelligible spanish in my ear. I think she caught the bouqet but i´m sure there was some foul play at work. There is also a chance for the men to have luck in marriage. The solteros (yes, single men) stand in front of the stage and receive something from the groom to catch. I'm not sure what it was because Jon didn't catch it (and i'm sure he didn't really try...)

We're with the band!

Finally we sat at our table with the now-drunken band and others while Aunt Lucy tried to force me to down more beer and then insist that we come and see her at her home the following day at 7am. René had to save us because she wouldn't take no for an answer and Jon and I knew that we would be spending the following day in the recovery position and wouldn't be able to make any house calls. Then the lights were turned out and we took the hint and left.

The moral of this story is that when things go wrong, there is always a bright side (and it usually involves booze...)