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weather, shoe repairs and a haircut

Wednesday, February 18th, 2009

by those concerned (Mama, Jgirl14 and Dadda)
Guilin, China

COLD.
I don’t know how we walked down the street yesterday in summer clothes. We went out this morning morning in long-sleeved shirts, long pants, polarfleece jackets AND raincoats – and we were still cold. Wet too. Yes, it’s raining. Our first morning rain in four and half months of travelling. We had wondrous tropical downpours many afternoons in Malaysia and Bangkok, but they only lasted an hour. Then in the next three plus months we had only one evening shower in Chiang Mai and a few overnight rains in Cambodia – nothing that actually wet us.
For a family from a city where spring rains follow a wet winter and it rains half the summer in preparation for the autumn rains, to go for quarter of a year with no grey drizzly days is PHENOMENAL, bloggable, even.
So we are wet and cold, but not at all miserable. It’s fun to be putting on so many clothes (though the novelty might wear off), and our hoods afford us the invisibility we were looking for yesterday!

BROKEN.
I got new sandals in Thailand and they fell apart within a month. Mum found a man on the side of the road in Laos, who looked like he might repair shoes so she asked him. And he did. I got new boots a couple of weeks ago in Vietnam and they’re falling apart already. So we went looking for a man on the side of the road. Only differences this time were we found ladies and instead of bright sunshine, there was pouring rain. Both times we waited under an umbrella. Thanks to that lady, I now have boots invisibly stitched, and even if the sole falls apart, they will hold together (just like my sandals have done).

CHOP.
After $1 haircuts in Cambodia, the Vietnamese one I wanted seemed far too pricey at $4. I decided China would certainly be cheaper, so I waited. This wet, grey afternoon provided the opportunity to whip around the corner to the hairdresser’s that we had noticed. Finding the hairdresser was easy; communicating what I wanted was not! The language barrier meant I had to rely on sign language – can you sign beyond “snip snip”?

There was a sign on the door saying 20 yuan – so I pointed to it questioningly, indicating my own hair being cut. Nodding heads all around seemed to confirm that was the price – there must have been at least eight or nine staff sitting around in the salon… all eyes glued on me! I was ushered to a seat, and was shown another card (all in Chinese, of course) with different prices, ranging from 15 yuan up to 50 yuan. Thinking it was just a confirmation of what I wanted, I pointed to the 20 yuan and indicated my hair to be cut. This seemed to get things underway… for the next half an hour I had my hair thoroughly washed, and then, bliss…. a head massage. Following this I was taken to the rinsing area, furnished with a comfy reclined lounger – followed by further bliss and another head massage, including shoulders and arms (oh yeah, a blow-dry was in there too). Maybe you also get this in NZ if you pay top dollar….but they certainly don’t give a head massage in the budget barbers I frequent. I thoroughly enjoyed it all, and struggled to stay awake. I had to decline the facial I *think* I was offered – maybe those baggy black eyes really DID look bad!

After all this, I finally got into the chair and a young guy with a fancy holster full of scissors stepped up. I again tried to indicate my basic requirements, just a trim all round thanks! These hairdressers clearly went to a different training school to the Cambodian crew. There, you had to be careful not to be shorn clean… today I had to ask three times to get the smallest amount cut off my mop. I also had to decline the palette of hair dye options I have been shown most times I’ve been to the hairdressers in recent times… hmmmm, those grey hairs again! No, thanks, I’ll stay natural! The hairdresser used an unusul style of cutting, which was certainly NOT fast. It was not until well over an hour later that I was again ushered to the hairwashing station, followed by another blowdrying, and then finally, we were done.

I went to pay and following the hand signals ended up having to pay 40 yuan – still only about $12 NZ – and I am not sure if the extra was for the massage, the hairwashing or just because I was a foreigner! Regardless, it was worth every cent – even if it did end up costing three times the Vietnamese cut.

toot toot

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009

by Rach
Nanning to Guilin, China

I’m not sure what the first class seats are like, because we bought “hard seats”. They were nice. Soft, even. And the train hardly appeared to move, it was so smooth – although the scenery did keep changing outside our window and Mr GPS indicated we were approaching 100km/hr. There was no clickety-clacking, no straining, no horn honking, no noise at all, no dirt (in fact, rubbish was twice collected, and toilets cleaned too (something that didn’t happen even once on our two day journey in Vietnam!) In under two hours we covered a distance that took us ALL DAY in a bus in Laos (no trains in that country). Good thing too, because there is a lot of track to cover in China. Five hours took us 2 centimetres on the map and we still have a 30cm ruler to zoom over before we are out of the country.

Apart from being fast, efficient, punctual, clean and comfortable, catching a Chinese train is a bit different to the other countries we’ve been in so far.
Tickets are presented and all baggage is x-rayed before you enter the waiting room, where queues of  people elbow their way to the gates. Tickets are checked a second time and the crowd continues its constant surge forwards. Ours did a left turn and up a flight of concrete stairs, across a bridge over the tracks and descended to the platform.
Carriages are numbered, seats allocated and people hustle to get on board. Little wonder – there’s no mucking about – the train leaves at the advertised time. We scrambled on and held up the instantly impatient queue as Rob tried to find our seats – upstairs or downstairs? Yes, the train was two-storeyed! Voices grew more anxious as fellow passengers were unable to pass our back-packed bodies. We had barely arranged our belongings in, on, under and around ourselves when the train pulled out of the station. Perfect timing!

from Jboy13’s journal:

The people on the train are very friendly. They all smile and say “Nee how”. They took Tgirl4 over to their seats and got her to sit on their knee and say her name, which she doesn’t really like, but ER2 went fine coz they were eating pumpkin seeds and she likes them.

papparazzi

Tuesday, February 17th, 2009
by the lady, who has given birth to eight full-term children ;-) Guilin, China All through Laos and Cambodia, people frequently compared New Zealand to China, asking, "Are you ALLOWED so many? Your country is not like China?" We had wondered what ... [Continue reading this entry]

what if you don’t understand?

Monday, February 16th, 2009
by one who has a BA in linguistics & is married to one who has his masters in the same, applied Yangmei - Nanning, China Standing in a queue at the Cambodia/Vietnamese border, we were chatting with a Vietnamese man. We ... [Continue reading this entry]

it’s old, go slowly

Sunday, February 15th, 2009
by Rach Yangmei, China

Founded during the Song Dynasty (960-1279 AD), the town of Yangmei burgeoned during the Ming Dynasty (1368-1644 AD) and reached its heyday during the Qing Dynasty (1636-1912 AD), when it became ... [Continue reading this entry]

the journey is half the adventure

Saturday, February 14th, 2009
by Rachael Nanning to Yangmei, China Yesterday's ticketing saga was good preparation for today....and Rob observes how cool-as-a-cucumber our kids are with turning up at a station having no idea how to get where we're going and just waiting patiently until ... [Continue reading this entry]

train day

Friday, February 13th, 2009
by Rach, who likes to know what's going on most of the time Nanning, China We'll just pop over to the train station and sort out tickets to Guilin. Steady on, not so fast! The train station is on the other side of ... [Continue reading this entry]

stark contrast

Thursday, February 12th, 2009
Hanoi, Vietnam to Nanning, China  At customs I wait at the back of the sideways-swelling queue until a British guy gives me my first Chinese culture lesson: you've got to be pushy - elbow your way to the front of the ... [Continue reading this entry]

South East Asia Summary

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009
TRANSPORT DETAILS Hours spent on long-haul trips: 212 Longest bus trip: 11 hours (with two twenty second stops and one 15 minute one) Longest boat trip: 2 days down the Mekong Longest train trip: 43 hours (Saigon to Hanoi) Favourite transport: elephant Types of transport:

Good-bye Vietnam

Wednesday, February 11th, 2009

Hanoi, Vietnam 

conical hats motorbikes beef noodle soup beach excursion long slow train journey rice paddies, rice paddies, rice paddies beautiful long silk dresses with deep side splits worn over pants mystical Halong Bay Most Amazing Couchsurfing Experience ethnological smorgasbord modernity meets old world spring rolls and doner kebabs ... [Continue reading this entry]