Luxor: Karnak and Luxor Temples
So, I’m currently sitting in a cigarette-smoke filled internet cafe in Luxor, typing on the world’s grodiest keyboard. It’s seriously So, so nasty and hard to type.
This morning we went to the train station at 5:30am to catch the 3-hour train to Luxor. Man, I love trains. They are so relaxing. You can get up and walk around or just sit and stare at the scenery. A much better option than like the day before when we were in a cramped minivan all day.
It was interesting because during the entire ride north to Luxor, the scenery was green fields and lots of different crops with people working in the fields with their donkeys. A stark contrast to the straight-up desert we saw on the way to Abu Simbel. As they say, the Nile gives life!!
I haven’t said anything about the prices here. As you’d expect, everything is very cheap. I LOVE traveling in cheap countries!! You don’t even have to worry about what anything costs because you know it isn’t much. The 3 hour train in 1st class today cost about $8. We had meals that cost us $13 for both of us. Our first hotel was $15 a night, tonight it is like $60 a night. Jim had a big beer that was like $1.50. Love it.
Luxor is known as the hassle capital of Egypt. Aswan was pretty bad, but it didn’t bother me that much because, like I said before, they are good humored and never get nasty or angry. When we got off the train, we were hit hard with several guys trying to get us to take their cab or go to their hotel. We actually called our hotel, the Royal House, yesterday and arranged a pick-up. Sure enough, there was a little old guy outside holding a sign with Jim’s name. We got in his beat-up car (including his seat belt, which looked like it had been cut and tied back together). A car was blocking us in, so he and a cop put it in reverse and moved it out of our way. We headed off to the hotel.
We settled in then headed out to get a cab to the Karnak Temple. We ran into the same guy who’d given us a ride from the train station. He was a smiley old guy named Hussein and we organized that he’d take us to Karnak, wait 2 hours, then take us to Luxor Temple and back for 60 pounds. We probably could have bargained less but it seemed like a small sum already – around $11 maybe. We also organized that he’d take us to the Valley of the Kings tomorrow.
He took us to Karnak around noon and Jim and agreed it was one of the coolest things we’ve ever seen. It looked like it was built by giants – everything was SO HUGE!! The most awe-inspiring part was as you first walked in and there is a huge area filled with the tallest, most giant columns you’ve ever seen – maybe some of the biggest stuff ever I’ve seen EVER. It was crazy. It was filled with a lot of tour groups, but by 1:30pm, they were mysteriously gone and we had the place nearly to ourselves. I venture to say I liked it more than Abu Simbel, maybe also because we weren’t so rushed. Two hours was a perfect amount of time to see it all and take a few minutes to sit and stare.
We met Hussein out in the parking lot at 2pm as planned and he drove us to Luxor Temple. As usual, we hadn’t eaten a thing all day. This is partly due to our laziness, the fact that many things are closed because of Ramadan, and it doesn’t seem like we have time. We found a McDonald’s across the street and GORGED. I think the guy even laughed at how much food we got (partly by accident – we didn’t mean to order so much!). Funnily, the third floor of the McDo had a great view of Luxor Temple. We discussed briefly skipping it because there’s no way it could be as cool as Karnak, and of course we were feeling hot and lazy.
We ended up going to Luxor Temple and were glad we did. It was also awesome even after seeing Karnak.
Look how tiny I look next to these huge structures!
There weren’t many people there. I think most tour groups do things early in the morning so we missed them. There was another obelisk and more giant statues of sitting figures. One cool part showed where they were restoring a Roman painting that had been painted OVER the Egyptian carvings way back in the day. It was cool – you’ll need to see the photo.
Afterwards we walked back to the hotel, took a quick dip in the small rooftop pool, showered, and took a nap. We had a late dinner in the hotel and it was quite bad.
Few things to talk about:
Tourist police. Here in Luxor the tourist police are everywhere. We think they are around to stop people from hassling tourists. In Karnak, we got a few guys who wanted to show us things for baksheesh (tips). We saw a tourist police come running and we think it made them scatter. Also the touts leave you alone when they are around. Thank goodness, I can’t imagine how bad it would be otherwise.
Tomorrow we head to the Valley of the Kings to see some tombs. Early the next morning we fly to Cairo and spend two nights in a very nice hotel. Then we fly to Sharm el-Sheikh and stay in another nice hotel and finally get to swim and snorkel. Jim has gift cards he can use on Travelocity so that’s how we got to stay at resorts, just like rich Americans!
Luxor Temple Action Shot
Click for larger
Tags: Egypt, Petra, Jerusalem 2007, Travel
Kelly
I like reading about your adventures. Mo’pics. It took me a few tries figuring out that the code goes in the little box below, not right here.
Sounds like you’re on quite an adventure. Did you bring your Nephrotite costume with you? HAAA! nrnrHave fun!
Thanks for all the cool insight –more pictures!!! Glad it is such a great trip
Kelly, I am enjoying reading about your adventures in Egypt. It sounds like you are havin ga great time. Also, I laughed when you mentioned the “I don’t give a s&%@ ” touristy look. It kind of cracked me up when I viewed the photos. Well anyway, I hope you enjoy the rest of your trip. I will keep reading as you post more!
thanks Marti!
CONGRATULATIONS ON THE NEW BABY!!