I was going to make this an elaborate story, but I have tried and failed to write it a number of times. So instead I will just give the highlights in a list like form.

Decided to take the aptly named slow boat down the Mekong River from the northern border crossing between Thailand and Vietnam after hearing good things about it and reading an article that a friend had clipped from the NYT for me.

Was lucky enough to be on the more comfortable of the two boats. The second boat, which I was originally on, had benches barely big enough for two people and the person on the inside had no leg room due to a plank that ran under the benches for the legnth of the boat. The also could not stand up and stretch due to a low roof.

The ride the first daynwas eight hours. It was supposed to be beautiful scenery, and it was nice but not so breathtaking that it kept your attention for 8 hours. For the most part people read, slept and talked.

We arrived in Pakbang and had to scramble for rooms because we had heard that accommodations were limited and clean one's scarce. I had decided to share with Rick. At first, it sort of weirded me out to share a room with a strange guy, but after 8 hours on a boat together, I figured I could judge his character. I also came to the realization that I would never be sharing if I wouldn't share with a guy. I have only met 3 solo females in the past month and I don't think I would've enjoyed the company of two of them and one of them was heading to India.

The men were all offerred drugs- pot, cocaine and opium upon arrival. The women were not approached, but certainly could've gotten them if they chose to. At dinner, we were offered a shot of something clear and being the only female at the table, I was given the honor of going first. It wasn't too bad though it burned a bit going down.

The next day Liverpool Matt, who I had dined with the evening before the boat ride after inviting myself to a table that he eventually also invited himself to, had a story to tell. It was dark when he went to go to sleep and a guy who worked at the hotel turned a light on for him. He said, "thanks" and the guy said, "what are you going to do for me".

Ah, excuse me. What exactly do you mean? He offered him a T-shirt. The guy said no. He offerred him a book about the Evertonian Football Club. The guy said no. The guy then picked up his brand new North Face jacket and said he wanted it. This time Liverpool Matt said no. Then the guy gets out his cell phone and says that he is going to call the police and tell them that Matt had drugs if he didn't give it to him.

Congratulations. Hope your new coat keeps you warm and dry.

Liverpool Matt pointed him out the next day. He was a sinister looking guy. Outside of Pakbang, everyone has been nice.

We went to get back on the boat for the next days journey. It was a different boat then either of the two from the day before and they decided to put both boat loads of people on this one boat. Even though some people had opted not to take the boat the second day, it was still a bit cramped.

And boring.

I broke out the Yahtzee which killed quite a bit of time. So did 20 questions.

Finally, we arrived in Luang Prabang (LP) and rain started coming down in sheets. Mud was flowing down the hill we had to walk up to reach the main road. Jaime (a guy who spells his name like a girl) who had entertained us with many stories of India on the boat, ran ahead and hired a tuk tuk to take him around town looking for a place. Accommodations are also hard to come by in LP when the slow boat arrives. He came back and 6 of use piled in. Jaime had found a great place to stay.

All in all, this worked out to be a good trip for me because of the social opportunity and because I met a compatible traveling companion who I expect I will continue to travel with throughout Laos. However, I would not recommend this trip.

The popularity that Lonely Planet and word of mouth have given it has helped put money in the hands of bad people who are not even remotely concerned with tourists having a positive experience.