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coconut afternoon

Friday, December 12th, 2008

By Rach
Luang Prabang, Laos

Papa and Mama (the grandparents of the family, parents to our guesthouse owner) in the next guesthouse have a large garden up the Mekong. On Sunday one of the sons brought back from said garden a dozen sacks of fresh coconuts to store beside the house until they are needed. Of course, some were required instantly and were opened up….what a process!
With a long knife, the ends are chopped and then the outer skin is hacked off in sections.

 

The husk is torn away and a hole pierced in one end to allow the coconut water to pour out. Four careful slashes around the hard shell and it breaks in half.

 

There’s a nifty wee serrated-bladed gadget for removing flesh and grating it, all in one looks-easy-until-you-try-it-movement. Once this is done, the milk is squeezed out by hand – extra water is poured on, mixed through and then squeezed some more, having turned white. The flesh was then discarded. Why? I don’t know. They use everything here (including pig’s brains and stomachs and livers and trotters), so why throw away perfectly good white coconut flesh?? There’s bound to be a reason.

 

The milk was then boiled up with sugar, before a white root vegetable was added in chunks, and eventually sago as well.We had been told they would add bananas – if they had, instead of that unidentifiable potatoe-ish vege, it would have been a delicious dessert. Not that it was bad – I just prefer veges with my main course!

 

While the pudding cooked, our children scraped out coconut shells, all sorts of plans dancing before their eyes. The other kids looked on and then turned their shells into stilts, the tin can variety. Remember them?

Two days later:

 

 

same river, second bridge

Friday, December 12th, 2008

by Rach
Luang Prabang, Laos

Remember we took a morning ramble the other day? Well, we did it again today, our last full day in this French/Asian-flavoured UNESCO World Heritage town. Actually, truth be known, we go for a wander somewhere every day. It’s just that today we’ll invite you along too. We’ll be the only falang – not another foreigner in sight. If you’re under five years of age, you’ll be given oranges along the way. And the other *orange* you’ll see will be monks’ robes. Hanging up to dry across bamboo poles, and walking along the road, over the bridge, passing you on a dirt track, sitting on steps and in buildings, walking quickly (but not running, no monks do not run and neither do they jump) across a courtyard……Put your shoes on, we’re going to head up the main street of Luang Prabang, past a few temples and monasteries, a school and a plethora of guest houses….at the very end of the peninsula (formed where the Nam Khan and Mekong Rivers meet) is an almost-obscured-from-view dirt track……come on down with us (don’t worry about snakes, I can tell you we won’t be seeing any today, despite the children’s intense desire to come face-to-face with a real live one in the wild)….


Come on, you can do it; it’s not as rickety as it looks, but it does bounce!

We can hear a cheering crowd so we’re going to take the fork in the path that heads towards the sound, OK?

It takes us up a steep hill, but check out those vegetables to admire on the way….and the noise is definitely getting closer!

Ah there it is……

A hand-written sign at the start of the track said there’s a weaving village over here, so let’s go find it….

Now if you turn around, you’ll see another wat compound – yes they’re everywhere.
Let’s go take a closer look at this one…

look again, before we go see the drum….mind those teeth!

Have you had enough? We’re getting peckish, so we’re going to head back for our basket of sticky rice we cooked this morning (we ate half of it for breakfast), and we’re going to pick up some BBQ-ed pork on the way to roll up inside the rice (almost like a sausage roll or hot dog!). Some of us will walk along the river road, and some of the kids are going to zip through the market, probably just for the adventure of going somewhere without adults – who will you come with?

monk-y business

Friday, December 12th, 2008
By someone, who didn't feel too devout when the alarm sounded Luang Prabang, Laos We hadn't expected such a comical moment in a serious religious ceremony. He was the smallest one, hurrying at the back of the line, trying to catch up; ... [Continue reading this entry]

culture quiz: laos

Thursday, December 11th, 2008
by Rachael Luang Prabang, Laos Part One YES or NO? In Laos, is it rude to:
  1. stare at someone when they eat?
  2. be noisy?
  3. read someone's journal over their shoulder?
  4. hug an adult?
  5. hug a child?
  6. touch a monk?
  7. wear shoes inside?
  8. hoick on the pavement?
  9. stand above a monk?
  10. take drugs?
ANSWERS
  1. It ... [Continue reading this entry]

just because

Thursday, December 11th, 2008
by an understandably grateful mother Luang Prabang, Laos 

(and to show she *DOES* smile sometimes!!!!! but it's true, she's a serious wee poppet, this one, yet with a sparkle in her eyes even ... [Continue reading this entry]

the 12 days of Christmas

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008
inspired by Rob... Luang Prabang, Laos Yep, we've been writing more Christmas songs! You've got to promise to SING this one out loud - or we won't publish it, OK! On the twelfth day of market-mas My true love sent to me.... 12 sticky rice ... [Continue reading this entry]

lao kitchen

Wednesday, December 10th, 2008
By Rachael Luang Prabang, Laos Cooking is a very simple affair here. Early every morning a huge batch of sticky rice is cooked up and put in a bamboo container, where it stays until it is needed. On their way out ... [Continue reading this entry]

morning ramble

Tuesday, December 9th, 2008
By Rach (coz Rob was home sick - he's better now - actually, only Rach and Jboy12 have managed to avoid a virus; everyone else has been stricken for a couple of days each) Luang Prabang, Laos up the road, round ... [Continue reading this entry]

not in a hurry…

Monday, December 8th, 2008
Mostly written by Rob Luang Prabang, Laos There is nothing like sitting in the middle of a "strange" culture to help you reflect on your own culture...to muse on the similarities and differences. What we value in our own culture is ... [Continue reading this entry]

weekends

Sunday, December 7th, 2008
By Da Mama Luang Prabang, Laos Weekends at home are a time for the children to race up and down the right-of-way with all the neighbourhood children, who don't need to go to school. Weekends in Laos, are no different, apart from ... [Continue reading this entry]