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the untold story of italy

Monday, August 24th, 2009

Bacoli – virtually Naples, Italy

Have you ever watched those travel documentaries or family-goes-to-find-their-dream-property-in-Italy programmes or read books of the same ilk? We’d read the books, but have heard the televised version exists too. However, I’m beginning to wonder if all the literature we happened upon was actually romantic fiction disguised as travel stories. Nowhere did we ever see a comparison of Italy and Cambodia. Isn’t Italy La Dolce Vita and Carpe Diem?
Yes, it may be those things. And it is also straight lines of olive trees marching up a rocky mountain. It is grapevines and deep blue sea beaches. It is pasta and pesto and wonderful gelato. But it is more than these things.
Today it reminded us of Cambodia.
We ended up taking photos to do a comparison. If only we had got snaps of the big fishing nets hanging across the river – Just The Same. If only we had thought early enough to take one of the chickens we saw scratching round in a yard. We got these ones though….can you tell which is Cambodia and which is Italy?

In both countries mansion-like buildings are surrounded by high concrete walls punctuated with spikey-pronged solid metal gates.

In both countries it’s easy to find houses that are disintegrating.

Both countries sell an abundance of cheap fruit – actually even more in Cambodia, but the peaches here are kissed by God Himself. And only 50 cents a kilo.

Both countries suffer under intense heat.

Neither country has a road system to be proud of. Admittedly, Cambodia’s is far worse, but Italy’s is not exactly a smooth ride if you’re off the autostrade. And in both countries dirt tracks protrude from the main sealed roads – yes, even in Italy. I can’t decide which country possesses the worst drivers. We witnessed more accidents in Cambodia (almost one every day), but they were mostly of the *inconsequential* motorbike-dings-motorbike variety. Directly in front of us, sliding to a stop slightly behind us, on the road to Rome we saw three cars smash into each other, totally crumpling the long bonnet of the middle one as it made that distinctive sound not unlike a thousand coke cans being crushed by a giant hand. A gut-wrenching sound that made Rob check his wing mirror to see what was happening (he was just in front) and me to check my wing mirror to see if we had room to escape if any of the cars would swing towards us after impact. The further south we have ventured, the worse the driving has become. Today we realised these guys do not drive with fierce aggression, they drive with complete abandon. I’m not sure you would believe the tales we could tell of the total idiot manouvres we almost got tangled up in today. Too often my heart was racing and our vans swerving. Maybe Italy takes the prize for maddest drivers!

It feels uncharitable to make such comparisons, especially when books-n-blogs and other people’s reality shows are about romancing the good life, but this is a record of our experience and so we tell our tale….we saw some similarities.

fat

Thursday, July 16th, 2009

by a ranting member of the lunatic fringe
Lindisfarne, England

According to newly-released statistics, New Zealand is almost leading the world in obesity statistics (apparently currently coming in third). I wonder if we would have noticed England’s obesity if we had flown here directly from home. But we didn’t and the problem here struck us strongly.
I’m not going to get scientific about it….just a little anecdotal…..in terms of the places *we* have been, we’d say Laos is the most non-obese nation. We did not see one overweight person in our month there. Not one. We expected Cambodia to be the same, but we saw an occasional chubby young person there – we were staying just up the road from a private school and quite a few of the children (obviously from wealthy families or they would not have been attending the school) were starting to show the signs of adopting a Western diet. Now I do not know for certain that they eat lots of Western food, but we did see them with bottles of Coke and chocolate bars. None of the people living on the rubbish dump, on the other hand, were overweight. None of the people we met in Thailand or Vietnam, who lived their traditional subsistence lives were fat. None of the rural Chinese were tubby. No-one in Mongolia was carrying extra kilos (and all they eat is mutton and full-cream dairy with loads of fat piled on – so maybe the NZ food nazis should sit up and take notice of the fact that low-fat diets are not the answer – our bodies need fat and while the beauracracy tries to prevent us from consuming it, they are not going to solve the obesity epidemic.)
It’s not even a Western issue (I don’t think)…..in Holland and Germany there were precious few tubbies – yes, there were a lot of men carrying beer pots on their skinny legs, but not general obesity. In those countries you have everyone riding bicycles everywhere – even old dottery grannies (no offence intended – I’m describing the ladies we saw on bikes – so dottery that when they got off their bikes, they sometimes nearly toppled over – but they were still out there cycling well into their nineties!) And there was next to no low-fat food. Just plenty of full cream milk and quark and yoghurt and butter.
Then you get to England and everything is low fat. And a good portion of the population is overweight. My theory stands up to the scrutiny of circumstantial evidence! If our health board is going to ban anything, let them ban sugar. Did you know that in the fourteenth century we used a teaspoon a year of this “luxury spice”. Now Britain’s annual consumption is 35kg per person. Hello! Could we make a link between that and obesity, diabetes and poor teeth, do you think? And how different is New Zealand? (Answer:not very)

Now, if you’ll give me just a moment, I’ll hop down off my soapbox (and to think I thought they had all been packed away in the attic for a year!)….

There, back on solid ground.

Are you still with me? How about something less controversial – a nice wee morning game of hide-n-seek in Warkworth Castle (before the rain came….again). Or if you prefer, the game where you have to run under the drawbridge (which doesn’t draw any more) and try to avoid the missiles being sent from above….that one was fun!

The day ended in pouring rain, we’re perched at the edge of the sea (in fact, according to the GPS we are IN the sea!) in a little carpark just off the causeway that goes across to Holy Island. The island is only accessible at certain times of the day, dependent on tides, as the causeway totally floods at high tide (a most impressive sight to see – and exciting to watch people to-ing and fro-ing trying to make up their minds whether to take the risk once the water has come up a bit! The pictures of almost submerged cars on the tide timetable signposts did nothing to deter some!) We zipped across this afternoon to visit Lindisfarne Castle and Priory, but as the rain took our arrival as its debut time, and we saw the number of motorhomes in the carpark, we came straight back and nabbed spots in aforementioned carpark for the night (no overnighting allowed on the island), not that we needed to hurry as none of the flash motorhomes came into our freebie spot!

Time on the road: need to check Jboy13’s record!
Distance covered: 68km

weather, shoe repairs and a haircut

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009
by those concerned (Mama, Jgirl14 and Dadda) Guilin, China COLD. I don't know how we walked down the street yesterday in summer clothes. We went out this morning morning in long-sleeved shirts, long pants, polarfleece jackets AND raincoats - and we were ... [Continue reading this entry]

South East Asia Summary

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009
TRANSPORT DETAILS Hours spent on long-haul trips: 212 Longest bus trip: 11 hours (with two twenty second stops and one 15 minute one) Longest boat trip: 2 days down the Mekong Longest train trip: 43 hours (Saigon to Hanoi) Favourite transport: elephant Types of transport:

refugees

Monday, February 2nd, 2009
by Rachael Hanoi, Vietnam

 

We had been expecting to hear a bit more English in Vietnam. Not sure what gave us that idea, but we had it all the same. And it was wrong. In our ... [Continue reading this entry]

How will we remember Cambodia?

Thursday, January 22nd, 2009
The unedited answer elicited from the family over dinner a few nights back Phnom Penh, Cambodia to Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam

very dirty rip you off-y public urinal beggars busy barking dogs honking horns heavy-handed on horns! smelly drains affectionate people tuktuks baskets on heads squat a lot tropical fruit feast angkor amazing itinerant ... [Continue reading this entry]

making a difference

Wednesday, January 21st, 2009
by the parents, who enjoyed watching their children play with some other kids this afternoon Phnom Penh, Cambodia

 

91 children (two thirds of them boys) aged from 3-18 live together with five adults caring for ... [Continue reading this entry]

How To Be Idle

Tuesday, January 20th, 2009
book review and related contemplations by Rachael Phnom Penh, Cambodia I'm having a read-fest; three books in four days. YAY for guesthouses with libraries and YAY for staying in one place long enough to finish a complete tome. Some of Tom Hodgkinson's ... [Continue reading this entry]

she might only be two…

Monday, January 19th, 2009
by Mama Phnom Penh, Cambodia ...but the opportunity to travel is not being "wasted" on her. One thing that has surprised us about our youngest is her recognition of details. After even only one time visiting a place, she will tell us ... [Continue reading this entry]

disappointed

Sunday, January 18th, 2009
by Rob Phnom Penh, Cambodia Actually, we *had* planned on going to an orpahange today, after yesterday's chance encounter with a tuk-tuk driver, who is also a volunteer at a local orphanage. He was not at all pushy, suggesting we might like ... [Continue reading this entry]