7:30 and nothing is going on! I head up the street, no one around, people are still working in shops and the usual horde of mopeds. I walk around for half an hour and I still haven't seen another farang! But then with whistles trilling and coloured lights-a-twinkling over a dozen bicycle rickshaws each with a farang in the back, obviously on a tour. I go for a wander, slightly encouraged, and every bar I pass not a word in roman characters and not a farang in sight. I carry on until I get to a sign 'Lady Jane Bar' with a union flag behind it. There are a few elderly farangs outside, but I headed in to order a beer and some food. Thank god I stayed inside!

There was a big american outside, obviously Texan, obviously Republican, obviously pro Iraq war, and extolling the virtues of Haliburton oil, stating to all in earshot how Haliburton are doing something for Iraq and the worlds good and no other company could have done it. I left before I started throwing things.

I headed back a different way, looking for more bars, but no. One of the streets was rather dimly lit, even though it had decent sized shops at either end. It had a lot of girls though. One of them approached me and said something like 'Bam Bong?' (It's not in the phrase book!) I declined and carried on walking back to the Hotel.

I didn't fancy a hectic day the day after and decided I'd do Sukhotai another time, spend the day here and head down to Bangkok on the overnight train.