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Archive for July, 2008

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Down the Spine of Sumatra: Aceh and the Gayo Highlands

Thursday, July 31st, 2008

Despite it’s reputation as being well and truly out in the wilds of Sumatra, Banda Aceh was a modern town, full of western conveniences brought by, or at least in order to cater to, foreign NGO workers in the aftermath of the 2004 Tsunami.  In leaving the city behind we were heading down a far more adventurous road. 

There were, in fact three roads out of Banda Aceh.  We’d taken the eastern costal road from Medan on the way there.  Sections of the western coastal road still hadn’t been repaired following the tsunami.  The third option was the one took on our journey south: the mountain road right down the centre of Sumatra, through the region known as the Gayo Highlands.

 Kumara chips

Deep fried crispy vegetables were a specialty of Aceh, including these beautiful (and tasty) kumara (sweet potato) chips

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Relaxing the Pulau Weh

Sunday, July 27th, 2008

 While getting IN to Indonesia was no problem, onward travel presented some minor difficulties.
First came negotiations with the bemo (microbus) driver about our fare.  Then came finding an ATM for him to stop at so we could pick up some more Indonesian Rupiah.  Then came debating whether he’d really agreed to take us all the way to the northern bus terminal.  Then came him putting us on another minibus headed there and paying our fare for us.  So while it was a bit of a hassle, it wasn’t really all that bad.

We purchased our tickets for a night bus headed up the trans-Sumatran highway, leaving just enough time for dinner before journeying north to Banda Aceh.

Pulau Weh in the morning

Pulau Weh

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Three Countries, Just Over 24 Hours

Saturday, July 19th, 2008
Wow. Didn't think I'd be doing this again so soon. In this instance the countries involved are Thailand, Malaysia and Indonesia, and we didn't even use air travel! We had some minor problems purchasing our train tickets for the Bangkok-Malaysia journey ... [Continue reading this entry]

Munching our way through Bangkok

Saturday, July 19th, 2008
Upon returning to Bangkok we set about achieving two important goals: 1. Have as pleasant a rest as possible in between two big spells of travel (back from Cambodia, on to Malaysia.) 2. Eat as much yummy Thai food as possible during ... [Continue reading this entry]

The Churning of the Ocean of Sweetened Condensed Milk (Siem Reap & Angkor)

Saturday, July 12th, 2008
The Angkor ruins are a HUGE series of buildings (mostly Hindu/Buddhist temples)constructed between the 9th and 15th centuries AD.  They were built by the Khmers when they were at the height of their power and their empire encompassed most of ... [Continue reading this entry]

Old Friends, New Buildings: Phnom Penh

Wednesday, July 9th, 2008
Following our surprisingly simple journey into the country, and a very pleasant night in Battambang, we woke up nice and early to catch a bus to Phnom Penh, Cambodia's capital. When I'd visited Cambodia about 3.5 years before the roads in ... [Continue reading this entry]

Three Countries, 24 Hours

Friday, July 4th, 2008
A quick entry just to get us up to date: We left Chittagong at 14:35, with the only hitch being a minor disagreement with our autorickshaw driver about exactly where he'd agreed to take us and for how much. [Continue reading this entry]