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bike, bus and braying donkey

Tuesday, October 6th, 2009

Biser, Bulgaria (and a trip to Haskovo for Rob and Kboy12)
by Rach….and Rob writes, too

What do you do when two of the boys take a van for the day and you really don’t know how long they are going to be at the chipped windscreen hospital?

You grab your knitting and take seat by the front gate.

You look up your street (we really are at the very edge of the village).

And you photograph whatever comes past.

It takes a long time to get this many photos and you concede you cannot knit forever, so you take a wander a little further up the street and photograph the tobacco that’s drying – a Bulgarian specialty (along with silk and yoghurt and rose oil).

You knit some more, agree that a ten year old daughter can proceed with her written proposal for arranging a party for the little kids (games like throw the ball in a bowl and a treasure hunt to complement delicacies like sliced quince and raisins), and take some more pics.

Again, the novelty wears off so you photograph the builders across the street reroofing an old house and you try to capture the distant view too, but both with too limited success to post on the blog. The farm gate is clear, though, and a  house that looks like it’s about to fall over (however, it is said that those mud bricks give more in an earthquake and so are safer than more durable-looking stone).

Eventually a motorhome appears, but it’s not ours and as the site manager is with Rob we retreat to the campground to welcome the new arrivals. Almost immediately someone shouts out that the one we were waiting for is coming down the street so I excuse myself and run out to the street, snapping as I run.

Check out the tyre on that van….and the smooth windscreen…..
Rob will tell ya all about it!

The great thing about Bulgaria is that you can get just about anything done, and inexpensively, as long as you have the time! So, the seemingly simple task of getting a stone chip repaired and a tyre replaced on the van ends up being a whole day affair; a very pleasant day, mind you, with lots of time to chat, drink coffee and watch the world go by. And if we had not had the help of our campsite manager, Matt, we could have drunk coffee all day long and achieved nothing else. Fortunately Matt offers to accompany me and Kboy12 on the 35 km drive to the nearest city, where he knows the manager of a car dealership, who in turn has a friend, who can repair windscreen chips. Good to have a navigator, even better to have an interpreter! 
Once we arrive at the dealers, it transpires that we have an hour wait until the manager is out of a meeting, and then a further half hour is needed to catch up over coffee (no rushing off straight into business), then yet another hour to wait until Mr-Stone-Chip-Repair-Man is able to look at the windscreen (and another obligatory coffee!), and finally an hour to wait for the repair to be done.
Lots of time to stand around talking and laughing.
One job down (done and dusted for a meagre 15 Lev ~ about $15 NZ), one to go. We’re on the lookout for a cheap second-hand tyre to get us safely back to Berlin.
There’s a tyre shop in Harmanli, but it didn’t have the right size, necessitating a drive round town in search of another. The second place we enquire at doesn’t have one either, but the owner manages to track one down. An hour later this is fitted and balanced and on the van; more time to discuss previously owned cars and teenage driving antics (no coffee shop this time!) – job done for a very reasonable 50 Lev.
Two jobs done, two coffees consumed, lots of stories exchanged, one day gone.

bedlam, bones and a blowout

Friday, October 2nd, 2009

Biser, Bulgaria

What a crazy afternoon!

At midday we had an appointment with the editor/photographer/storywriter from the local rag (who we met yesterday whilst nibbling at pizzas in Harmanli), and at the same time the camp owner (who lives in a neighbouring village) had arranged to take us for an outing. Already understanding a lot about Bulgarian timing, we had no qualms about sitting down to lunch a little after twelve.
At a quarter to two we were in the gazebo, Mr Camp Owner had just arrived and we decided to give the photographer another quarter of an hour. Then we’d be off to the castle and burial mound at Mezek and the Silent Stones.
Farmer Ivan the Apple Man drove by and popped in.
Farmer Ivan’s son, the policeman, who was here the other night, also dropped in.
Conversation outlining our plans ensued, we gave the farmer some applesauce we’d made with his apples and he made us promise to return to the orchard at six tonight to pick more apples to make more sauce.
Eventually we decided to head for the hills. We got as far as the end of the road when a cell phone rang. The photographer was on his way. Right now.
About turn and back to the camp with a detour/guided tour of the rest of Biser.
Mr Photographer arrives with Mr Farmer, who thinks we should do the photo shoot at his orchard. So we all pile back into the jeep and head for the orchard, expecting to continue with our own plans once the pictures are taken. Of course, we have to pick more apples and pose and eat and try to refuse another boxful to take home. 

 

When it’s over we realise we are not about to hit the road. We need to give an interview. Back at camp. So back to camp we toddle! We chat and by the time the interview is done it is clear there will not be time for the castle or burial mounds. For the third time we leave the camp and this time head straight for the hills. The late afternoon light is beautiful. And it is nice to be sitting in a Landrover jeep with someone else doing the driving. Very nice, in fact.
Mr British Camp Owner / Tour Guide / Driver Extraordinaire expertly avoids fallen firewood and broken roof tiles scattered across the road, all the while pointing out sites of interest and things that were there two years ago but are now gone (like massive Russian gun turrets that disappeared to Germany overnight – how you’d smuggle one of them over the border, I’m not too sure!)
We wind our way up the hill and turn off onto a logging track. We can see why we were told not to bother trying to bring the vans up here. We stop when the vehicle can go no further and all clamber out. There is still a somewhat steep climb to negotiate before we find the two things we have come to see.
This is the site of an ancient Thracian settlement, some of which has recently been unearthed. It is nothing like the formal properly excavated famous sites we have been to. While there are some lines laid out, and one area covered in heavy duty plastic (presumably until the archaeology students return next summer), there is plenty of half-unearthed rubble begging to be scrounged around in. And so that’s just what the kids did. Imagine their delight at finding bones, real bones. And totally recognisable pieces of amphora. They didn’t manage to put a whole pot together, but they did try piecing together broken bricks, and they made intelligent guesses about what seemed to be a water channel. Sites like this litter the Bulgarian countryside.

 

Our second must-see was up in the rocks that the settlement is squeezed between. High high up (like the settlement itself), are funerary niches carved out of the rock. It is thought ashes of the deceased were placed in these.

 

Of more interest to the younger boys was the fact we had been told that when you made a racket there, it does not echo. Extensive experimenting proved this to be true!
Upon returning to the jeep, it was noticed that one tyre was in desperate need of air. Fortunately our guide (having had five flat tyres in the last month, the most recent one being this morning) was well-prepared and pulled out a pump (the spare tyre being flat – see beginning of sentence for explanation). While the air puffed, he marvelled at how eight kids could sit still and quietly for ten minutes. Ten minutes is nothing when you’ve sat on a train for four days or a bus for 26 hours, but it did remind me to be thankful that our kids travel well.
Trying to find the balance between avoiding undue strain on the wheel and going as fast as possible to get to the main road, he flew down the mountainside, gleeful giggles coming from the back as smaller children bounced right out of their seats. (Note for people who worry about us taking unnecessary risks: the driver was an ex-landrover-offroad-trainer so we were in the best of hands!)
With a sigh of relief we got clear of the dirt track and made it to the road. We even made it down the mountain. But when we hit the flat, the tyre blew.

 

Mr Driver’s experience was evident as he brought the jeep to a sudden, but careful halt. For the children, this all just spelt even more adventure. And they raced off to pick almonds and walnuts and watch a donkey being led home and explore the beehives and gardens while we waited for the driver’s son to come and pick us up. We figured we have all squeezed in to one tuktuk before, so there would be plenty of room for a dozen people in his stationwagon! A crazy way to end a crazy afternoon.
The sun was setting when we got back – we’ll have to get the apples another day.

bulgaria begs…..those unasked questions

Wednesday, September 30th, 2009
Biser, Bulgaria We have heard murmurings of questions people want to ask, but can’t bring themselves to. So we thought we’d just tell you. If we miss anything, do feel free to ask us outright – we are very hard ... [Continue reading this entry]

Bulgaria Bound

Saturday, September 26th, 2009
Biser, Bulgaria When we set out, we had NO intention of going to Bulgaria, not even as a destination to zip through to get somewhere we might want to go (like poor ol’ France, which turned out to be so ... [Continue reading this entry]

tolls, tunnels and tzatziki

Tuesday, September 15th, 2009
Corinth, Greece Well you couldn’t come to Greece and not buy tzatziki, could you? So we did. We also did tunnels – six of them in a row through one stretch of hillside (and then back again a few days later), ... [Continue reading this entry]

the untold story of italy

Monday, August 24th, 2009
Bacoli – virtually Naples, Italy Have you ever watched those travel documentaries or family-goes-to-find-their-dream-property-in-Italy programmes or read books of the same ilk? We’d read the books, but have heard the televised version exists too. However, I’m beginning to wonder if ... [Continue reading this entry]

all roads lead to Rome

Friday, August 21st, 2009
Rome, Italy yea, even the bumpy, patched, pitted, potholed ones. At least that’s the one we came in to the great city on. Not that we have made it right in to town. We’re basking in the shade of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

surprise drive

Sunday, August 2nd, 2009
by the back van driver Cordes sur Ceil, France We’ve taken you on strolls around villages, boat rides down rivers, treks across hills, trains across continents; we’ve taken you vicariously with us on tuktuks, tandems and even elephants. Today, would you ... [Continue reading this entry]

from wet-n-windy to windermere

Saturday, July 18th, 2009
by Rach somewhere in The Lake District, England “No need to go any further, chaps, let’s build ourselves a wall right here,” declared Hadrian one wet and windy day. No history book will tell you this, but I reckon he had ... [Continue reading this entry]

sleeping gypsies

Friday, July 17th, 2009
by Rach, who thought she might be concerned about sleeping in remote places, but who has felt totally safe so far at the end of the causeway opposite Holy Island, England

We met a few Poms in Holland. They all ... [Continue reading this entry]