Upon arriving in Belfast last night, I wasn't sure how i'd feel about this city. It's Ireland's second biggest, but Northern Ireland's largest. Belfast (Gaelic name meaing "Open Mouth" due to it's proximity at the mouth of the river Largan) and the scars of "The Troubles" here are still very apparent as you walk down the streets, many of which have street curbs painted in red, white and blue to symbolize attachment to the UK. Ulster's capitol city, Belfast, began to thrive mainly since the 19th century and the city's architecture reflects Georgian and Victorian sentiments, along with bland, semi-high rise buildings, built in recent times. Belfast is the place where the shipbuilding industry thrived for centuries, where two huge cranes, nicknamed Samson and Goliath stood, and where the Titanic was built and launched on its ill-fated maiden voyage in 1912. It's where the air conditioner and major aircraft were first introduced in Europe and where, for years, the lace and linen industry reigned. It's economy is thriving now, but even as recently as autumn 1998, when the Peace Accord was signed here (punctuated by a handshake between Bill Clinton and Sinn Fein leader Gerry Adams, outside of the Ruby Emerald Diner at 105 Falls Rd.), the calm air feels a bit tenous in certain neighborhoods. To get a good orientation, i hopped on to the top of a double decker bus for a one hour city tour. The driver provided us non-stop banter, in an almost Scottish sounding accent, which i had to strain to understand. He seemed to enjoy his humor though, laughing at his own bad jokes, which he must tell at least six times a day to tourists. On the tour, we passed by the extravagant, neo-classical City Hall with its ornate Renaissance style, controlled for Unionists until 2002, when it elected it's first Sinn Fein lord Mayor. I saw the Europa Hotel, which housed the media covering most of the troubles, and the Grand Opera House next door, which suffered heavy damage from the IRA bombing it in 1991 and 1993, due to it's proximity to the Europa. Then, on to see West Belfast, where the "Peace Line", a 6 meter high steel, concrete and chainlink wall separates the Shankill District (Loyalist/Protestant) from the Falls Road district (Republican/Catholic). Along this area is the newly constructed "Solidarity Wall", a series of painted murals that express Republican sympathies with the South of Ireland, the Palestinians, Kurds, and other political hotspots. I saw the red brick headquarters of Sinn Fein, where a famous mural of a smiling Bobby Sands appears, elected as MP for W. Belfast, just before he died while on a hunger strike in 1981. His quote appears below him, "Our revenge will be the laughter of our children." After the tour, I walked over to the famous Crown Liquor Saloon, built in 1885 and now a historical trust monument that features ornate wooden "snugs" equipped with gun metal plates from the Crimean War for striking matches. Belfast doesn't have the same charms as Dublin does, but it's history is rich, and today they brag that (apart from Toyko) it's the safest Capital City in the world for tourists. I hope that's true, though while walking around Sandy Row and Linfield Gardens, with the steel gates and barbed wire still in place, i tightened my bag around me and rarely made eye contact. Once I get back to Dublin, I'll post the many photos i took of the stark but colorful murals, of the "red hand of Ulster", the "UFF-Ulster Freedom Fighters" and "No Surrender". Along with the smoky pubs and restaurants and ever-present Union Jacks, this part of Ireland has way more in common with neighboring England than it does with Galway or Dublin. The area i'm staying in is known as "University/Botanic" is safe, friendly and full of life. The city centre just a few miles away,closes down right after working hours, as people scatter back to the suburbs still as they did just a few years ago to avoid surprize bombing attacks there. Today was brisk but sunny, though a major wind and rain storm is on the way from England. Glad i got to walk around and enjoy the day.