I know I said that going off of the beaten path general isn't worth it and that the path is beaten for a reason. I should ammend this and say that if you speak the language it is worth it because you can figure out what to do and just learn about people.

It is also worth it if you have some idea what to expect, don't have to invest a full day's bus ride for the unknown and have a good book.

I headed off to Mai Chau on the local bus. My first one in Vietnam. They have a really good and cost effective tourist system set up here so I don't expect I will be taking many local buses. I'd rather avoid the hassle and get to meet other travelers.

When I arrived at the bus station which was slightly outside of Hanoi everyone assumed I was going to a place called Nihm Bihn. I was the only westerner in sight. Everyone was trying to guide me assuming that I would then tip them.

I finally found my way to what appeared to be the right counter because there was a listing for Mai Chau above it. I asked for a ticket and the woman behind the counter directed me at the next window. I went to her and repeated myself and she directed me to the woman on the other side of the first woman.

I should clarify hear that while they were at different windows, they were actually sitting right next to each other and could overhear what I asked for and were conversing with each other while they sent me back and forth between them.

Finally, a nice man came out and walked me to my bus. Unfortunately, it wasn't leaving for another 2.4 hours. So I walked around the town for a bit. As is the case with the area around most bus stations, it wasn't very nice. I decided to buy some snacks. The woman tried to charge me over $6 for what I knew cost under $1. I laughed and made a that's ridiculous face and offered her what I thought it was worth and she accepted right away.

I headed back to the bus station where I read for a while until a bunch of people decided to sit right next to me and look over my shoulder which I found really annoying. I headed out to the bus to wait instead and I was greeted by the smell of urine. Couldn't I just sit on the bus and wait for it to leave? Soon after it did.

I arrived in Mai Chau at 4:30 and found a place to stay in a village called Ban Van. It was the only guest house in the village and I was the only westerner around. I was offered some tea and my host made up my room by pulling out a curtain, rolling out a mat with a sheet and blankets and hanging a mosquito net. The family would sleep on the other side of the curtain.

That evening, I requested for a vegetarian meal. I always think that is the safest bet. It is much easier to eat vegetables I don't like then meat. And, I've noticed that even though I eat chicken and beef, the quality just isn't there and I really just never find it very enjoyable.

When my hostess brought out my meal it was on a large silver tray. At 12 o'clock was a plate of french fries. Going clockwise were the best spring rolls I have had since I have been here- glass noodles, mushrooms and carrots. Next was a bowl of tofu with tomato and green onion and after that were white mushrooms with some sort of shredded green. In the center was a dipping sauce and I was also served rice. There was enough food for 3 people.

I didn't know what the proper etiquette was. Is it rude if I don't eat it all? Am I only supposed to eat a small protion and then the family will dig in? It sounded like the were eating elsewhere, so I dug in and since I had missed lunch, I ate enough for 2 people. It was delicious!

The next night's meal was too. It consited of steamed green beans, tofu balls with a crunchy outside, a cold carrot, parsley and vegi that was a cross between jicima and cucumber salad, a tomato and green onion omlette, steamed rice and sticky rice wrapped in a banana leaf. Delectable.

I spent my one day in Mai Chau roaming on the ridges between the rice fields and I rented a bike and went around to the different villages. I discovered that there were other villages that were more touristed then mine but I think only a few pairs of people actually got their without a tour so I felt good about my intrepidness (I know that is not a word).

I also spent a good bit of time reading Life of Pi. I really enjoyed it.

The next day I was on the 6 AM bus headed back to Hanoi.